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So I've already posted a couple threads on my Colt 1991A1 I want to give some help to. It seems to be the general consensus that a loose slide frame fit, at least movement from side to side on the rails, is no big deal. But what about the slide to frame fit being loose going up and down?

Also, there seems to be quite a few different ways to adjust slide to frame fit. What is the best way?
 

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If the barrel locks up tight in the slide in the same position every time. It is of no consequence to accuracy except for a very small percentage on a match gun. The best way (in my opinion and shared by some of the best smiths) is to TIG weld the frame rails and machine/file/stone to fit. Lots of detail left out of that, but I'm tired right now.
 

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If the barrel locks up tight in the slide in the same position every time. It is of no consequence to accuracy except for a very small percentage on a match gun. The best way (in my opinion and shared by some of the best smiths) is to TIG weld the frame rails and machine/file/stone to fit. Lots of detail left out of that, but I'm tired right now.

.......Bingo. Get some rest BBBBILL :)

Chuck W
 

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I don't like to weld on the rails. That does depend on the type of material that the frame is made out of, 8620 or 4000 series steels react differently. Generally I don't really know what the frame is made out of and as such I am leery of welding.
I like to chrome plate the frame rails oversize and then grind back to fit.
 

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Vertical play of slide

I have welded tabs on the outside edge of the frame, one weld at a time, then fitted the slide. I then welded the opposite side of the frame and fitted the slide. This effectively removed the unwanted vertical play. I then tightened up the lower barrel lugs by rewelding, and recutting with a lug cutter. This made a good lock-up and improved the overall accuracy of the match barrel I was using (Kart 9mm). Attached is a picture of the weld tabs on the outside edge of the frame rails.
 

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Also, there seems to be quite a few different ways to adjust slide to frame fit. What is the best way?
Eitheer Accu-Rails or the rail system from Mountain Competition Pistols.
 

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So I've already posted a couple threads on my Colt 1991A1 I want to give some help to. It seems to be the general consensus that a loose slide frame fit, at least movement from side to side on the rails, is no big deal. But what about the slide to frame fit being loose going up and down?

Also, there seems to be quite a few different ways to adjust slide to frame fit. What is the best way?


If the frame to slide fit has Vertical Slop, then you do not have have a good barrel lockup.
 

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If the frame to slide fit has Vertical Slop, then you do not have have a good barrel lockup.

If the slop is detectible when the gun is in battery, I agree with you. If however, the slop is detectible only when the barrel is removed from the gun or with the slide locked back, then a little slide to frame slop is not significant.

A correctly fitted barrel will take up vertical slop between slide and frame when in battery.
 

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Vertical slop

I have seen slides with a lot of vertical play that still shot pretty darn good.
The barrel would be pushed up into the lock lugs of the slide and stay there, even though there was an opportunity for the barrel to move since the slide stop pin was not pushing up on the lower feet of the barrel.

I don't necessrily like this in my pistol, so I remove the vertical play in the slide and make sure the slide stop pin is in slight contact with the lower barrel lugs at battery. This is a better guarantee the barrel won't move in battery. The Dwyer group gripper does a good job of keeping a loose barrel in battery. The Dwyer group gripper is now sold by Wilson Combat, and is a relatively inexpensive way to improve the vertical lock up of a loose fitting slide.
 

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A correctly fitted barrel will take up vertical slop between slide and frame when in battery.
I prefer a correctly fitted barrel in a pistol that doesn't have vertical slop to begin with.:biglaugh:
 

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If the slop is detectible when the gun is in battery, I agree with you. If however, the slop is detectible only when the barrel is removed from the gun or with the slide locked back, then a little slide to frame slop is not significant.

A correctly fitted barrel will take up vertical slop between slide and frame when in battery.


Forgot to add that point. You are quite correct.
 
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