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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have finally taken the next step in 1911 ownership: complete disassembly. It is a remarkably simple, yet elegant design. I am glad I finally took it apart to see how it all works.

The only video I have seen on reassembly is the Barnhart Burner Series. He over-lubes (admittedly) his pistols. When he puts it back together EVERYTHING gets oil.

All of the other resources I have been able to find about disassembly and reassembly are easy to follow, but none mention lubrication.

Should I just put it all back together dry, and then lube according to the owner's manual (barrel, lugs, slide rails, one drop between hammer and frame, etc.)?

...or...

do I oil the pins, sear, hammer, disconnecter, etc as it goes back together?

It's funny how you don't realize you have a question about something until your gun is in 20 pieces on the table!
 

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I wouldn't say I lube everything, but everything gets a very light coat of oil to protect against corrosion.
 

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I usually put a light film of oil on my fingers and rub everything when putting it back together. I will also put a thick film on the outside of the barrel and on the rails. When the gun is completly stripped I will clean it with brake clean. When it is fully back together I spray it with sheath and wipe it down with a silicone cloth.

Jim
 

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I have two little idiosyncracies which have served me well so far, and I would like to share them with you.

Even though I can literally detail strip and reassemble a 1911 in the dark (very slowly, and yes, a bet was involved), I ALWAYS perform the basic safety function checks on the pistol after reassembly. (thorough check of the thumb safety, disconnector, and grip safety function).

The other idiosyncracy is perhaps borderline oddball, but it gives me peace of mind.

I never carry a perfectly clean 1911- I always cycle at least two shots through a freshly detail stripped pistol before I will carry it.

This ensures that the pistol works as expected, and also ensures that I have not somehow turned it into a Class Three weapon.

Just little things I do to try to keep that illegitimus Murphy at bay as much as possible ;)

Congratulations on your new found self-sufficiency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I agree 100%, Archer.

I did all the function checks (safety, and trigger reset, etc)

I also plan on stopping by the range at lunch to put a few rounds through it. I figure on shooting a few, then running a bore snake through the barrel when finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Took the Kimber out to the range at lunch today. Couldn't help but shoot 200 rounds! Damn, I couldn't control myself. I am pretty close to the 600 round mark by now...if not there.

Oh...not a single malfunction. I am beginning to really like this gun.
 

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Archer said:
I never carry a perfectly clean 1911- I always cycle at least two shots through a freshly detail stripped pistol before I will carry it.
A sound practice! ;)
 

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I had a gunsmith build a hardball gun for me, a 1911 National Match pistol that shoots like a laser and has NEVER choked at all. These are the lubrication tips he gave me:

After cleaning:

1. Heavy coat of oil on the outside of the barrel.
2. One drop in each slide lug recess.
3. One drop of oil on barrel cradle--where the back of the barrel behind the link assembly is supported.
4. One drop on top of the disconnector.
5. After assembly, cock the hammer, and put two drops down the frone of the hammer pivot. This lubes the sear, sear notch and the pins.
6. Lock the slide back. Two drops down each slide rail. Cycle slide gently two or three times to work the oil in.

That's it!

And, for ease of cleaning between detailing the pistol, I use the Dunk-Kit from Cylinder and Slide. You can use this, or make up a batch of Ed's Red--because that's what it is (I think!).
 
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