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Discussion Starter #1
Debated hijacking another thread to ask these since there's one similar, but decided that would be bad form.

So here's what I was wondering:

1) What are the pluses and minus of using an 8-round Wilson mag (i.e. it's not flush so it impacts conceal carry, but what if it's your backup mag?)?

2) Since it's a single action, I want to carry a round in the chamber and just ease the hammer down. That way it's just cock and fire. But the manual that came with the gun warns that easing the hammer down can negatively impact the trigger pull. What's up? Is this a serious concern?

Appreciate any help. Thanks.

Douglas
 

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IMO

To answer your questions in my opinion.

1. You can use an 8 round mag for a backup or a carry. You will want the mag to have a base plate designed for the ultra carry to eliminate and damage from over insertion. You can order the mag with the base plate from Wilson.

2. I would not recommend dropping the hammer on a loaded round. The 1911 is designed to be carried cocked and locked and is much safer then attempting to drop the hammer on a live round. If you are uncomfortable with this carry, you can carry with an empty chamber. With a little practice you should be able to chamber a round on the draw as fast as cocking the weapon.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, here's where I demonstrate my relative lack of knowledge. So, you are saying the Wilson mag I picked up at the store probably doesn't have a "base plate" designed for my Kimber?

So, if it were you, would you just go back and get a seven-round Wilson mag instead?

Douglas
 

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Muz,

I'll add my 2 cents.

The other posters are correct, on both counts. As to the cocked and locked, you might want to do a search on this forum using "cocked and locked", and read everything. This will give you answers to all of those questions. You really do need to understand the options, and develop a comfort level with your gun. The 1911 platform may be one of the oldest auto platforms in existence, but if you are new to them, they are a new learning curve.

As to the magazines, any magazine that is at least as long as your grip frame will work. I too have an Ultra CDP, and I usually put a 10 rounder on my belt as a spare. As to the one on the gun, if you use a longer one than the grip was designed for, and there is not something on the base that will keep it from "overinserting", the magazine will then be riding on the magazine release, or if you cram one in very fast with no rounds in it, it can go up too far and damage the magazine lips. From a function standpoint they should work. For everyday bumps bangs and handling, it might be best to get one with a base pad configuration that puts a better contact point on the frame than the magazine release. Mine has been flawless with the factory Kimbers, 7 Round Wilson's, and ten round Shooting Stars.

I hope that your Ultra is like mine. A beauty to look at, a wonder to shoot and very easy to carry.

I might also add that if you spend enough time reading all of the old posts about Kimbers, Ultras, Series II's amd MIM parts, you might become a little discouraged. I would suggest letting your gun speak for itself. Mine was the best 1911 purchase that I have ever made, and I have owned a boatload, over the years.

Craig
 

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Muz -

1) I have some 8 round Wilsons with the proper base plate for my Ultra Carry but I only use them for parctice at the range. They stick out alot on the bottom and only give you one extra round. Since I carry spare mags that one round is not that important to me.

2) The biggest problem with easing the hammer down on a chambered round is if the hammer gets away from you and it could easily happen, you will have an accidental discharge on your hands. Why take the chance. You can rack the slide just as fast and probably easier than cocking the hammer.

3) Bearbait - Where did you get your 10 rounders that will fit the Ultra frames?

MadDog :p
 

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Maddog,

Sorry I was unclear in my post. The 10 rounders do work, but they stick way out the bottom. Given that the ultra has the Officer's style grip, I was trying to convey that all single stack 1911 mags would work from a functional standpoint, but the extra mag bottom hanging out might not be the best choice. I do so for my spare mag, as I figure that if I really need that many rounds, the do-do is so deep that I do not care if they stick out, and my gun is too light to be butt stroking anybody's head, anyway ;^)

I would also caution that if your frame is like my Ultra, aluminum, any of the Shooting Star/Kimber mags with the split follower will dent the frame on the last round. I talked with Dennis at Kimber about this (and a few other things as I placed an order for spare parts), and we decided that as long as you change the split metal follower mag before your last shot (sorta a tactical type reload), the frame battering should not be an issue. I believe that the denting is partly caused by the recoil of that last bullet, with the empty mag in place. I guess it could be happening as that last round is being feed, at the point that the bullet engages the breach face, and the slide hits the front of the top lip. Either way, I also feel that I will crack my frame from shooting it long before any denting becomes an issue. This is especially true as the denting is well below the feedramp on my gun, and is only cosmetic, in my book.

Craig
 

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Bearbait -

I understand the 10 round mags stick way out the bottom of the Ultra frames. My 8 rounders do the same but I only use them for practice at the range. My 8 rounders have base plates made for the Ultra frame to prevent over insertion. My questions is, do your 10 rounders have a base plate to prevent over insertion? If so where did you get them? I have changed all my split metal followers on all my Kimber and Shooting Star mags with nylon Wilsons to prevent any frame gouging and I would do the same on any 10 rounder I purchased.

MadDog ;)
 

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Maddog,

My 10 rounders have the molded bottoms that are designed to work on the full size frame, not my Ultra, so there is a gap between the bottom of the frame, and the top of the follower molding. Not the best fit, but it does not worry me. I would only be terribly concerned if I were in the habit of slaming the empty mags into the gun, which I don't. I guess from a tactical standpoint, having those mags in the gun may not be optimal if the gun were to get a sharp blow to the bottom of the mag, but again that will be the least of my worries.

Thanks for the tip on the Wilson followers. I have been looking into that, and when I talked to the guys at Wilson they said that their replacement followers were NOT designed to be used in non-Wilson magazines. This advice seems to run contrary to what I have seen posted here. What have your experiences been? Have they worked in the factory Kimber mags? I tended to believe the Wilson Rep., as I was placing an order at the time, and I suspect that he would have been glad to sell me additional items if he had thought that I would have been happy with them. I tend to be a little slow with mag modifications, as I then feel that I have to re-run many rounds through them before I "certify" them for carry.

I guess we have now thoroughly hijacked this thread :^)

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I spent over two hours reading past threads resulting from a "cocked" & "locked" search of the archives. I'm now thoroughly convinced it is the way to go with my Ultra Carry II. I see by all the old posts that I'm not the first person to experience discomfort with carrying condition 1. (All my previous experience was with carrying a .380 Colt Mustang Plus Two. And, I've always carried that condition 2).

Anyway, as far as the direction this thread is taking, I'm quite curious to hear about whether plastic followers ought to be used in this gun.

Also, at the range yesterday, I shot about 150 rounds (have 200 total on the gun now) and twice with the Kimber mag the slide failed to lock open following the final shot. The second time, something caught the slide about an eighth of an inch from closing and it took some effort to unfreeze it. What's up with that? Is it common for this gun?

Douglas
 

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Douglas,

My Ultra CDP has an aluminum frame. I do know whether yours does, or not, but if it does and you are using mags with the split follower design, you might want to take a look at the frame, just below the feed ramp, to check for dings. Mine has a few.

I have been using the Wilson 7 rounders (with the sythenic follower), and it has stopped the problem. So, I would say that if you can tolerate the small amount of magazine that sticks out (base pad), you might want to think about them. If your factory mags are working, and not dinging the frame, then use either.

As to the slide not locking back on the last round, that should not be happening. Either the slide lock is still a little stiff, or the mag springs are a little light, or it might just be the mag being a little sluggish due to oil or grit. I would suggest doing a detail strip on the magazines, to clean them up well. After that, I would just shoot the heck out of it, to try and break the thing in, if it does need that. If you have more than one magazine, mark them in such a way that you can see if it is just one mag causing the problem. You might want to get things cleaned and lubed properly, then manually cycle the gun and hit the slide release with your finger, to see that it goes up with a little effort. The pin that keeps it in the down position should be slightly recessed into the back of the slide stop, and it should click up, not too easily, or not too stiffly. My best guess is that everything just needs a little use to smoothen up.

As to the lock-up that you described, a little more info would be helpful. If it did this on the last round, with no slide lock, going back into battery, it could be that you got some engagement of the slide lock, enough to slow the slide down, then perhaps it hung up on the safety plunger. I would certainly not be too worried at this point with so few rounds through it, especially if it were not lubed adequately, or if it happened close to the end of the shooting session. You can do a lot of reading here, and find out all kinds of reasons that might have caused it. If it were me, I would clean it well (mags too), lube it properly, including the firing pin safety parts, then shoot it some more. Keep the mags identified, and report back with more detailed info if it happens again. If it does happen, take a breath, and go slowy to identify exactly the state of the gun, and go slowly trying different things to unstick the gun. By this I mean drop out the magazine, try moving the slide back and forth. No luck, try fully depressing the grip safety, as this will move the firing pin safety parts.

A gun should work every time, with every type of magazine, with every bullet, in the perfect world. Unfortunately, it is a machine, with lots of moving parts, and it will always be subject potential problems.

Good luck,

Craig
 
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