[Big_Blue]

I need help understanding the difference between three of Colt's 1911 models. I've been studying their web site, but cannot see the differences between the three models they offer which have the upswept beavertail. I've been looking at the Colt XSE, The Colt Special Combat Government, and the Colt Combat Elite.

I want an upswept beavertail grip safety, readily visible sights, and a wood grained grip (I think grips are easily swapped out). I think I want a stainless steel gun, but a two tone would also be acceptable.

I don't understand the significance of some of their descriptions and could use some help with the terminology:
1. Do I care if a receiver or slide are carbon steel, stainless steel, or aluminum alloy?
2. Do I care if a finish is brushed, anodized black, hard chrome, cerakote, or blued?
3. Do I care if the sights are Bomar, Novak Extreme Duty, Novak Carry with Dots, High Profile, or High Profile with Dots?
4. How does an enhanced hammer differ from a non-enhanced hammer?
5. What is the Model O? They list out a number of guns in the Model O Specifications Schematic, some of which are in the Model 70, Model 80, and the Model XSE groups--maybe others.

Thanks for your help.

 

[bauen]

personal preference

The only difference in the hammers is the shape.

The model O, is just colt's way of saying semi auto.

On the differences in the models, the Xse is a series 80 with Novak sights, front cocking serations, and an ambi safety. The combat elite adds a stainless frame, a national match barrel, and deleted the ambi safety. The Special combat Government is a custom shop piece, nice but expensive.

 

[k_dawg]

I _hate_ how manufactures in so many industries will not provide a quick and simple chart detailing all the relevent detail differences between models.

 

[Also Don P]

The model O, is just colt's way of saying semi auto.

Not quite. Model O is the model designation for pretty much all of the standard 5" 1911s they make. All 3 pistols listed in the OP are Model Os. Not to add to the confusion, but the Gold Cup Trophy would fit your criteria also.

Colt's "enhanced" hammer is just the std. oval hole lightened commander hammer.​

As far as caring about the other things, it's a personal preference thing, really. Carbon steel rusts easier than stainless, so it may not be your first choice for a carry piece. Alloy frame is lighter; that makes it more desirable for carry for some, but it's not quite as durable as either of the steels. Finishes & sights could be argued all day long about which is best, so you might want to research those a little before buying. You may not be able to find Colts in your LGS to check out, but finishes & sights are shared by ALL pistols, so you can compare those on anything. What it comes down to in the end, is what YOU prefer.

 

[jtq]

Have you been to the Colt's website?

http://www.coltsmfg.com/Catalog/ColtPistols.aspx

 

[ejr10mm]

They do offer a chart that details the differences between the models. It is at the rear of the catalog that you can download from the website.

 

[Also Don P]

They do offer a chart that details the differences between the models. It is at the rear of the catalog that you can download from the website.

They've got a chart on every pistol page on the site that details differences, but I think the OP is looking for definitions of the details; different steels, alloys, different finishes, & sights. Best way to get that, IMO, is lots & lots of research, and shopping around. As I said before, try going to a couple of local gun shops for some comparisons, and asking some questions. If the salesperson is knowledgeable,(hopefully) he'll be a big help. If he gets pushy trying to make a sale, move on. That'll help you find a good gun shop too.

 

[David 13]

There are just too many nuances for anyone to know all of it. Unless they are at Colt on the line, and working on the guns every day. And even then something probably is changed on the other shift and they don't know about it immediately.
The XSE used to come with a duckbill tail. But now a beavertail. So if you buy one you might still get either one.
I think you have to do your own research and comparison and soon you will see you are more knowledgeable than any of the sales people.
dc

 

[RickB]

In a lot of cases, making one choice, for, say, materials, locks you into a certain feature or finish. If rust resistance is high on your list of wants/needs, then you will probably want stainless steel construction. A blued finish is not offered on stainless, so you can cross "blued" off, if you want stainless. Some people don't like the silver color of bare stainless, so they may opt for a model that has a cerakote finish, which comes in multiple colors and can be applied over stainless.
If you want sights that are easily adjustable with a screwdriver, then you are locked-in to the Special Combat Government Model, or Gold Cup.
The enhanced hammer has an oval hole, while un-enhanced hammers could be the spur style of the Series 70 and 1991 Government Models, or the round-hole hammer of some Commander models. If you insist on a round-holed hammer, then you are limited to only a couple of models.
It's pretty-much like that across the board, with you having to do enough research to determine which features you want, then choosing the gun that best fulfills your needs.
What's the gun for? Competition? Self-defense? Range use only? All three? Let us know what you want, and you'll get plenty of opinions, then you have to decide if it has helped!

 

[ejr10mm]

Well the cool thing about 1911s are they are the Chevy 350 of the gun world. You can build it however you want. Lots of after market.

 

[eng208]

When the XSE and the Combat Elite XSE first came out, there were distinct differences. Now, not so much. The two tone, grips and the NM barrel are the only differences I know of. The XSE series recently changer to the upswept grip safety which I require on a 1911. I have two Combat Elite XSE models but the XSE in is equally nice. In fact, I may look for a SS XSE so I can dehorn it then bead blast it myself in the future.

 

[Ranger8021]

I have a Combat Elite on order. For me I needed a heavy duty firearm because I work law enforcement as a detective and I have flexibility on duty weapons. The reason why I chose the Combat Elite is because of its entire steel construction, and its national match barrel. The all steel construction ensures that it will be able to hand the +P rounds that are typically used by Law Enforcement which ensure this Colt will endure my entire career with me. It truly comes down to what your needs and preferences are. If your looking for a year round daily concealed carry you may want to look at the Colt Defender or a Commander size firearm. If size is not an issue I would look at the Combat Elite or even a Special Combat if your budget can afford it

 

[Big_Blue]

Thank you all for responding. Yes, I had seen the summary table at the bottom of Colt's web page. I did a screen capture of all the 5" barrel models and put the tables side by side so I could compare one model with another. It was when I did that exercise that I realized I didn't understand the importance of some of the characteristics, and therefore couldn't figure out the differences. I've attached those three files to this post.

I've been reading Patrick Sweeney's Gun Digest book "1911: The First 100 Years" (http://www.amazon.com/1911-The-First-Years-ebook/dp/B00913S6MQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1360508311&sr=8-2&keywords=kindle+1911+pistol). It has helped me better understand the differences between the low end filipino 1911s, the middle layer 1911s, and the high end 1911s. Colt has models in both the middle and the high end categories.

Near as I can tell there are three major differences between these categories: price, options, and fitment. Price and options are self evident. Fitment is the matching of components so as to ensure the best fit. The same manufacturing processes occur in both categories, but the highest quality results are separated out from the yield and put into the high end guns.

The book has also helped me understand that the low end guns are not bad guns at all. The casting process can make a very good gun even though it will not have the lifetime durability of a forged gun. He actually speaks well of the filipino guns as good first owner pistols.

 

[Big_Blue]

Thank you all for responding. Yes, I had seen the summary table at the bottom of Colt's web page. I did a screen capture of all the 5" barrel models and put the tables side by side so I could compare one model with another. It was when I did that exercise that I realized I didn't understand the importance of some of the characteristics, and therefore couldn't figure out the differences. I've attached those three files to this post.

I've been reading Patrick Sweeney's Gun Digest book "1911: The First 100 Years" (http://www.amazon.com/1911-The-First-Years-ebook/dp/B00913S6MQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1360508311&sr=8-2&keywords=kindle+1911+pistol). It has helped me better understand the differences between the low end filipino 1911s, the middle layer 1911s, and the high end 1911s. Colt has models in both the middle and the high end categories.

Near as I can tell there are three major differences between these categories: price, options, and fitment. Price and options are self evident. Fitment is the matching of components so as to ensure the best fit. The same manufacturing processes occur in both categories, but the highest quality results are separated out from the yield and put into the high end guns.

The book has also helped me understand that the low end guns are not bad guns at all. The casting process can make a very good gun even though it will not have the lifetime durability of a forged gun. He actually speaks well of the filipino guns as good first owner pistols.

 

[PM7-10]

In my opinion within the production Colt line (meaning non custom shop pistols) there is little difference in the fitting. The newer CNC machined Colts are all very well fit.

I don't want to start a peeing match with the Philippine pistol fans but there is absolutely no comparison in the fit and finish between them and a Colt. They are a lot cheaper too but you pay less and get less.

I personally think for your first 1911 you should get a 1991 or Series 70. Many of the things people think they want or need they really don't.

To your original Questions:

1) Stainless has less care required, Blued Carbon Steel requires a bit more corrosion prevention and Aluminum is lighter and easier to carry.
2) The finish is for the most part a function of the material.
3) Depends on the use.
4) Looks and compatibility with the beavertail.
5) Model O is the O frame pistol (the 1911). P is the SAA. Much like Smith and Wesson "J frames" or "K frames". It is just the family of pistols.

The major differences in the Combat Elite and the 5" XSE is the single sided thumb safety (vs ambidextrous), national match barrel (VS standard barrel) and the blued carbon steel slide and slide parts (VS Stainless), frankly other than cosmetics I see no compelling reason to choose one over the other.

The Special Combat pistols use some better quality parts (S&A Grip Safety, Novak's Thumb Safety, S&A Magwell/MSH) and have quite a bit of hand fitting and attention to detail. They are very accurate. The Hard Chrome option allows you to have a more durable finish than blue but still on carbon steel.

Here are a couple of threads about the Special Combat models.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=387315

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=377995