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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, after all this reading about the new WWII, I went and played with one finally and I must say I was impressed at how simple and to the point this gun is.

the greenish parkerized finish, the GI sights, the brown plastic grips...almost reminds me of my old and first 1911...the Norinco.
Difference is this WWII has a parkerized(black)barrel/bushing.

I think tomorrow I'll go back and buy the damned thing...as if I really needed it:rolleyes:

couple things I want to do to it...minor things.

1). Grips. Probably wood, double diamond type...I'll see what I can find in the used pile of crap most dealers have in the back of the store.

2) Trigger job. I felt the trigger and it feels like what...6-7 lbs. and pretty sloppy(as opposed to my Kimber Tactical's)
I love the shorty trigger and want to keep it, but want someone to work it to around 4 lbs. and crisp. I'm in the CT area...anyone you guys can reccomend? I can also ship the gun, but I'm thinking budget here...it's why I'm buying a GI 1911 in the first place.

Maybe...
3)bushing or something to improve the accuracy of the gun. Probably not needed I know but...

I'd also like to get rid of that stupid lock mechanism on the back strap...do I simply swap it with another rounded main spring housing?

cmon dudes, gimme some ideas...I'm all worked up about this thing...don't let me down.:D
 

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Dont know of any smiths in your area, but

As for the ILS Just ignore it. It doesnt do anything, unless you use the key and lock it. If you want to permanently diable it, you can just get new guts for a standard MSH and the top plunger will not allow the ILS system to engage. If the looks of it really bother you, then you can buy a regualr MSH and new guts. However, you'll likely have to have it refinished, as almost all after market ones are either blued, SS, or black plastic. You'd probably want SA to parkerize it for you too, so it will be more likely to match the tone of the rest of the gun.

#3 - You can get any number of aftermarket bushings. I think you'll need a reamer etc to get it to fit the barrel properly, and then some way to fit the outside of the bushing to the inside of the barrel. You may consider one of the Kart Easy-Fit kits. The bushing is pre-fit to the barrel and not so oversized on the outside that you can't hand fit it. They sell a $40 tool kit to do the fitting, which is much cheaper than the tools you'd need to fit a standard aftermarket barrel. Plus the Kart barrels are in-the-white steel, so after its fit, you can cold blue it (or have it hot blued) to get back to the original look of the GI pistol. A lot of the other aftermarket barrels are stainless which won't blue.

Hope this helps!

-Brian
 

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Piggybacking on jedi's post

2. If you know how to detail strip the pistol then can most certainly improve the trigger pull and feel at home, quite easily. Simply stoning any casting flaws from the hammer, disconnector, and sear will help tremendously. Polishing the sides of the trigger stirrup will help as well. As long as you stay away from the engagement surfaces on the sear you "should" be able to perform all this pretty safely, and easily in an afternoon I might add. Use a white Arkansas stone, light pressure, plenty of oil, and go slowly, checking your progress frequently. I'm in no way a pistolsmith but I was able to dramatically improve the feel and quality of my Mil-spec trigger by using the above method.

If you want to get rid of the ILS system all you need is a Smith & Alexander arched blued MSH, mainspring cap, and mainspring retaining pin. All available through Brownells. The MSH is blue but it's a very very close match to the Parkerizing. While you're placing your order through Brownells you may as well order a 23 lb mainspring as well. It'll help lighten your trigger pull somewhat.
 

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You may find that you have to enlarge the bushing holes of the grips you put on this pistol a tiny bit. An exacto knife should do the trick. Some folks have swapped the bushings for Wilson's, but I just altered the grips a bit.
 

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If its the newer style fram you should not have to do anything to the grips. I had some grips and they fit right on. As for accuracy it was just as accurate as my TLE I use to have. Cannot believe I only paid 400.00 for this and shot the same as my 700.00 gun.:(

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
looks like y ou got the early model here with the "sqared" front frame strap...

the thumb safety on my GI looks a tad different also...yours has the early 1911 look.

those look like them orig. Colt diamond cut walnut grips from CDNN...nice.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
shooter,
i was referring to xavier's GI.

you'll see his photo link in my post.

here's my sweetheart:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
don't you worry...
i got a set of cheapo CDNN factory Colt walnut double diamond cut grips for a whopping $19.95 on order this morning. They'll be on it by Tue.

very similar looking to xavier's grips in his photo.
also bought a couple wilsons 8 rnd. mags w/thin steel pad.

So, grips, mags and a brand spankin' new Highnoon inside the pants holster and I'm still under $475 total. :cool:

can't wait to put it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
how'd the factory mag work by the way?
are they decent, any problems? how much does springfield get for new ones?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
shooter,
where did you buy your Wilsons mags?

i got mine used, but want to get a couple more...i prefer the black bodied 8 rounders with thin steel pad...whatever part# that is...
 
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