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Discussion Starter #1
I've got the rails down pat -- what are the "must have" lube points on a 1911 that I might be missing ?
 

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Well, YMMV and all that but I wipe down the barrel with oily fingers, put a small drop of oil on the disconnector (where it projects thru the frame and one drop of oil on each side of the hammer. Lube the rails of course. Been doing it that way for years, it works for me.

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While I've got the gun completely stripped, I lube the hammer and sear pins, mainspring, trigger/disconnector, sear spring/disconnector, sear spring/sear - the stuff that can't be reached when the gun is assembled or field stripped. If the gun is only field stripped, I do the link/pin and slide stop pin. Prior to each range session (or when the gun is field stripped), it's one drop on each slide rail, one on each frame rail, one on the top of the barrel muzzle, one on the bottom, and one at 12:00 on the front of the ejection port. My gun was last stripped about 1500-2000 rounds ago, so I'm going to strip it down completely tonight, and detail clean and lube everything. Then it should be good for another 1500. For what it's worth, I've been following that procedure for about two years, and in that time and about 7000 rounds the gun's been completely stripped once, and field stripped eight or ten times. The gun has misfed my range brass reloads twice, and suffered no other malfunctions, or broken or unusually-worn parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
RickyB;

Well said and to the point. Thanks for the info.
 

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In addition to all the above, look for wear spots where the finish is wearing off or where the appearance of the metal has changed due to rubbing. Those are obvious lube spots. Every gun has a few that you wouldn't find without looking.
 
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