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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, any help greatly appreciated! I've been pondering over this for the past few days now.

I'm building a CCO in 10mm and was planning to weld a Briley magwell. Part already in hand, ready to start milling away when I noticed the sear spring slot is almost at the same level with the MSH pin. So, milling, fitting and welding aside, once I start blending the frame and magwell, that slot is gonna be milled clean off. Other than needing to fill the gap between the frame and the MSH, what do I do about the sear spring?

My first thought is I need to cut down the sear spring, bend a new tab and cut a new slot into the frame to match. First concern, will the sear spring be able make a 90 bend w/o cracking? I could cut the leaves and increase the length of the channels to get the length of the leaves back to spec. I can't find any short sear springs out there. Second concern, the frame slot that retains the sear spring is so narrow. I don't have an endmill that small. Stumped on how that was possible in the first place.

I have some experience building full-size 1911/2011s, but I've been finding challenges left and right working on a commander slide and compact frame for the first time. I.e., MSH pin hole not lining up to the frame hole, stroked slide and frame, barrel link hitting guide rod, etc. Specs just don't seem to be as tight for non-standard builds. Definitely a learning curve, but no scrapped parts, yet....

So before I throw in the towel of this is not possible, what can be done to make this work?
 

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The sear spring can be bent after annealing it in that area, I have done this to actually make it longer by opening up the bend. To anneal I stand the spring upside down in a small can of water with the end sticking out a little, heat red with a torch several times and allow to cool, the sequence is red, cool to black, red again etc. 3-4 times this takes place in just a matter of seconds, like annealing a band saw blade. The water will keep the required spring leaves to be intact. Consider to simply trap the spring between the MSH, and edge of the frame cut so it is as long as possible, and cutting a slot isn't needed. You could actually bend the whole width of the spring, rather than a tab, which will then locate, and hold it in place.

LOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting thought of wedging it. It won't float up? I know the disco tends to put some downward pressure and the MSH adds forward pressure, but would that be enough?
 

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Interesting thought of wedging it. It won't float up? I know the disco tends to put some downward pressure and the MSH adds forward pressure, but would that be enough?
You would still bend the base of the spring so the bent edge was trapped between the MSH and the frame web. You would be able to actually see the bent edge when looking into the mag well just as you can see the bent tab of a stock spring. The frame web would be clearanced for the thickness of the sear spring. It could not move as once assembled it would be trapped. I have been thinking the MSH would be of the type that enters the mag well area, such as STI, etc. If the MSH is a standard design, then a slot could be cut using a small cut off wheel.

This is the type of MSH I was thinking of .

LOG
600459
 

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The mag well would then look more like this where the MSH completes the mag well opening funnel.

600460
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@log man: now I get what your trying to say. I might run into the same issue as I'm not sure if they make an STI style MSH for compact frame.

@Greg Derr: I thought about a smaller tab into a drilled hole rather than slot. Just wondering in there is a better/ more aesthetically pleasing way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did ask Stan Chen if he was going to make a Gen2 magwell for compact frames, but sadly not in the near future.

This is a perfect post of roughly how it's going to be done to a full-size frame.
Briley Magwell

To add some pictures for context:
Current officer MSH. Will need to slot and braze extra material for that shoulder.
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Current sear spring slot position:
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In relation to the magwell insert which will be level to the rear the frame after step is milled:
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I guess going back to what log man said, I can mill a step between where the MSH and frame meet and have that slot there. Not sure if it'll snag the rim or not.
600534
 

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Yes, that is the idea.

LOG
 
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Somebody was asking about this. Here's one I'm working on. The magwell is a one off. Not a lot of cal for this but had one in line for a while. I elected to use the standard sear spring location and a Wilson MSH. The mags really slip in well even without a modified MSH. The final width still needs to be cut one the grip width is determined. After lots more sanding the final finish will be a black Ion Bond which will do wonders to cover the silver solder seams.







 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice job! If you can't find one, make it yourself. I wanted something more unique than a drop-in magwell. Thought this would be fairly straight forward. I was quite wrong.

Just to add since I have a small amount of available stock on the magwell, thinking of dovetailing the edge of the frame and magwell so it can be slid on and held w/ a longer housing pin since I don't have a welder. If there are excessively ugly gaps, I'll braze it in. At least there will still be more surface area for a strong hold. Game plan set. I'll share my results when done.

Thx for the solutions and help!
 

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Detonics made one of the first compact 1911 using govt parts, modified the sear spring. I think the springs are still available if needed. I mand one from a Govt Colt spring and cutting the slots back toward the bottom end with the 90-degree bend. Got a great trigger job out of it too
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Happy New Year!

Got some updates. Guess the slot was not as bad as I thought it'd be, and the sear spring fills in the void nicely. I was able to dovetail the magwell w/o the need to weld or braze it. Now I have the option to change it to something else. Maybe a pinky extension to turn it into a commander frame? Just glad I didn't scrap a part or frame. Some pics for your enjoyment.

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