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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.

I have a Colt 1991A1 that I really love. I try to be as careful as I can with it.

After shooting I field-strip it for cleaning and oiling. I run a mop through the barrel to take out excess powder fouling, then spray it out with Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber. If I've done a lot of shooting, I'll run patches with Gun Scrubber through the barrel, from breech end to muzzle.

I also use some Gun Scrubber on the breech face, too.

Before I reassemble my pistol I use Break-Free CLP on all the parts, going over them with a light coat of oil by hand (using my fingertips). I'm always afraid that if I miss a spot on a particular part which I handled that the oil from my skin could start corrosion going.

Before I put the pistol back together, I use 1 or 2 drops of Break-Free Greased Lightning on the parts of the frame where the slide travels (a drop in the grooves). After re-assembly, I put 1 drop of Greased Lightning on the barrel bushing and 1 drop of Greased Lightning on the part of the barrel where it's exposed by the extraction port.

* My problem is this:

I leave my pistol out when I'm at home in case I suddenly need it, and daily there's always oil seeping out of it in certain places. If I take it oit and shoot it, there's even more oil seeping out, everywhere. Obviously, I'm using too much.

I'm not sure what to do. It's dry here and I don't carry my pistol around too much (but I do carry it some), but still I worry about corrosion from the oil in my skin. Especially when I handle parts during disassembly and reassembly.

Can you knowledgeable gentlemen please help me to oil my pistol properly? I'm using too much, but I'm scared of using too little.

What should I do..?

t.i.a...

Doc

[This message has been edited by Dr. Johnny Fever (edited 08-13-2001).]
 

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Your main problem may be that you want to use grease in some areas, instead of oil. Slide rails, barrel bushing and barrel locking lugs are good places for grease. These are the highest wear areas in a 1911, so you want something thicker there anyway, so it stays put longer and lubricates better.

The other metal to metal areas may need just a bit less of a bath. Besides too much oil making your gun a slippery eel, it can actually attract and hold fine dirt and grit which will act as a mild abrasive over time.
 

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Dr Fever, toss the break free and switch to Rem-oil, 3 bucks for an aerosol can at Wal Mart. It will do all that break free does but dries and leaves a thin teflon film on all parts. You should grease the areas that Shane45 mentioned.... .02
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Q:

Where are the barrel locking lugs? How can I identify them?

Q2:

Also, where can I get the Wilson's grease?

Q3:

I'll dump CLP for Rem Oil if you guys think that would be better. I thought CLP left a teflon coating, too.

Was I wrong in that belief..?

Thanking you again for your help...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh yes, another question in addition to the three listed above.

Should I find some way to get all of this oil off my pistol and start over? Or no?

If yes, what should I do?
 

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Doc,

The locking lugs are the grooves cut into the barrel. There are corresponding grooves cut into the slide that the barrel locks into.



Wilson's UltimaLube oil and grease are good. www.wilsoncombat.com or www.brownells.com .

The choice of lubes is very subjective and personal. Most of the brand name ones (including CLP) work fine. You'll find your own favourite over the course of time. Your workbench will be cluttered with all the "wonderlubes" in no time.

I would field strip (and detail strip if you know how) and remove as much as the old oil as possible with a degreaser (automotive brake cleaner will work fine). Re-apply whatever lube you decide to go with.
 

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Remove the stocks before "gushing" down the pistol with GunScrubber or brake cleaner. Use teh brake cleaner, $1.98 v. $8.00 or so.

Take a look at http://www.midwayusa.com or http://www.dillonprecision.com for gun cleaning stuff.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
MOLON LABE
Leonidas c 480 BC
FFF
 

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5 drops !!! Been lubing 1911`s with 5 drops of good gun oil since 1960, has not let me down yet..
1 drop muzzel end of barrel
1 drop locking lugs and hood of barrel
1 drop on disconnector rail
1 drop each frame rail
Rub it around with your finger tip on the barrel and disconnector rail, wipe down the whole pistol with a silicon rag. Oil will evaporate, carry pistol should be done weekly..Just my 2 cents worth........
 

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i have a pal in le that was into soaking his gun in oil. everything was oily.....his slide, the grips, the trigger the ammo....and he kept complaining that the thing was slipping outta his hands while shooting, and he needed to get some finger-grooved-grips to help with the prob. he still dunks the gun in oil...ammo and all. makes me scared to think of what would happen if he ever had to use it in the feild. just use enough oil to prevent friction in all the places that show wear.use a patch to apply it, instead of your fingers, so you have a little control over how much is applied. rem oil is cheaper, so if you're strapped for cash, use it. i've used it for years and it's just fine. later.
 

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Just when I think I've heard 'em all...That might be a new emergency technique...

That guns dirty!

...Quick! Get the bucket!

...wheeew....that was close


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>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<

I Like The Shade Too!
 

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Another problem with over lubed firearms, they tend to throw gunk all over the place. Slosh 'em up well with oil and fire a few rounds, your clothing, and body parts ain't goning to be quite as clean as before you fired.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
MOLON LABE
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FFF
 

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Clean with CLP. Grease the slide rails (don't use too much) and then rub a greased Qtip over the areas mentioned by Shane45-1911 and gunny 6.

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, this is great info and a wonderful education! Thanks very, very much guys -- I really appreciate it!


Another question, if you don't mind.

Q: where is the disconnector rail and what does it look like?

(BTW, Shane, THANKS for the picture -- that's like gold for me and I'm really grateful!)

Thanking you again, men.

Doc
 

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Doc,
I like pictures too!!!


Here's about the best I could find that shows the disconnector rail. It's easy to find though. Flip your slide upside down and look for the cut-out "half-moon" notch that is cut into that part of the slide. (Located back by the firing pin end of the slide). That notch is cut into the rib, which is your disconnector rail. A light coating of grease or oil along the whole length of this rail will help.




[This message has been edited by shane45-1911 (edited 08-14-2001).]
 

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DJF, may I suggest two other web sites for you to visit?
http://www.m1911.org

and
http://www.sightm1911.com

You can find instructions for detail stripping your 1911 at both sites as well as a listing of the parts.

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
MOLON LABE
Leonidas c 480 BC
FFF
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Great! Thanks, Shane!

Now, which would you recommend: the grease, or the oil?

Or, should I use the grease on the critical areas you mentioned, and RemOil everywhere else?

Or, no oil, just grease..?

Sorry to seem like such a bonehead. But, I'm relatively new and just want to do the best thing for my pistola.

Thanks again..!
 
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