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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With a new (less than 3 months old) Kimber Custom Classic, how can one tell whether it's a Type I or Type II?

Does the difference really matter?
 

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It will say "II" on the slide


The difference between them is that the Type 2 has the Firing Pin safety, activated by the Grip Safety, the Type does not have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"The difference between them is that the Type 2 has the Firing Pin safety, activated by the Grip Safety"

What does that mean though?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Apparently I'm looking at a Type I model. It has a grip safety, obviously, so how does the firing pin safety operate?

Thanks.
 

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Bacchus,

I too was confused about the new safety thingamajigger, but Kevinch explained it several posts down:

Originally posted by Kevinch:
The II models have a firing pin safety, the type that allows the hammer to hit the firing pin after it has been deactivated.

In a Colt 80 Series gun, the safety is deativated when the trigger is pulled completely to the rear. That's why a lot of people prefer the 70 Series guns; the claim is the 80 Series safety adversely affects the trigger pull.

Kimber is using a similar system, but it is deactivated by depressing the grip safety and since it has nothing to do with the trigger, is said not to affect the trigger pull in any way.
Here's my Custom II:





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~ ScorpioVI
http://tacticalpursuits.com
 

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I own a Custom Eclipse II (shown below) that has the infamous firing pin safety. Since this model has an adjustable trigger, I was able to tune it down and remove creep, now its crisp and just right. Out of the box, trigger was 4lbs - after 400 rds. of hardball ammo it is now 3.5lbs




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"Ain't nothin' like a finely-tuned 1911..."
 

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Originally posted by Bacchus:
Apparently I'm looking at a Type I model. It has a grip safety, obviously, so how does the firing pin safety operate?

Thanks.
Well, if your Kimber just says Custom, or whatever, and not Custom II, then it is definately a "Pre" model.

Beginning late last year, Kimber started shipping the Series 2 to the PRK, as that was the one that was submitted for testing, and approved here.

They have gradually been converting all the production, and Custom Shop models over to the Series 2 format.

Scorpio, Kevinch is partly right, and partly wrong...

Anyway, the Firing Pin safety block prevents the Firing Pin from moving forward, and extending out the breechface, or in other words, striking a primer of a chambered round.

To allow the Firing Pin to be able to strike a primer, the FP Safety Block must be pushed up, into the slide. When this is done, the Firing Pin can travel forward.

Moving the FP Safety Block is done by levers in the S80 that move when contacted by the rear of the trigger bow. On a Kimber II, it is done by a rod that is pushed up, when contacted by the Grip Safety extension that blocks the trigger bow.

Glock_Racer... FWIW... That little allen screw on Trigger on your Eclipse is only an Overtravel adjustment. It does nothing for tuning how crisp the trigger, or for how heavy the trigger is, just how far back the bow can travel, so as not to damage the Sear or Hammer Hook when a custom trigger job has been done.
 

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Ditto

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"Ain't nothin' like a finely-tuned 1911..."
 
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Somebody please post some pics of the Series II parts and their relationships to one another. Thanks!

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Guns don't kill people,
People kill people!
 
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