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All mine are stainless. Have you considered stainless??:)
 

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Hard chrome is generally considered the toughest finish. After that, there are several polymer finishes. For example, Les Baer uses what it calls Bear Coating and Ed Brown uses what it calls it's Gen III coating. Springfield offers their Army Kote on some of their guns (the TRP, for example). I believe this is the same finish as the XD.
 

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No paint will hold up like hard chrome. All my carry guns are stainless steel, but if I were to have anything refinished, it would be hard chrome.
 

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Stainless by far.
 

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based on what I (actually) own, not what I consider

I have 7 stainless steel guns, both revolvers and automatics.
I have one hardchromed gun (AP&W, '95).
I have one gun finished with NP3 (Robar, '97).
I have one of the stainless 1911 frames finished with electroless nickel impregnated with boron carbide.
(I have other guns: blued, aluminum, etc.)
None get babied, or even 'common' care.

In my experience the NP3 is the toughest; all the other guns rust, except (so far) the electroless nickel impregnated with boron carbide frame.


If rust and wear are your issues, I most highly recommend investigating Robar's NP3 finish.
It is electroless nickel impregnated with Teflon.
 

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I've got a 1911 with ionbond over hard chrome. I've only got about 1K rounds thru it, but the barrel hood is not even showing any wear yet. There are some marks in the mag well and that is it.
 

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(testing for goal)

I, instead, had that electroless nickel impregnated with boron carbide applied on that stainless steel frame.

I'm trying to find out LOL.......

Until then, I'll muddle though with NP3 (which I'll again point out has zero rust, and no actual discernable wear. Since 1997...).
 

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I own two Metaloy HC'ed guns and have yet to see any wear after 3yrs. One has gone to more than a few IDPA events. I owned a NP3'ed Sig for awhile, again no problems. I will be trying one of the melonite treatments for my railed 1911 I'm having built. :)
 

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Satin matte Stainless for carry. Clean it once in a while and it will be fine. If you do scratch it, it can be bead blasted to remove it and it looks great again at a minimal cost.


Scott
 

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stainless, not the polished all over type. A cheap bead blaster, a pane of thick glass, three grades of fine sandpaper. Glass backed emery paper for the polished flats and the bead blaster for the rest. Easy.
 

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stainless, in florida with the humidity and salt air, i have had zero problems with the finish on any of my 3 stainless pistols.

NRA LIFE MEMBER
NAHC LIFE MEMBER

WE CAN ONLY BE WHAT WE GIVE OURSELVES THE POWER TO BE...
 

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I'd vote IonBond. For a silver-colored finish, hard chrome. Putting either over stainless should be just about the best of all worlds.
I was admiring the finish on the slide of a M&P, over the weekend. It had a sort of glossy appearance like polished bluing, but I assume it's something more hi-tech and durable?
 

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+1

I can say from personal, painful experience that Wilson's finish should be somewhere near last on the list.
Interesting, my experiences are quite the opposite in my Wilsons. One of them is a late 90s CQB that's been carried by me off and on for the last 5yrs. One of the better "painted" finishes I've owned.
 

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anyway to go something of the durability of hard chrome in something like satin black?

I've have armor tuff on my pistols and after 4 months of good use there is considerable wear on the safety and the edges of the slide around the barrel...kinda disappointing. I was told by Wilson that I shouldn't worry about rust but I do see bare metal...
 
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