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I'm looking seriously at getting a SS gun. Is the Wilson Ultima Grease a good lube for the rails? What do you use on SS rails? Also, Is high dollar lube or grease going to be any better than Break Free CLP? Also, if you have and AR15, do you use grease on the bolt carrier?
 

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I've only used the Wilson grease once (borrowed some from a buddy), but boy does it work well. I use Breakfree CLP on my stainless gun, but I'll be switching over to some sort of grease in the next week (now that we have our lovely 100 degree days).

The Wilson grease is good stuff. I would imagine the other high dollar greases work similarly well. What I'll be doing, though is running over to Home Depot and getting a big 'ol tube of white lithium grease for about $2.

By-the-bye, a little grease goes a llllllooooooonnngggggggg way.

Billy Ray
 

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Have you ever used Lubriplate? I have, but not for guns. I saw Brownells has it in stock as well as the local auto parts store. Is it the same stuff?
 

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I don't know about Lubriplate, but any white, Lithium grease should be fine for your gun. The Wilson stuff may have some special compounds, but in the end, the 20oz for $2 at Home Depot and the 4oz for $5 from Wilson do exactly the same thing.

Billy Ray
 

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What you use is not quite as important as when you use it - especially on S/S. Galling can occur easier on S/S unless you keep the gun adequately lubed. I would suggest a synthetic-based lube, simply because they tend to stay on the gun longer when the gun gets hot. Any good brand name lube will work (and you'll soon have a good sized collection of the various "wonder-lubes" on your workbench), and you will develop a preference for one of them. You may even want to get in touch with Billy Ray and start buying your lithium grease by the 40 gallon drum - there is probably significant cost savings in purchasing in bulk.
 

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I shoot a stainless pistol, and I use both the Wilson Ultima lube Grease and Oil. The Grease works very well, but my pistol is pretty tight and I prefer to use the oil on the slide rails. I really like the oil, it's slick, it is pretty thick so it stays put well, and it cleans up easily.
I spoke with one of the guys at Kimber about lubing SS. The one thing they reccomend is to use a lube with teflon. That being the case there are a lot of good options, Rem oil, Break Free, Tetra lube, etc. Just be sure to shake them up really well as the teflon will settle to the bottom. The wilson oil does contain a small amount according to wilson.

People mention galling often with SS, but if you lube you pistol often, you aren't going to have any problems provided you use a halfway decent oil or grease.
 

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A two-step procees has been effective for both of my Stainless Gov't .45s. First, a light to medium-light coat of Tetra Gun lube applied with a hobby paint brush (three or four full-lenght strokes). I follow this up with a generous application of Breakfree, laying a bead of lube down. There is some excess lube to wipe off at the rear of the gun. Does this cause the gun to be dirtier than normal? Probably so, but it gets cleaned after each use. It is rare to go above 200-300 rounds in either a major match or a practice session. So, it cannot get too dirty anyway. Living in the desert requires once a week applying a drop or two in each rail and the same on the barrel for the barrel/bushing lube.
 

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Originally posted by Robb:
Is lithium the secret ingredient in the modern lubes? What exactly is the purpose or benefit of lithium opposed to pertoleum based lube?

Thanks...

Robb
Lithium or molybdenum (moly) are top-grade lubricants found in most synthetic oils. The main benefit to using synthetics is that they don't break down under load or friction (heat). They maintain their consistency better, and don't burn off or evaporate as easily as petroleum based products.
 
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I have tried most of the lubes out there and always come back to CLP/Breakfree, I have a few S/S 1911s and have never experienced a galling problems using CLP/breakfree.
 

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Lubriplate on slide rails, CLP on the rest of the wear parts. I have a all SS Colt and a SS alloy Colt. Always works just fine. A 14oz tube is cheap at around $3.00 and will last me a life time. After each shooting session I wipe clean all the grease off the rails and apply new grease.
 

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Shane
great point
often guys lube the rails and barrel/bushing area and bottom lugs but forget the top of the barrel where it rides inside the slide.
geo ><>

(they gaul where the letters are stamped in the top of the chamber, slide and barrel)
 

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I use Break-Free "LP". This is marked "Lubricant/Preservative". LP is Break-Free with no cleaning agent. The cleaning agent that Break-Free CLP uses is Break-Free Bore Cleaner. Break-Free CLP is a good all around product. However, Break-Free CLP dries out a bit too quick. Break-Free LP is very long lasting and very good lubricity. Break-Free Lubricant Preservative is recommended for stainless steel/semi-automatic firearms.


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I have tried a lot of lubes in the past Outers, Castrol, Hoppes, Rem-oil, etc. So far, I find Wilson Ultima Lube to work best. As what the others have stated, it goes a long way and even with the century mark temperatures we are having here in Texas currently, it holds up.

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I have been using the Wilsons oil and grease with good results. I use the white grease mostly on the slide rails, lugs, etc. and never had any problems on my Wilson gun.
However, during a shooting session with my stainless Kimber, I had several reloads that didn't want to go completely to battery. While cycling the gun, the slide seemed awfully sluggish like the spring was worn out. After cleaning the Kimber, it cycled just like new again. My problems seemed to be related to TOO much grease in the rails of the Kimber.
A little grease goes a long way. More is not always better.

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