A few years back when Ti parts first came out, a few of the members of the shooting team my shop sponsored wanted to get them. We started out with just the firing pins and went on one part at a time while running drills with a timer. There was a slight difference to times after all the Ti parts were in, and the shooters accuracy improved a small amount. One could also argue that this was due to the repeated practice. Not a scientific test by any means.
What I found with my personal shooting was that the Ti Firing pin with a Ti strut & Hammer would put the bullet hole much closer to where the dot was when the shot broke. Switching back to the steel parts reversed this instantly.
If you are a fair shooter now, the difference gained might not be noticed. To get the full benifit IMHO you may need to go all out with the Ti stuff.
45 you might be ok
in Super 9x23 and 40 you will have primer flow.
the firing pin is 40% lighter but only travels about .040 anyway.
Yes the Ti strut, upper plunger and hammer may cut the lock time but the ti firing pin is not worth the loss of reliability.
Primer flows into the fp hole and shears off when the gun comes out of battery. the shear pc. blocks the next hit.
In order to prevent blown primers or primers flowing back into the firing pin hole, the firing pin needs a certain amount of momentum (mass times speed). With the low mass of the titanium firing pin, the momentum is not sufficient.
The main reason some makers are using titanium firing pins is that they are too light to fire in the CA drop tests, and installing the Ti pin is cheaper than installing a firing pin block.
A lot of folks replace those pins with the regular steel one for greater reliability and fewer problems.