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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi-
anyone happen to know what material the pro cdp's made from? manual suggests runnung a lightly oiled patch through the barrel till i'm ready to shoot, then dy patch when i shoot. i want to use this gun as a home defense weapon, so i need it always ready to shoot. the problem is i live to blocks to the ocean, so the salt air is a potential hazzard. the kimber web site only makes mention of the custom cdp as having a stainless barrel.

thanx in advance
 

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As far as I know only the Gold Match , Gold Combat and Super Match have the stainless barrels. Your Pro CDP should have the steel barrel in it, not the stainless one, at least that's the way the catalog lists them.
 

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Sreiter

Don't worry too much about what the material of your barrel is, it really does not matter that much as long as you keep an eye on it. Carbon steel barrels have been around for centuries and with a little care they will last for centuries. By care I mean clean the barrel after each range session, or once a month if is seeing home defense duty. Once a month is really overkill, but it is a good interval to remember.

For your home defense role, leave the interior of your barrel dry. Just clean it normally and wipe it dry with patches. Also, since you live so close to the coast, I suggest that you wipe the frame and slide down with a silicon cloth at least weekly, and preferably more often. Another thing to consider is what material you rest the pistol against while it is not in your holser. I suggest you not let your pistol rest on anything other than a silicon cloth, polypropelene, or wool, since most other materials will wick moisture from the air.

I hope this helps.


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Str8_Shot

The best handgun for self defense, is the one you have with you.
 

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The CDP series gun frames are made of T 7075 Aluminum, the strongest aluminum available. Just do what str8 said, give it a good wipedown a couple times a week and you'll be ok. I live in a very humid area, no rust on my baby.
 

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The barrel on my CDP rusted very quickly (the outside, not the inside) when I failed to clean it for a week or 2. I took some fine grit steel wool and sanded off most of it, leaving some black scoring on the barrel, but no other apparent damage. Taught me to never leave that gun unlubricated or uncleaned. I'm thinking about getting it NP-3'd so I don't have to worry about it. Later.

Oh yeah, I was in Hawaii at the time, similar climate to yours, probably.

[This message has been edited by jason10mm (edited 11-08-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanx to everyone who answered - jason, whats np-3 ? how many rounds did you have through it in between cleanings? do you re-lube/clean it reguardless of how much you fire? do you clean it everytime you fire even if it's only 100-150 rounds?

[This message has been edited by sreiter (edited 11-09-2001).]
 

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sreiter, NP-3 is one of Robars corrosion resistant gun coats. I forget all the specifics but I hear it is the next best thing below the Glock Tenifer finish, which you can't get in the US. It is a silver color, so it will keep the 2 tone CDP look. It is also supposed to be pretty self lubricating and not so thick that it affects functioning. Anyway, all good things for a carry gun
I don't clean after every trip to the range, but I do wipe down the shiney parts and the slide with some sort of anti-rust juice after every handling. I do know that my GM starts to choke after 600 rounds of speer lawman without cleaning, so I try to do it at least that often. I find tetra lube is a great lube and makes the clean up much easier. LAter.
 

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I live in South Florida and carry my SS Ultra Carry everyday. After I clean my pistol I spray it lightly inside and out with Rem Oil and let it sit for about 30 minute and wipe of any excess. Rem-oil seem to dry pretty fast and complete after 30 minutes. I also put a patch down the barrel with Rem Oil follow by 2 dry patch. After 3 years I still don't see any rust on my pistol.
 

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rug357

As long as you keep the RemOil a long way away from your ammo, it sounds like you have a pretty good method. Remoil is a solvent based teflon lubricant which is why it drys so quickly. This is also why you want to keep it away from your ammo, asmost solvents will kill primers and powder really fast.

Since you live in South Florida there are some things you should watch for.

First when you clean your slide, look for rust. Some forms of stainless will rust and this can act as an abrasive against the aluminum frame. This abrasion can wear away the anodize surface which protects the frame from various forms of corrosion.

Second, when you clean your frame look for evidence of cracks or pitting. Aluminum, even 7075, will not stand up to a lot of pounding. Also, 7075 is very prone to corrosion from salt water, and pits and cracks will be the first evidence of corrosion. Your use of Remoil, will probably keep this from happening for a long time.

Third, using a teflon or Molly based lubricant reduces the friction between the frame and slide to almost zero. So you should use the next higher force recoil spring in order to reduce the potential for the slide to batter the frame.

I hope this helps.


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Str8_Shot

The best handgun for self defense, is the one you have with you.
 

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It was my understanding and I could be wrong that the CDP's are stainless with an aluminum frame. I know my Ultra has a stainless slide and barrel. so, unless they've changed them since 1999 it should be stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
orion - called kimber - it's not stainless
 
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