FM 23 35

 

@The Wizard keeps it simple and to the point. That FM is a good guide.

However, lubrication technology has advanced since the 1940 publication date. These days I prefer using synthetic lube rather than sperm oil.

The thing to remember is that this is not a Glock. It's an all steel combat pistol. As such it loves oil. Unless it's being used in sub-zero temperatures be liberal with the oil. Some say there shouldn't be any standing oil puddles while others say you'll know there's enough oil when you get oil splashed in your face with every shot.

Don't get hung up on lubrication. Use more than the couple of drops Glock recommends but don't waste oil by making it dripping wet. You'll get the hang of it soon enough.

Some folks use grease in specific areas but that's personal preference. As the old saying goes, "If it feels good, do it."

 

... The thing to remember is that this is not a Glock. It's an all steel combat pistol. As such it loves oil.

Some of us have been shooting 1911s 20 years before Glock was ever conceived. So its like comparing apples to oranges and some people have zero experience with Glocks. Just an FYI

 

^^^^^^^This, well said and to the point.

 

Here are three video's I like. They are all a little different, and use different products, but they all work. Pick what you like and discard the rest.

Dave Anderson - note at the end how he lubes without field stripping, a handy tip

Hickok45 with Ballistol

Wilson Combat

 

More oil that I use. 3 drops spaced on the rails and bout the same on barrel end and barrel hood.

 

Oh my what a lot of help you’ve provided me by this link! Thank you very much Sir!

I’m hoping sperm oil is whale oil? Any modern equivalent will do I’m thinking.

 

We have this thread that may be helpful, or not.

Lubricants and Cleaning Products and Techniques

What do you guys use to lube your slides and does it matter; steel, aluminum or poly.? Thanks

www.1911forum.com

 

Good videos! Y’all have given me many, many hours of entertainment!

 

[QUOTE="jtq post

Dave Anderson - note at the end how he lubes without field stripping, a handy tip
[/QUOTE]
Noted . That man knows his firearms

 

There is more than one right way to clean/lubricate a pistol. There are wrong ways as well.

My technique has always been to use Break-Free CLP inside and out, making sure everything has a good film of oil on it. Pivot points get a few drops of it and the slide/frame rails actually get grease. Not saying my way is the best, but it's been working for me for 40+ years without any issues.

 

I am a big fan of Tri-Flow.

TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE – Triflow Lubricants

Tri-Flow Lubricants, Greases & Degreasers are the preferred choice of biking enthusiasts everywhere. And our new website was designed specifically for you - so you could easily find the product you need to keep you going.

www.triflowlubricants.com

 

One thing you must remember, Gun steel is different than other machines. Your pistol is not a trashing machine or automobile. Excess oil leaking out of the pistol only attracts more dirt and burnt gun powder.
That said, rapid fire on drills will require heavy oil that will stand the heat and maybe even more of it. Kinda depends on how you are shooting and number of rounds during a session.

 

I like CLP too. I’ll lightly grease the slide points too . Thanks!

 

I use firepower-10. Not the Outers or what-not but true firepower-10 from Muscle products. According to Muscle products, it's not the same as the FP-10 you find in walmarts or local stores. Been using it and nothing else on every gun I have for past 20+ years. Used to use Lubriplate on slide., haven't seen that in many years. Take care of it and lube properly, probably doesn't matter much what it is.

 

Yeah, thanks for reminding me of that point. I think my takeaway is well lubed but not dripping wet. ‘Bout same as I do for my Bettas.

 

Muscle products I’ve seen posted here today. I’m going to the website but right now I’ve got plenty of lube products to use up.

 

As previously stated, we all seem to develop our own preferred oiling routine. Unless it’s a new or very old pistol, I normally just put a few drops on the rail and blast away, but that’s only because the pistol was lubed in the critical areas after field stripping from the last range trip.

If I’m breaking in a new pistol or shooting an old one, I’ll lube the rails at the range every 50-100 rounds, but before that, I’ll lock the slide back and put a drop or two in the critical areas, then drop the slide and hit the barrel and barrel hood.

Here’s a few pics.

 

I'm a fan of Wilsons oil/grease blend, Universal Lube II. On the disconnector notch and the slide rails especially. Being a blend it gets in where you want it and then stays put better than plain oil.

 

No one has touched on the classic "idiot mark" on the 1911.

The proof that a private, second lieutenant or a sailor was issued your pistol.

 

If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it.
I prefer to use grease on the rails, especially in a hit climate and when the gun is carried vertically (ie, in a holster) for long periods.

 

If you haven't already seen it, check out this older thread:

Cleaning and storage of collectable pistols

I recently got a question about cleaning and storage of collectable pistols and thought that since everyone seems to have an opinion about how to clean and store collectable pistols, The discussion should make an interesting start to a thread about cleaning and storage. Below is our...

www.1911forum.com

Remember that there are differences between lubricating a 1911 meant for shooting and merely preserving a collectible one to protect the finish. A shooter 1911 only needs a bit of oil on the moving parts. A collectible one meant to stay in the safe needs a complete coat of oil inside and out, preferably an oil that won't quickly evaporate or drain off.

 

Remember that there are differences between lubricating a 1911 meant for shooting and merely preserving a collectible one to protect the finish. A shooter 1911 only needs a bit of oil on the moving parts. A collectible one meant to stay in the safe needs a complete coat of oil inside and out, preferably an oil that won't quickly evaporate or drain off.

+1

I’m a big fan of Breakfree CO Collector preservative. It’s a thick synthetic oil that doesn’t gum up and stays where you put it. They claim that their product will preserve metal for up to 5 years, but I have some pistols that I treated almost 8 years ago. They still look amazing inside and out.

COLLECTOR - 4 OZ. | Brownells

Collector is a long term storage preservative for firearms and other sports equipment. It was developed for the military to protect weapons for up to 5 years in storage. Can be used on all metals and finishes, will not break down to form waxy resi...

www.brownells.com

Another great benefit, is that if its a firearm that you occasionally shoot, just run a dry patch through the barrel and let er rip. No need to disassemble and dengunk, it’s shooter ready.

 

I order my sperm (whale) oil from a place called Pequod's in Massachusetts. The owners name is Ahab but I usually talk with Ishmael to place my order. It take a long time to get here.

 

Oh Lord! I can’t quit 😂

 

Well, I fired it dry straight out the box from CMP. It came very clean with no oil or grease in sight. Shot 50 rounds of Federal American Eagle ball and had several FTFs. It worried me until it dawned on me I needed to maybe lube it.

 

Shot 50 rounds of Federal American Eagle ball and had several FTFs.

If you have any malfunctions with your now well lubed pistol, don't clear the malfunction immediately. Instead, take some close up pictures from several angles showing the malfunction and take special note of the position of the bullet nose relative to the feed ramp and barrel as well as the position if the case rim relative to the extractor claw. Then post the pictures and your description of the malfunction here so folks can diagnose the problem and give you suggestions on how to fix it.

Also take note of which round in the magazine was involved in the malfunction e.g. 2nd round, last round, etc.

 

Well folks, I cleaned and lubricated my WW2 1911A1 using tips from here.

Can’t wait to see if this alone will resolve my failure to feed issue.
Here’s what I did:
1) I applied some little dabs or armorers grease on the slide rails and frame rails
2) I sprayed Breakfree CLP-4 liberally on the barrel, trigger, slide, frame, and magazine.
3) I then used a small toothbrush to spread the oil into the various nooks and crannies (firing pin, trigger assebly, magazine shoot inside frame, spring, etc.)
4) Afterwards, I mopped up excess oil using a white t-shirt rag. Using a cleaning rod, I pushed the cloth into the magazine well to remove excellent cleaner/lube oil from there.
5) I reassembled the parts being careful to properly align the barrel catch either realease pin. Little tricky here but worked easily enough.
6) With magazine removed I operated the slide vigorously back and fort several times, then again with magazine inserted.
7)Can’t wait to shoot it tomorrow!

 

I ordered the 16# spring from Wilson. It comes with another spring. Is the firing pin spring flat forked spring steel part? l didn’t see a description for the second spring.

 

LOTS of Youtube videos on this topic.

 

Roger that. Parts aren’t in yet, just wondering if it is an easy job.