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Turtle Wax? CLP? What's the best blueing "protector" on the market? I know the pistol will wear at certain points; I've got no problem with the gun developing character, but I don't want it to rust. In addition to wiping it down regularly with a silicon cloth, what substance do you recommend I apply to its surface.

Thanks.
 

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I used to do that with a good car polisher. It was quite messy when the stuff dried and left white particles all over the non flat surface. Especially the serrations, checkerings. I heard that it was good for long term storage (no more touching.) Now, I use just oil or silicone cloth.
 

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I use Birchwood casey sheath after cleaning and have had no problems. I carry it mainly in an inside the waistband holster. Every night I wipe it down with a silicone rag. No rust in a year+ The gun has a blue slide over a stainless frame.
 

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I have used the Flitz polish on my well used Colt Python and one of my S&W's revolvers when I shot a lot of PPC years ago and it worked well. The guns cleaned much easier also. Never had any corrosion while shooting and being stationed in a hot and humid climate in Alabama in the late 1980's.

I do not know if the chemical compostition of new stuff is the same but I recommend you you check and try it out other piece of metal first.

I hope this helps.

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Be safe and keep the brass flying

Terry Peters

http://www.pt-partners.com

Do your research but you get what you pay for front end or back end.
 

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On flitz removing the blueing.

At that time it did not. Which I why I recommended try in on a piece of metal. I do not know what the new stuff is like.

The newer blue finishes wear off much faster than the older guns like the Model 29 I bought in 1972 and the Python I bought in 1969, or my 72 Browning Highpower or the very very well worn Series 70.

I used it regularly on the S&W 29 as I used to shoot in Steel competitions with it. The blue wear was normal for holster. We used to reload loads as hot as we could to knock down steel rams. That would beat the devil out of an early S&W frame. The frame was not strong enough for some of the repeated pounding the loads made. I also used the Flitz on the Python and PPC loads were very mild but being as cheap I used the Dupont Powders which were very dirty and required lots of during match cleaning.

The blue stayed on those guns made during that time frame, again normal holster wear.

The chemical compound or make up the the newer flitz may different which is why I asked to please try it on another piece of metal first. I know the stuff I used did not have any abrasive compounds in it and it retained the blue and for some reason the powder residue just wiped off with little or no effort.

The quicker wear of the newer blue finishes may have something to do with the metal density or harder steels

This comment is from one customer who is some kind of metal engineer type. Steel is porous and the newer, harder steels are more dense and harder meaning coatings and platings are more protective than finishes.

Blue, I have read and was told is controlled corrosion as was Browning was for the early made guns. Hence one could get better blue finishes on older guns and newer guns strive toward coatings of some kind. I know profit is also part of it.

I am certain EPA/government regulation has a great deal to do with what businesses can do with blue and plating chemicals. Also cost. A business has to make money or no business.

I wonder if the trade off for better harder steels over the years is coating and platings instead of the deep rich royal blue finish of days gone by or is it just government regulations and profit motivation.

Got me. Enough Philosophy.

Time to burn more powder.

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Be safe and keep the brass flying

Terry Peters
http://www.pt-partners.com

Do your research but you get what you pay for front end or back end.

[This message has been edited by PT-Partners (edited 10-07-2001).]
 

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Well, I'd give you $300 for it, but if you'll get > $300 of satisfaction from tossing it, then, by all means, toss it.
 

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Believe it or not, plain old car WAX or plain old Pledge. You have to redo the gun every day, but the wax will keep most holster wear from occuring. Be sure and do NOT use car wax/polish combos w/polishing compounds.
 

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ive had good luck with boshield.boeing puts it out for protecting gears prior to assembly.it goes on wet and dries to a thin coat.many gun stores carry it for gun use.ive used it on my most expensive guns for 8 years and it works well.
 
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