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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a RIA Government A-1 .45 and when you pull the trigger it stays pulled or very slowly creeps back where it can be pulled again. It had been working fine and this problem just showed up after carrying it to a gun show. When leaving I had them cut the zip tie off and the guy mentioned the hammer wouldn't drop. Didn't pay it much mind until I got to the car. Soon realized the trigger was all the way in and I had to pull it back out to firing position. Then it dropped the hammer just fine but it stuck again. I'm not familiar enough to start disassembling things but I did spray some oil on the trigger and the parts you can see below the feed ramp with the slide open. Can't say it really made any difference. It will return most times when pulled but does so very sluggishly and sometimes still sticks. Anyone else ever run into this problem? Wondering if the trigger assembly is somehow crudded up and it just needs cleaned or if a spring problem? Would appreciate any advice.
 

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Wondering if the trigger assembly is somehow crudded up and it just needs cleaned or if a spring problem? Would appreciate any advice.
could be either one or both

if you're not comfortable with a detail strip, call RIA and send it back for them check out and tune/adjust.
or have a knowledgeable armorer or pistolsmith check it out.

Fire control systems are not things rookies should monkey with


..L.T.A.
 

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Agreed.

If you can do a detail strip (well, and re-assemble), see if the sear spring (the three-leaf deal in the rear of the grip) has been damaged somehow, or simply jumped from the proper place.
One of the things that three-leaf spring does is trigger return.

Once you're that far in, you may as well pull out the trigger as well and check it out, as well as its travel path.

This could be as simple as a lead shaving (or zip-tie fragment) stuck on the trigger bow.
Or a damaged trigger assembly.
Or a damaged leaf spring.
(those aren't too terribly expensive to replace, and RIA would probably send you parts free)

If you're NOT comfortable with having all the parts of your gun spread out neatly on a paper towel in front of you - call Armscor in Nevada, they'll fix you up.
(but you can do it, I promise - Armscor even put out detail strip videos on YouTube, which are pretty good. There are other guides available free as well, watch through once, then tackle following along)
 

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Anything is possible, how was the tie wrapped in the pistol? through the Magwell then out the top of the slide? was it real tight?
I would tear it down, inspect all parts, then clean inside of the frame.
sounds to me like your Disconnector could be bent, just a little......Maybe.:scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys I really appreciate the advice. I'm pretty sure the sear spring is weak. I pulled the grips off and the just stuck my finger inside the mag well and the spring is very easy to depress. Not much tension to it at all. I got it to where the trigger returns reliably but it still moves pretty weakly. I'm going to give Armscor a call and see what they say. Again, I truly appreciate all the good advice. Many thanks. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I contacted Armscor. They sent me an email and said to mail my 1911 in to them in a Fed Ex box. My question is, do I have do go through a FFL licensed dealer to mail it? They made it sound like I just put it in the box, with the shipping label they'd send, and send it off with Fed Ex. Never had to send a handgun in for repair before so I've no idea of the legalities involved.
 

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Put it in a FedEx box with the label they sent you. You are good to go, no FFL needed as it is in transit to the manufacturer.
 

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If they sent you PICKUP Tag, they will PAY both ways....remember it may take several days to get to NV. they work on pistols in the order they come in. may take from 3 to 30 days. don't get in any hurry, some of the folks MAY go home for the holidays. home for them is in the Philippine Islands. :D
 
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