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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an RIA frame that has a well out of spec trigger track for the shoe...vertically. Every trigger I've tried is too loose from the get go.

Options:

Find an oversized trigger and fit it....if they exist?

Silver solder some shim stock to the shoe, and fit from there?

Drill/tap for some set screws in the shoe, locktite, and fit from there?

JB weld? Say it aint so!

Anything else?
 

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I recently fit an STI trigger into a Foster/Caspian single stack frame and had to remove material from the top and bottom to get it to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have tried 2 STI triggers, one with the nylon shoe that is certainly oversized to begin with...still loose. I ended up putting into another pistol, and it required some fitting and am very happy with it. The other one that has an aluminum shoe, still too loose.

With this RIA frame, Wilson trigger ...no go. Fusion trigger , no go. I have a couple others that are also too loose, but I don't recall who made them.

When I called RIA about this, they only offered to fit a trigger if I sent the pistol back to them. No thanks, I'd rather handle it myself....cuz, well, that's what I do!
 

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To keep it light, I'd drill and install a piece of an aluminum "dowel" in the top and bottom. Secure with Loctite. File to fit.
 

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You could do the same thing with an aluminum screw...set it and file (mill) away the top.
 

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I have a para ordnace warthog with the nylon trigger shoe. It has vertical play as well. Can drilling into the top and placing a set screw be done on a nylon shoe was well?
 

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aikidoka,
It would depend on how much material you have there to play with. Is the nylon trigger shoe solid or skelitonized(have big holes in it)?
It would be best if the set screw bottoms out in the nylon, so you don't have to worry about it coming loose.
 

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aikidoka,
It would depend on how much material you have there to play with. Is the nylon trigger shoe solid or skelitonized(have big holes in it)?
It would be best if the set screw bottoms out in the nylon, so you don't have to worry about it coming loose.
It is skelotonized. I'll have to strip it down again to see how much material there is and where.

Ok, just checked. I could probably fit a small short set screw in the back. I'm thinking the same size as the overtravel screw.
 

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The setscrew deal will work but is the tunnel cut worthy of the work and small bearing surface?Polish the bow track and swage the bow for vertical fitting.
 

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I fixed one using short pieces of nylon dowel in the top and bottom of the trigger. Don't remember where the dowel came from. It was about .250 diameter IIRC. It made for a snug fit with very little resistance.
 

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A friend brought me his Autoord with a similar issue...It wasn't bad to me as I've been shooting so many 1911's over 40 years it dosen't both me unless it binds the trigger.

Anyway it bother him..I didn't have spare trigger so I peened the top and bottom of the trigger bow on both sides. Front, middle and rear dimples, (3) points on each side top and bottom. And carefully stoned them to fit the frame trigger slot. Took maybe an hour and careful fitting.. He shoots it often and the last time I saw him the trigger was still good for him.

Not sure how bad your slop is but this work for him.

Be safe:cool:
 

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A friend brought me his Autoord with a similar issue...It wasn't bad to me as I've been shooting so many 1911's over 40 years it dosen't both me unless it binds the trigger.

Anyway it bother him..I didn't have spare trigger so I peened the top and bottom of the trigger bow on both sides. Front, middle and rear dimples, (3) points on each side top and bottom. And carefully stoned them to fit the frame trigger slot. Took maybe an hour and careful fitting.. He shoots it often and the last time I saw him the trigger was still good for him.

Not sure how bad your slop is but this work for him.

Be safe:cool:
What are good tools to peen the bow with? I might try this, rather than drill into the shoe. I have a fine diamond hone and stone and a #2 swiss file. Are those ok to fit with once the bow is peened?
 

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Maybe I'm not doing it "right", but I fit triggers with lapping compound...

I now await the slings and arrows of why that's not the "right" way to do it, but it makes triggers good enough for me! :)

kestrou
 

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Ok:
To peen I took and taped the bow of the trigger down atop a vice avil. That way I could mark my strike points easier. And you need the bow supported against a really hard surface.

I then took a broad nail set punch placed half way over the mark point and used a 3 lb. Ball peen hammer..I placed two strikes per marked spot to get a nice raise length. Repeat at all marked points. Remove trigger and retape the other side of the bow down and repeat marking, etc. Now try and fit the trigger. It trial and error..

Good luck..

Be safe:cool:
 
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