[katonahjohn]

I keep some needed size hex wrenches in my gun bag. Small screws I tighten with my fingers on the short end of the wrench without a great deal of pressure. If I notice a loosened screw then a quick tightening job. Blue lok tite for scope rings/bases and grip screws. Receiver bolts use the long side of the wrench and a little more pressure. Primitive but I haven't lost or stripped a screw yet...knock on wood..

 

[roaniecowpony]

This issue with grip screw torque is the grip panels themselves are of various hardeness. Appropriate torque for G10 may be way too much for mahogany or even walnut of the softer variety. We're not going for adequate shank stretch here like a headbolt on your engine. Get a feel for fasteners in various applications where lighter than "shank stretch" is called for.

Don't overthink this. Either get some temporary thread locker or use the "O"ring method. Snug them up and be done.

 

[sculptor]

We recommend 5 in/lbs of torque for grip screws when using the Challis grip bushing system. The same should hold true for other bushings when using grip screw O-rings. It is very common for grip screws to be torqued much higher than needed, leading to broken screws and crushed wooden grips. Cranking the screw tighter will not prevent them from coming loose, but O-rings will.

For those without a good feel for proper torque, we sell a Hex Grip Screw Driver that is just the right size. Large enough to get the needed torque, and small enough that it is almost impossible to over-torque. Any similar sized hex driver should do the job.

 

[snd]

I use a torque wrench for my precision rifle fasteners, lug nuts and so on. For other less critical fasteners I don't. For grip screws, I tend to tighten with an allen wrench only as much as I can holding the short side ...

 

[mikejr]

Its odd how some of my 1911's will get loose grip screws and others don't. I haven't figured out what the difference is. On the ones that I do have an issue with I just use a bit of locktite on them.

Never tried this O ring trick. First I am hearing of it. Where does the O ring go? Between the grip panel and the frame or under the head of the screw against the grip panel?

 

[Hopknockious]

I tighten my grip screws until they are tight. $60 for a torque calibrated
screwdriver so that I can tighten them just right (when I don't even have
a torque spec) seems rather decadent to me. An ingenious solution to
a non-existent problem.

Use your Wheeler FAT to tighten the screws until they are
tight.

Joe

This!! What ever happened to the art of hand tightening something?

 

[Jfleisher]

Its odd how some of my 1911's will get loose grip screws and others don't. I haven't figured out what the difference is. On the ones that I do have an issue with I just use a bit of locktite on them.

Never tried this O ring trick. First I am hearing of it. Where does the O ring go? Between the grip panel and the frame or under the head of the screw against the grip panel?

Under the head of the screw, against the grip panel. Found the O-rings pretty cheap on Amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/1-5x3mm-Metr...+OD,+1.5mm+Cross+Section+(+50+Pack+/+Pieces+)

 

[drail]

It goes between the screw head and the grip. Just about any big Home Depot type store has the O rings.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I think the grip panels that have more clearance on the bushings may contribute to the grip panel moving and working the screws loose. I would bet that glass/epoxy bedding the bushing counterbore of the grip panel wound end the screw loosening issue. Not common knowledge, but I've been wrong before.

The O ring goes under the head of the screw.

 

[yeti]

O rings work beautifully. With all the G10 in use now, O rings should be standard equipment. Gently seated + 1/8th of a turn usually does it...1/4 turn at most. Go easy. You can always snug them up a bit more if they get loose.

 

[mikejr]

Going to stop by and get a few O rings and give them a try. Thanks guys!

 

[NoExpert]

log man's advice in post #13 above is a good way to solve the problem. I would add a washer between the o-ring and the top of the bushing. The reason is that if just the o-ring is used, it can get "squished" into the bushing slots. Just drop the washer into the grip panel hole fist, then insert the screw with the o-ring on it. Tighten just enough to feel the o-ring being compressed. When removing the grip panels, just loosen the screws so that the panel can be lifted off the receiver. Do not remove the screw from the grip panel. That keeps everything together so you don't have to search for dropped washers

The parts can be purchased inexpensively here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90135A431

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90135A431

 

[BillD]

Ever notice once a simple fix is found, some folks just have to make it more complicated?

 

[log man]

Ever notice once a simple fix is found, some folks just have to make it more complicated?

Yes, :biglaugh:!!

LOG

 

[NoExpert]

Ever notice how the same people continue to comment on other's posts without offering anything positive?

 

[log man]

Ever notice how the same people continue to comment on other's posts without offering anything positive?

Yes, that happens as well as those complaining of nothing positive. Conversation and understanding.

So consider, my interpretation of four conditions of a bolt a holding a plate down, first only a bolt, holds tight, but under vibration may loosen. Next a flat washer, and bolt holds the same, but with perhaps a more uniform tension, but also will loosen with some vibrations. Next a flat washer, split lock washer and bolt, this will hold better to the plate, but can still loosen under some circumstances. And lastly the split lock washer and bolt, this holds best as the lock washer grips both the plate and bolt from turning loose.

The suggestion of the use of an o-ring is similar to the lock washer and bolt.
With a positive addition, as the grip screw is tightened the o-ring will squash out, expand, and better secure the grip while gripping the bushing and screw underside, with minimum stacking.

Adding a washer may extend o-ring life, but the washers cost four times as much, and reduce the locking feature of the o-ring gripping the top of the bushing, and add to the stack.

I only use square bottom pin cover grip panels so must remove them every time I'm doing much. The o-rings do get chafed after a number of ass/dis-assembles, but at the price is hardly a concern, I mean 25 full sets, (100) for 6$. I have used these for quite a while now and still have plenty of the first package of 100. They should be considered a consumable, just as any damaged split lock washers should be replaced.

So...........okay?

LOG

 

[NoExpert]

So...........okay?

Yes! Excellent post!

I personally enjoy any opportunity to learn, and I have learned a lot from you previous posts.

 

[sculptor]

Its odd how some of my 1911's will get loose grip screws and others don't. I haven't figured out what the difference is. On the ones that I do have an issue with I just use a bit of locktite on them.

Never tried this O ring trick. First I am hearing of it. Where does the O ring go? Between the grip panel and the frame or under the head of the screw against the grip panel?

Generally the problem with loose screws is worse when using heavy grips, such as G10, ivory or aluminum. Wood grips are better because they are lighter and the friction between the screw head and the grip is greater than with heavier and harder materials. Screws almost never loosen from rubber grips.

Traditionally the O-ring is used on the grip screw. Depending on the size of the O-ring it is between the head of the grip screw and the shoulder of the counterbore, or between the head of the screw and the top of the bushing. The latter is preferred because the screws are able to fully seat and not stand proud of the grips.

The Challis System uses a special bushing that has a groove for an O-ring that is positioned between the flange of the bushing and the counterbore in the bottom of the grip. The photo below shows a cutaway of the assembled Challis System. These bushings have a hexagonal head that makes them easier to install and remove.

 

[brickeyee]

More like inch-ounces.

50 threads per inch.

Nominally 25 thousandth from major diameter to minor diameter (thread 'depth').

 

[Magnumite]

"Edit: 90% of the fasteners on cars is not critical. A torque wrench is not used as often as you would think."

And not as often as they should be used.