Out of curiousity, were you using a Dillon deprimer/sizing die? I have found they work well for kicking the epent primer off of the decapping pin.
Yeah, the 750 is probably a little much to start out with.
Enjoy, Dillon makes a fine product.

 

@Srgunner, no I was using 40 year old RCBS carbide dies for everything except taper crimp. The taper crimp is the only Dillon die I own. When I realized the depriming problem was the die and not the press, I contacted RCBS. They sent me two new decapping rods, one of which is their spring loaded Pow’r Punch. Unbelievable service for 40 year old dies! The Pow’r Punch works great, but I could have saved some time by just buying Dillon dies. Danny

 

What matters most is that you have the solution. Dillon dies are heavily backordered.

 

Agreed. The press runs like a top now, but it took a lot of fiddling. I consider myself to be mechanically adept, but it wasn’t as easy as Gary makes it seem in the Dillon videos. That is why I would not recommend a progressive press for someone just getting into reloading. Danny

 

. One of the Dillon videos says the fail safe rod needs to be vertical. The rod I was supplied would bind in the two levers on the powder measure long before it got vertical. I probably could have bent it, but decided on a different plan. Remember, I am impatient and can be rather anal... I have a lathe, a milling machine and spent my entire career designing machinery, so I cut the double bend off the rod and threaded the end. I then made a piece to replace the piece I cut off. It works like a champ. The guys at Dillon called it an “elegant” solution.

Outstanding! I've always disliked that "double bend" system. You might consider marketing your solution. There may be others like us.

 

Yes - his solution is similar to, but not identical, to the way the Super 1050 does it. I wish Dillon would replace that double bend design with something like they have on the Super 1050.

 

I started out with a Rockchucker so I guess I knew the steps. I've had a XL650 for over 25 years and I added a 750 a couple years ago. And yes I had the same problem with the failsafe rod, I just re-bent it. I also had a rash of primer drawbacks when I tried using a different sizing die so I went back to the spring loaded Dillon. I bought the 750 in one part because it was suppose to have a better priming system like the 550. But after using it a little I found it really wasn't any better except it didn't continue to feed primers on empty stations. Then I figured out that if I cleaned and tuned the 650 primer system it actually worked better, so now I do all my priming on it (I prime separately) and loading on the 750. I did 3D print a primer shutoff cam for my 650 too and that was a great mod.
I will agree that starting with these progressives can be daunting because there is some tuning and adjusting that has to be done but I load 2-5K rounds at a time and I can't imagine that on a single stage. On the other hand several years ago my brother gave me 12K rounds of 223 that he loaded on his 550, yikes.

 

Yep, we started way back when on a 550, and learned on that, great machine. Very easy to correct any problems. Then graduated to a 650, and still going strong. Did a couple modifications, like the spent primer catch system for example. But all in all, the 650 does a great job, don’t see a need to get the 750 at this time. Dillon makes really good presses, and the staff were always helpful when we were starting out and had any questions.

 

Nothing wrong with starting out on a progressive press like the 750. Just use it as a single stage press until your're comfortable with it and ready to go full progressive. Problem solved. And you won't need to buy another press once you outgrow or dislike the single stage press.

 

I got into reloading 3 years ago with a Dillon 750. There was a bit of a learning curve, but nothing insurmountable. I think the 750 needed a little breaking in as well because things ran smoother after the first 1000 rounds of pistol and rifle ammo.

As @eby1911 said, it can be easily run as a single stage if that makes the new user more comfortable. The 750 will fill all my reloading needs for the rest of my life.

 

A couple of posters have mentioned using the 750 like a single stage. I was thinking that the 750 was auto-index like my 650. If it auto-indexes it's really not the same as single stage.

 

@RetiredRod, I was thinking the same thing. I suppose you could install just one die in the tool head and either pull the case out after that station, or let it continue around until it makes it to the finished round tray? Danny

 

I bought a new XL750 a few months back and have slowly been getting it set up. My wife seems to think there are other projects with higher priority... I started out loading 45acp, and ran into a few problems. Between crushed cases, primers getting pulled back into the pocket, missing primers and a fail safe rod that did not fit right, I wondered if I had made a mistake by moving away from my bulletproof Rock Chucker I bought in the late 70’s. The crushed cases were my fault, as I missed the part about adjusting the cramming pin. The 750 was not set up for a specific round when I got it, as I ordered it with multiple calibers. The primers getting pulled back into the pocket was cured by a spring loaded depriming pin from RCBS. I emailed Dillon (it was a weekend...) and told them of my problems. In the meantime (I do not have a lot of patience...) I looked for solutions. The primer problem was due to the operating rod being out of adjustment and the guide wheel on the primer slide would contact the assembly when retracting. I aligned the operating rod bracket, and it worked fine. But I decided to add a spring between the guide wheel to insure it would not happen again. One of the Dillon videos says the fail safe rod needs to be vertical. The rod I was supplied would bind in the two levers on the powder measure long before it got vertical. I probably could have bent it, but decided on a different plan. Remember, I am impatient and can be rather anal... I have a lathe, a milling machine and spent my entire career designing machinery, so I cut the double bend off the rod and threaded the end. I then made a piece to replace the piece I cut off. It works like a champ. The guys at Dillon called it an “elegant” solution.

I have now run about 1000 rounds (45 and 9mm) through the press and it runs like a champ. I may make a few more modifications, but time will tell. I will say this: I would not recommend this press to anyone getting started in reloading. There are just too many things that can go wrong. But for an experienced reloader, I would highly recommend it.
Sorry about the long-winded post, but need to add, finding ways to disable the case feeder and priming system is a necessity if you need to resolve a problem. Empty 223 cases work like a charm for both! Danny
View attachment 682605

I bought a new XL750 a few months back and have slowly been getting it set up. My wife seems to think there are other projects with higher priority... I started out loading 45acp, and ran into a few problems. Between crushed cases, primers getting pulled back into the pocket, missing primers and a fail safe rod that did not fit right, I wondered if I had made a mistake by moving away from my bulletproof Rock Chucker I bought in the late 70’s. The crushed cases were my fault, as I missed the part about adjusting the cramming pin. The 750 was not set up for a specific round when I got it, as I ordered it with multiple calibers. The primers getting pulled back into the pocket was cured by a spring loaded depriming pin from RCBS. I emailed Dillon (it was a weekend...) and told them of my problems. In the meantime (I do not have a lot of patience...) I looked for solutions. The primer problem was due to the operating rod being out of adjustment and the guide wheel on the primer slide would contact the assembly when retracting. I aligned the operating rod bracket, and it worked fine. But I decided to add a spring between the guide wheel to insure it would not happen again. One of the Dillon videos says the fail safe rod needs to be vertical. The rod I was supplied would bind in the two levers on the powder measure long before it got vertical. I probably could have bent it, but decided on a different plan. Remember, I am impatient and can be rather anal... I have a lathe, a milling machine and spent my entire career designing machinery, so I cut the double bend off the rod and threaded the end. I then made a piece to replace the piece I cut off. It works like a champ. The guys at Dillon called it an “elegant” solution.

I have now run about 1000 rounds (45 and 9mm) through the press and it runs like a champ. I may make a few more modifications, but time will tell. I will say this: I would not recommend this press to anyone getting started in reloading. There are just too many things that can go wrong. But for an experienced reloader, I would highly recommend it.
Sorry about the long-winded post, but need to add, finding ways to disable the case feeder and priming system is a necessity if you need to resolve a problem. Empty 223 cases work like a charm for both! Danny
View attachment 682605

Afternoon.. I know this is a pretty old thread but I just came upon it now. This fix is perfect, and I will try to do the same. After bending the failsafe rod "Z", it is working quite smooth, but with your mod, it should be possible to put the pin in from the opposite side, which will allow me to turn the powder bar clockwise enough to get more clearance at the powder check station, and probably clear the next station if I ever go for a bullet feeder. Thank you very much for sharing this mod.

Marius