1911Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1911 that I need to refinish. The slide is currently coated in norrells moly resin and the frame is blued.

All I have is aluminum oxide right now and I'm concerned that it is too aggressive and will remove too much material. What would you suggest?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
What I use is 80 grit aluminum oxide for the rough work then finsh with a number 8 glass bead. If you blue over this it will give a nice matte blue / black finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
SHould do fine. I do a lot of Dura Coat work and al I do to prep the surface is blast with 80 grit A.O. clean off the rsidue and apply the finish. I know I keep going back to aluminum oxide in 80 grit and the reason is that it is aggrssive enough to take off the old finish and clean up the surface but not so aggerssive as to undoly remove metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
I use 120 grip aluminum oxide for prep before bluing or Gun Koat. Nice mate finish. Works good for stainless too.


-Robert
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
485 Posts
I think aluminum oxide is exactly what you are supposed to use… you need the aggressive texture to give the moly resin something to attach itself to, I think specifically glass beads are not recommended because they leave the finish too smooth to get good adherence. That is based on my experience with GunKote, but from what I gather, Norrell’s needs the same prep work.

COARMS, I’m curious about the suggestion to blue it – I’m only speculating which is why I ask, but if I understand right the moly resin type finishes impart some metal protection even after they wear off (at least that is what I thought I remembered reading)… would the fact that a gun has been previously coated with moly resin have an effect on the blue reacting to the metal?

One thing that makes me ask that is I noticed that Wilson Combat has started offering their 1911’s in a blue finish; however, they specifically will not blue any handgun that has been previously coated with Armor-Tuff/ Gun-Kote/MolyResin…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
You would have problems with most of I guess for like of a better term the more traditional bluing salts but after doing alot of research and through trial and error. I have found oxynate 84 can be used to blue alot of things that have tradionally been considered unbluable. Usually when a gun as had some type of resin finish before hand it also requires an acid bath prior to bluing. But with the oxynate 84 we are having great results. My guess to why more people do not use his process is that it is very time consuming and more labor intensive than regular bluing not to mention the fact that 84 is really hard on your skin if it gets on you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
You do not need to remove Norrell's MR. You can finish over top of the existing finish.

If you want to remove it, I'd also suggest AO 120 grit. That is what the folks at KG Gunkote use when they remove the old finish.

BTW, Norrells is the same as KG Gunkote 2400 series.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top