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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Can someone direct me on the proper lubrication of the 1911. I am going to completely disassemble my 1911 and my manual does not do a good job at explaining what parts should get oiled/greased and what parts should not. Does the sear/disconnector get any oil? Do the Hammer hooks get greased? Firing Pin? What pins get oiled? Basically, everything about lubrication. Thank for any info and direction on where to find info.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks ZDRAGON52, I appreciate the response, but I am actually inquiring about which parts get lubricated on the pistol. I normally use Tetra on everything.
 

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Everybody has their favorite lubricants, and where to lube.

I like a lthin coat of a liquid oil like CLP Breakfree on all surfaces to act as a rust preventer.

I oil all areas that move, and use a good grease on the slide and frame rails and the outside of the barrel.

Apply lube to:
The slide and frame rails.
The sides of the trigger bow and the rear flat.
The complete sear and disconnecter.
The sear and hammer pins.
The hammer notches.
Sides of the hammer around the pin hole.
The pivot point of the hammer strut.
The spring and plungers inside the mainspring housing.
The locking lugs, lower legs, and front of the barrel.
Inside the barrel bushing.
Inside and outside of the magazine catch, spring and lock.
Safety shaft.
Safety lug area of the grip safety and the area around the pin hole.
The slide stop shaft.
The recoil spring and guide.
Inside the recoil spring plug.
Small amount on the extractor, and the firing pin and spring.
The Series 80 safety plunger and spring, and the activating levers in the frame.

Again, anywhere you think some lubricant would prevent friction.
 

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For a standard field strip and clean, I lube the:

frame rails/slide
locking lugs
barrel link/ legs
barrel bushing
 

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I use Weapon Shield. Pretty much, I like a "wet" gun. I would rather see oil run, than have any dry metal-to-metal contact. If there is metal-to-metal contact-----juice it. Frame rails, slide rails, bbl lug, bbl feet, bbl bushing, bbl link & pin, sear, disconnector, hammer hooks, hammer strut, mainspring housing spring, mainspring, thumb safety, slide release, firing pin spring, extractor, recoil spring guide, recoil spring. Did a quick detail strip trying to name all the parts-------let me know what I missed. Metal-to-metal gets oil/lube. Tracy
 

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When I detail strip my pistols, EVERYTHING gets wiped down with a cloth soaked in FP-10. Not dripping, just coated.
The "other" Tracy
 

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And don't forget to periodically re-lube the piece. The lube will run off, evaporate and otherwise deteriorate over time. Lube ain't permanent. When in doubt, use more than you think you'll need.
 

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And don't forget to periodically re-lube the piece. The lube will run off, evaporate and otherwise deteriorate over time. Lube ain't permanent. When in doubt, use more than you think you'll need.
+ 1

esp if it is a carry piece. my gun spends all night pointed down in a holster, and gravity always works. during the day while im sleeping laying on its side.

re lube about once a week if its a cary gun, but more if you can lock the slide back and things apear to be dry..

you dont have to soak it down, too much isnt the best thing either.

also keep in mind if you do carry it alot, esp inside the waistband you will get lint and such in it, so it will need cleaned more often.

take care.

russel
SDMF
 

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Oil and grease.

You got a pretty good list from Dfariswheel. I'll add one point, easily remembered. If it pivots, oil it. If it slides, grease it.
 

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You got a pretty good list from Dfariswheel. I'll add one point, easily remembered. If it pivots, oil it. If it slides, grease it.
Unless it's a Kimber. Kimber wants oil on all of those surfaces.
 

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Grease has no place on a M1911 if it's to be used as a weapon. The Army and Marine Corps had several decades experiece with these pistols and grease never appeared in their lubrication instructions.

CLP remains the recommended lube for weapons of this type. You can't over-lubricate a M1911. You can make a mess on your shirts and glasses, but the pistol doesn't mind. ;)

Sparing amount of CLP for carry. Much more for range practice.

-- Chuck
 

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We agree on one point.

Chuck said:
You can't over-lubricate a M1911. You can make a mess on your shirts and glasses, but the pistol doesn't mind.

Fully agreed. However, I've had exceedingly good performance using a light grease such as lubriplate or lithium on the frame rails and barrel/bushing. If your pistol doesn't like it, though, don't use it.

CLP, however good, is a recent addition. It still doesn't replace a good solvent when needed, but if you choose an all in one product, it's good.
 

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It ain't rocket science, don't make it harder than it has to be.

Hose down a rag with CLP and wipe stuff down.

That's it.
 

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A part of my field strip drill is that I also clean the extractor and firing pin channels every time. I spray a little bit of CLP on Q-Tips to get everything clean, especially the extractor tunnel.

My lube process for all the other parts has already been detailed by other posters. :cool:
 

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Bill Wilson's little picture book is good on lubrication.

Bill Wilson's little picture book is very good on lubrication. I like Weaponshield or FP10 and find them worth the money.

The various DVD's are more expensive but may be worth the extra money for folks who find the pictures better. YouTube has some pictures. I'd strongly suggest the Wilson book or the Brown DVD or whatever strikes your eye including browsing Patrick Sweeney's 1911 books at the bookstore.

Basically, everything about lubrication
It depends. Take a look at Patrick Sweeney's first Book of the 1911 for Digest (Krause) for a simple and useful discussion of matching the lubrication to the pistol, the intended use, and the ambient conditions.

what parts should not
I'd avoid soaking wooden grips in petroleum based lubes and I wouldn't spray loaded magazines with aerosol oils but mostly I wouldn't worry about it for most purposes. Maybe some wax on the magazines and an oily finger on magazine springs depending on material and maybe not. Then again I would worry about it for out of the ordinary conditions.

Contrary to some other views I do think grease can have a place on the 1911 but then again that place is the game gun or high round count training or exercises not standby or light range use.
 

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Oil vs Grease
Old habits vs New age products


Here is my personal take ......... my carry gun never leaves the house without a high tech grease on the rail system - period.

Oils can dissippate and DO ! More dangerously, Oils can Wick away from the weapon from contact with things like holsters [ leather ] and clothing.

I can put my carry gun inside the holster for months ........ and when it is removed, the rail system will be just as lubricated as the day it was put away. The same can not be said for using a light "cleaning" oil like CLP.

Remember, the military buys many things from the cheapest contract, not necessarily the from the best product. If something cheaper does the job, but requires a little more work .......then the military will go cheaper.

But lets go with the Military - check out what they have to say about TW25B ......it's a type of high tech. grease used in high dust and sand areas!

Imagine that ! they can make grease that doesn't attract sand and grit !
What will they come up with next ?

Grease for the Rails ................ Oils for everything else.

JF.
 

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Mobil 1, 5W-20 works great for me. Just don't get carried away. A few drops on all slide grooves and sliding surfaces will work wonders. Ren
 

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I use Mobile 1 synthetic grease for the slide rails. Slide movement feels smoother with the grease, like pulling a drawer on a snap-on tool box. I put the gun in a ziplock and in the freezer for 2-3 hours, until it was too cold to touch with bare hands, and the slide cycled without any perceivable difference than before.

I use a testors model paint brush to to brush FP-10 on all of the internal parts. The oil stays put instead of dripping everywhere like when using drops of oil, but leaves more on the surface than just wiping parts down with an oil soaked cloth.
 
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