Yes CLP can be used to lube your 1911. Clean Lube Protect it does it all.

 

In the Army, nothing but Breakfree CLP (today's formula might differ from the stuff we had in the 1980s) touched our M16A1 rifles and I don't recall all that many stoppages. I never had any in 5 years of training and qualifying on the ones issued to me, but did observe a few around me. It might not have had anything to do with the CLP.

Breakfree CLP is good stuff but I like something thicker, such as motor oil, on my 1911s.

 

GunBugBit, what is the reason for preferring oil to CLP? Oil is thicker, does that make it more resistant to small particles jamming the slide up? Does oil evaporate more slowly? Just curious...

 

In my opinion, Breakfree CLP is a bit thin and not that great of a lube, especially for use on a new, tightly fit 1911. However, I ran one of my looser-fit 1911s on Breakfree CLP after it was broken in, with no problems. Many guys do that as well, and all is good for them, too.

I ran my SKS and one of my ARs on only automatic transmission fluid for a couple thousand rounds, no problems. I both cleaned and lubed with the ATF. I continue to use ATF as my main firearm cleaner, and I leave a light coating on all but the outside of the gun for the protective properties it has. It's not bad as a lube, either.

I've never personally had a slide jam up, whether the gun was quite dry or oiled with whatever lube I was using at the time. But I do know of a brand new Dan Wesson 1911 that was lubed with Breakfree CLP, and there was a some damage to the barrel lugs upon shooting it, and the manufacturer told the owner he should have used the oil that came with the gun. There is an old thread about it on this forum; maybe you can find it. So at least one gun maker believes it DOES matter what lube you use on a new, tight gun. Dan Wessons aren't as tight out of the box as Les Baers from what I gather, but they are plenty tight.

I see that Weapon Shield CLP continues to be available, and I haven't been able to find people saying bad things about it. I used it and found it to be very good. If you want a non-toxic CLP, this is one to look at.

Many things will work. Do your own research, make your own observations.

 

I'm sure it works fine as a basic lubricant, but for my 1911's, or for any of my autoloaders that is, I use grease on the rails. CLP for a light oiling. For the heavy stuff, like metal on metal on the 1911, I don't use anything but grease. I put grease on the rail grooves on the slide, and lightly oil the rail guides on the frame. Works great.

 

I use Amsoil 5W-30 full synthetic on my 1911s (everything else too)it works very well. Though I have been thinking of trying grease on the slide rails.

 

I've yet to find a gun lube that didn't work. I, like a lot of people, use Mobil 1 for my gun lube now and have for some years.

 

I won't use CLP purely because of an experience I had in the Navy. When CLP first came out we started using on our firearms. For those of you not familiar with the Navy ways, they use the Planned Maintenance System or PMS, which is a system of taking apart everything that was working so it can be reassembled in a non-working configuration. We failed a PMS inspection because the 1911's weren't "oily enough" and CLP Breakfree was not on the approved list. The next quarterly force revision to the PMS system included CLP Breakfree as the preferred lubricant! It may be the greatest thing since sliced bread, but from that day forward, I'll use almost anything else short of WD-40 on my firearms.

 

CLP OK, I use shooters choice grease on my 1911 rails
from their little plastic syringe
and Castrol gtx 5W20 on my AR-15

 

I've been using lucas gun oil that stuff is slicker than snot.Makes my vbob feel like the slide is on glass,very slick.Anybody else use this stuff?

 

What, you mean the stuff that suspiciously resembles repackaged ATF?

 

i too am not a fan of clp,except for cleaning it is not what i would use to lube my gun.mobile 1,fp10,milltec,hoppies oil all are above clp in my book.there are lots of reports of dw's siezing up during break in from using clp.search keithdw to see he dosent recommend clp for any dw.he should know he builds them.
pete

 

Mil-Comm TW25B synthetic grease. Stays put.Lasts a long time.

 

Since this is in the DW forum, I am figuring you are talking about using it on a DW.

CLP is ok for cleaning but use the oil the manufacturer sent or something like fp10 for lubing.

 

Grease is great is theory. In reality, guns get dirty when shot. Has anyone noticed what happens to grease around dirt? It grabs it like a magnet. So what happens when you mix dirt and grease? It becomes a gritty paste, which is just like lapping compound. Would you lubricate with lapping compound?

Oil will also attract dirt but the dirt still has the ability to move around, rather than to be trapped.

Grease isn't bad. I have some looser autos that I have used it for. This gives the dirt more room to move and makes the slide feel tighter. However, for a tight 1911 I only recommend DW rail lube, FP-10 or Militec 1. There may be other good choices out there but these have been proven here.

Oils such as Rem oil, Hoppe's and the like, I only recommend for the surface and small moving parts.

Also, Beware of gun cleaners such as CLP that is not polymer safe. Though our Duty finish is not Polymer these "gun scrubbers" will damage the look of our Duty finish. Using oil as a cleaner is all you need. A little oil, nylon brush and elbow grease does wonders. Kroil, btw, is a great oil cleaner. It will even remove copper fouling from your barrel. Bench rest shooters have been using it for years.

 

Straight from the horse's mouth. Thanks Keith!

 

Grease is great is theory. In reality, guns get dirty when shot. Has anyone noticed what happens to grease around dirt? It grabs it like a magnet. So what happens when you mix dirt and grease? It becomes a gritty paste, which is just like lapping compound. Would you lubricate with lapping compound?

Oil will also attract dirt but the dirt still has the ability to move around, rather than to be trapped.

Grease isn't bad. I have some looser autos that I have used it for. This gives the dirt more room to move and makes the slide feel tighter. However, for a tight 1911 I only recommend DW rail lube, FP-10 or Militec 1. There may be other good choices out there but these have been proven here.

Oils such as Rem oil, Hoppe's and the like, I only recommend for the surface and small moving parts.

Also, Beware of gun cleaners such as CLP that is not polymer safe. Though our Duty finish is not Polymer these "gun scrubbers" will damage the look of our Duty finish. Using oil as a cleaner is all you need. A little oil, nylon brush and elbow grease does wonders. Kroil, btw, is a great oil cleaner. It will even remove copper fouling from your barrel. Bench rest shooters have been using it for years.

 

Grease is great is theory...

A post so nice, he posted it twice.

Your company makes great 1911s, Keith!

 

I have tried Militec, CLP, Ballistol and grease. The best thing I have found is synthetic ATF, no odor either.

 

I've used Breakfree CLP since the 80s. Had no problems with my issue M16A1 or my issue 1911. Don't have any problem with it on my polymer guns either. I don't like using grease but do on my HiPoints where the slide meets the frame. I have seen a lot of people over lubricate which seems to cause more problems. I clean after every range session (at least once a week in the summer). Every gun will have a lube it doesn't like, CLP works for me.

 

You use CLP on your Dan?

 

This is great info, thanks to all who contributed (and especially Keith at DW!)

 

I only use it to clean. I'll hose down the bolt and buffer on my AR's though, works fine but it's not nearly as tight as a DW slide/frame.

With anything that's not recommended, you're going to have a few who have done it for years with no problems and see no reason to change. Hey, if it works for you, keep on trucking.

 

Dan Wesson is a bit rich for me. I've shot a few and didn't think they were "all that and a bag of chips" (mmmm chips). All my c&r guns though. My 1911 that I built, all my polymer guns and steel. Even my HiPoint except for where the frame contacts the slide, it likes a thin coat of grease.

 

No one really cares if you think they are all that and a bag of chips.

Why would you make a recommendation that goes against the manufacturer's, given that you don't even own a Dan Wesson?

 

I use break free. I'm also in the army and use CLP for full autos. Works great smells awful lol

 

Hoppes and clp. Great

 

Kartsman, you take things to serious. Why take my personal opinions and turn it into something it isn't. Read again, I didn't see what all the hubub was regarding Dan Wesson 1911s. I didn't say they suck, they are great guns, I like the revolvers. I've shot plenty of 1911s, I can't afford to spend Dan Wesson money on a Remington budget. Maybe you cam sell me a DW for the same as a R1 so I can send 1000 rounds through it, nifty change my mind. It's all MY opinions, if you don't like it you don't need to be nasty about it.

 

Stop being so sensitive. I wasn't nasty, just pointing out that this was not an opinion on Dan Wessons thread. If you took the time to notice, the thread was posted in the Dan Wesson forum, therefore one could figure that it was related to DWs.

The manufacturer advises against using CLP and states such a few posts above yours. Most DW owners know this. A newbie may not know this and posts such as yours do not help.

 

I like CLP and use it on my Vbob AFTER the break-in period, and now that the lube that came with my Vbob is gone. CLP, while thin and light, and seemingly evaporates too quickly, does leave a thin layer of teflon dry-lube, after a while that thin layer forms a kind of lubricating protective barrier. Or so my TM for the M16, M249, and what-have-you, and CLP care-guide (I don't know what it is exactly called) states. I was thinking about making a CLP/motor-oil blend, but modern motor-oils have detergents that might remove the teflon coating.

...but then again, I might just buy some DW rail lube and call it a day.

 

I also think CLP is too thin for rails on a 1911. Maybe three years ago, there were some threads here of DW stainless guns (CBobs I think) that locked up. Several used CLP. I use Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 full synthetic but FP-10 or Militec-1 gun oil will do very well.

 

Sometimes I use CLP as part of the cleaning. But I wipe it off, even in the tight places. Then use FP 10, or Militech, or FrogLube oil, mostly Militech.