What reason do you have for wanting your front strap modified? Is this cosmetic, functional, or both?
I think scallops look really cool, but the one gun I handled that had them did not impress me as adding anything significant to the gripping of the gun. Do note my sample size was just one.
Vertical serrations also did not seem to improve grip as the serrations paralleled the direction of muzzle flip torque.
Horizontal serrations are something I have not seen, but would help with muzzle flip torque, but I don't know if it would look good or not.
Stippling is nice in appearance and does add some additional gripping capabilities without snagging clothing, and it can be done in some neat patterns by a skilled person, but the amount of added grip is not substantial as compared to checkering, but better than scalloping - IMHO.
Grip/skateboard/friction tape is something I really like because you can cut it to whatever pattern you like, take if off if you don't like it, it comes in different amounts of grit or grit size, and for the $150-300 you spend for checkering or scalloping, you could get 150-300 panels of grip tape cut for your gun. I think this is a really good alternative that is extremely functional. It is not highly regarded as being attractive by most folks, however.
My personal guns have 30 lpi checkering. With 30 lpi, grip is improved significantly over a bare front strap and still provides good grip capabilities for wet or sweating hands and does not seem to be too aggressive at snagging on clothing. To help cut down on snagging, have the checkering on the front strap and main spring housing stop 1/8" short of the bottom edge and the little corners of the checkering won't be there to snag clothing. One of the problems with checkering is that if you go someplace like Thunder Ranch or Gunsite and do a lot of gun handling and shooting and have white collar hands, you will get blisters. Checkering can do some nasty things to your hands. By day 2 at TR, a few of us had white medical taped around each segment of several fingers. By the end of the week, most people had fingers wrapped. If I am ever in a gun fight, chances are I am not going to be shooting several hundred rounds through my 1911 such that would cause blisters so that isn't an issue for real world application, but can be for training when you handle the gun much more than you would at any other time. This is especially true for 20 lpi.
If you have really tough hands, have to wear gloves much of the time, or are often in situations where your hands might be wet with some fluid and you want no nonsense grip capabilities that even works under the worst circumstances, 20 lpi is the way to go. At 20 lpi, your hands could be slick with water, oil, or blood and because the little pyramids are tall enough, they have tremendous bite into the hand (or glove). Basically, the points can literally pierce the top layers of skin. Talk about grip improvement! Given the time my hands spend on a keyboard, I probably would not be doing too well after shooting 50 or 100 rounds with 20 lpi checkering, but the grip would be solid. I know a guy with callouses than can regularly shoot his 1911 with 20 lpi checkering, but even he doesn't like to do it all day long. 20 lpi will also tend to snag clothing more than 30 lpi. If I could afford it, I would have two identical guns made, one with 30 lpi for summer carry and one with 20 lpi for winter carry when I would be most likely to be wearing gloves. If I knew I was going to be in a gun fight, I would make a point to take the gun with the 20 lpi checkering.