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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Para Pro Custom barrel and slide from Sarco so I can turn my 9mm Pro Custom into a 40 so I can shoot Major in USPSA.

It was obvious why Sarco had these parts because the slide needed the extractor channel relieved at the breech and when it was done the slide was no longer a 'first'. It came with sights and is exactly like my 9mm slide. $155

The barrel OTOH is Match grade and stainless but the lower lugs are needing welding to tighten the upper lug engagement when the slide is in battery.

I have the equipment to cut and fit the barrel if I could find someone to weld them.

I was even considering using a group gripper. I'm going to be shooting the crap out of this thing and don't know the longevity of that system..

I've tried to find another 'gunsmith fit' barrel and Brownells has a Kart in stock ($200 in the white) but jeeze its a shame to not use the barrel I have.

All it needs is < fifteen minutes with a competent welder that has the mini TIG.

I'm having a hard time finding a local GS that I'd trust to just weld.

Anybody have any Ideas?
 

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... All it needs is < fifteen minutes with a competent welder that has the mini TIG.

I'm having a hard time finding a local GS that I'd trust to just weld.

Anybody have any Ideas?
Skip the gunsmith and focus on finding a competent welder. There's got to be plenty of good welders up there in the aviation or other hi tech industries. Heat sink the barrel, leaving only the lower lugs exposed and let him have at it.
Or ask log man to weld it for you.
 

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I really don't suggest doing that, but first just to understand, how deep is the first lug recess?

LOG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I really don't suggest doing that, but first just to understand, how deep is the first lug recess?

LOG
.0565"

I like the way you think LOG.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sooooo.

After LOGs post I've been measuring.

I have .051" of upper lug engagement.

I have a barrel that is ~ .009" shy of being fully engaged when barrel is in battery sitting on top of the slide release.

I'm thinking my barrels upper lugs are the problem because If I had the .040 to .043 lug engagement my feet wouldn't need welded.
 

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I'm no expert, but I've been under the impression that .051 isn't necessarily too much engagement, and that .045 or slightly more engagement is good. Whether I'm right or wrong, the lower lugs still seem to need repair.
 

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"I'm having a hard time finding a local GS that I'd trust to just weld."

And you will as the average or even above average GS can't weld a barrel for f***. Welding up barrels seems a lost art these days. Clark still does it (and right) and other than Don Fisher in Colorado if he is still smithing and maybe Mike LaRocca I can't think of anyone else I would trust offhand. I know some welders I would trust to do it and I would do it myself on one of my guns if I had to but would trust very few "gunsmiths" to do it right.
 

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I was even considering using a group gripper. I'm going to be shooting the crap out of this thing and don't know the longevity of that system..
You would be surprised how long a Group Gripper lasts. The spring in it gets weak before the thing breaks and if fitted properly (and the notch in the GG link that engages the guide tab well lubed) they run a long time. Or you could just use a slightly longer link if needed which also works just fine as long as you don't get have to get carried away with the length and you set it up so it just keeps the back of the barrel from dropping and doesn't "cram" the barrel up-I get them to run 20K plus easily with out breaking anything IME and quite honestly have never had a gun I put a long link in break anything because of it.
 

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When you go over .050 links get pretty long. Kimber barrels for instance are commonly found to have a first lug recess of .034-.036, engagement a point less.

Buy the Kart barrel.

LOG
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you go over .050 links get pretty long. Kimber barrels for instance are commonly found to have a first lug recess of .034-.036, engagement a point less.

LOG
The .009 measurement of play when in battery was with the longest link.

That much engagement may have an issue dis-engaging during cycling if you welded the lugs and used that long of a link I presume.

And, I guess there's no way of silversoldering the #1 lug channel on top of the barrel.......

Buy the Kart barrel.

LOG
I was afraid you'd say that.....It's already saved in my cart at Brownells.

Ordering it now......

Thanks again for pointing out where I failed to measure lug depth. The pistol would have been a mess and I'd spent all that wasted time dinking with something that was cut wrong. Barrels are relatively cheap when compared to frustration and time spent forcing something to work.
 

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As we progress in understanding, we all realize the 1911 is a very simple system with a mass of complicated results, by changing one thing..

LOG
 
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