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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi; I'm new here. I've exhausted my Google searching, and this seemed the best forum to make inquiry. It's quite possible my concern has been discussed before, but I haven't found it specifically and anything similar has mostly been in the context of trigger jobs, spring replacements, or even overhauling the ILS. These aren't options I'm looking to consider with the limited number of rounds I have through the pistol to this point, but I am at a loss. Anyways...

The background is ...I just purchased my first Springfield 1911 (mil-spec varietal) -- it's my third 1911 (also own Fusion's Reaction and a Rock Island Nickel) and it's my sixth Springfield (all others being poly strikers, though) -- and I've got a little over two boxes of S&B FMJ through the new 1911, and a dozen GECO HPs just to test its willingness to feed 'em.

The issue is ...the trigger just doesn't feel right. I was driving tacks (pardon the Fuddism) with both the Fusion and RIA out of the box, but the SA trigger isn't nearly as smooth, and almost has that "crunchy" feel of a poly striker compressing the firing pin spring. This threw me off, partly because dry firing felt smooth enough, but the break isn't crisp and every third or fourth round would hit paper a little outside the 8" inner ring at a mere 7 yards, off-handed. I threw up a block rest between the baffles and was able to achieve 3-4" groups from the same distance, but that does not seem acceptable to me.

So, the question is ...is this kind of trigger "crustiness" unique to the break-in period of a Springfield mil-spec, and will it smooth out with persistence? Or am I looking at a fitment issue of some kind? I've rented and fired and tried others' SA 1911s, and plenty other assorted 1911s, and I've never experienced anything quite like the issue described. The only other experience I've had with factory new 1911s are the two others I own, and with each I was putting up respectable groupings off-handed at 20 yards right away -- and ever since.

Any thoughts, insights, recommendations... all greatly appreciated!
 

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I don't think it normal.

Have you detail disassembled it and examined the parts? Perhaps there is some grit or debris in the works that needs to be cleaned out.

With it disassembled you might see how smooth the trigger is in the frame. If the hammer - sear is causing the problem you may want to talk it over with Springfield.
 

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You need to have a knowledgeable smith perform a trigger job. That may involve replacing a few parts. Springfield will just tell you that it's "good enough" and it meets their specs. It is a standard production gun and the pull quality is NOT going to improve with "breaking in".
 

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If you can measure the trigger pull you can discuss it with SA as they have a spec and are pretty well known for standing by their guns. Too though the GI and MilSpec are pretty much their bottom-line guns and in that way you're only going to get dropin parts from a person that assembled the gun, i.e.., it's not fitted.
 

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i had a trigger from a different company that was like that. it had a 'problem' sear new out of the box.. vipers suggestion about the trigger gauge is a good one. then i'd call springfield. all the other options are good ones too, but maybe, just maybe you can get a springfield trigger done in the shop. have them pin the ejector while they are at it. best, james
 

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Just call Springfield , tell them what is happening , Then after you get a label send it to Springfield with a detailed note explaining your issues and a phone number .
and let them check it out and fix whats needed .
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All good thoughts and suggestions; thanks, everyone! I've certainly tried my hand at warranty support with other manufacturers before, but never Springfield.. so, here's to finding out just how good they say their warranty is.

I'll strip it down first, though, check for debris, hit it with canned air, and inspect the sear (although I wouldn't be able to detect a minor, subtle defect that might contribute). I did strip it initially, and thoroughly cleaned out "dustiness" rather than a light coat of grease (or even cosmoline) that I might've otherwise expected, then lubed it up liberally. I also replaced the stock side slabs when reassembling, but I can't imagine anything got into the works while I did all this, but stranger things have certainly happened.

Thanks again, everyone; very much appreciated! If for nothing else than assuring me the mechanics are indeed an issue and I'm not out of my tree... :)
 

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You need to have a knowledgeable smith perform a trigger job. That may involve replacing a few parts. Springfield will just tell you that it's "good enough" and it meets their specs. It is a standard production gun and the pull quality is NOT going to improve with "breaking in".
^^^^this.

Have a good Smith do a quality action job with tool steel parts, my preference is to use an EGW fire control system. You’ll notice a night abd day difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Personally I wouldn’t waste the time sending it back to SA their customer service and support is nothing like it once was, pretty much crud these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Based on positive personal experience I recommend NicTaylor00s videos a lot. In an internet full of bad-dangerous instruction Nic's videos stand out.
Here is one of a series of 1911 improvements (watch the whole series). These instructions will not match a trigger job by a competent gunsmith but they yield real, safe, noticeable improvements a handy fella can achieve.
 

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Super K,

As this is new or even used I would make a list of every problem even minor ones.


Call Springfield CS.

Likely they will give you free shipping and warranty work.

I would do that to have a baseline working 1911.
If you should change any parts later on, then you keep the original OEM parts for spares or resale.
 

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Based on positive personal experience I recommend NicTaylor00s videos a lot. In an internet full of bad-dangerous instruction Nic's videos stand out.
Here is one of a series of 1911 improvements (watch the whole series). These instructions will not match a trigger job by a competent gunsmith but they yield real, safe, noticeable improvements a handy fella can achieve.
My issue is that one cannot polish anything without removing material, metal or otherwise…
Joe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to follow up, I never ended up contacting Springfield. I ran another handful of boxes through it, stripping and cleaning between each ~100 rounds or so, and using canned air in and around the trigger housing each time. The "crunchiness" and inconsistency of the trigger pull began to fade through this process. It became less and less apparent after each outing, and although I wouldn't say it's an A+ squeeze yet, it's vastly improved. Perhaps there was minuscule debris in the spring or elsewhere that found its way in during production or while sitting on a warehouse shelf for five years -- I sure can't figure it. I sure wouldn't've thought it would "break in" and work its issues out, as another poster suggested it wouldn't. So, I just don't know. My Fusion Reaction was always a smooth operator, but my more comparable RIA mil-spec GI still wins out, out of the box, compared to the SA trigger. I guess I'll just keep doing what I'm doing and hope it smooths out even more over time.

That's all I got -- thanks, again, to everyone for offering up your insights!
 

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Usually what actually happens when you just keep shooting it that your finger and your brain's perception just becomes used to a lousy trigger. ( it is amazing what people can get "used to") It's not going to improve just by shooting it. I have seen this time after time. If someone were to hand you a gun with a finely tuned trigger the difference would be obvious. Poorly set up triggers do not "break in", trust me.
 

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Use just knocked the highspots off any factory grinding and honing. As you have indicated a good trigger lends credence to the pistol. Good lick with your blaster.
 
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