Suggestions to get them apart? My thought was to reinstall the bushing in the frame with drop of locktite.

Thoroughly degrease the threads on the bushing and frame first, and good luck.
If the frame threads are in good shape, you might want to consider getting a new bushing, to help avoid the possibility of stripping or cross-threading the frame.

 

Two methods, grip the bushing with narrow jaw pliers so the starting thread is not damaged, carefully Loctite the bushing back into the frame and a couple hours later take the screw out.

LOG

 

If if it already has loctite on them you may need to heat them up a little for them to come out and so you don't strip the threads on the frame. Then reinstall your new ones with some as well.

 

You run the risk of cross threading the bushing in the frame if you try to reinstall while still connected to the screw and grip. Then you will have messed up frame threads and a more significant issue to deal with.
Play it safe and buy a set of thin bushings. They are only a few dollars for the set of 4. Then you can use pliers to remove the stuck one and throw it in the garbage.
Much safer and easier. And then you will have the 3 other in the set as spares for when it happens next time.
If you order from S&A, make sure to order their bushing tool. It is awesome.

 

You run the risk of cross threading the bushing in the frame if you try to reinstall while still connected to the screw and grip. Then you will have messed up frame threads and a more significant issue to deal with.

^^^THIS^^^

not worth the risk of jacking the frame threads for a $2 dollar bushing

..L.T.A.

 

I never bother to try to save a bushing.

Toss it and install a new one.
Properly stake and Lock Tite it. Belt 'n suspenders....

 

Never lost a bushing, and have had many come out with the grip screw when new. Used narrow jaw pliers and held securely, and removed the grip screw. Used Loctite to secure all the bushings, never a problem after. Heavy handed cranking isn't the suggested method of starting a threaded part.

LOG

 

you're not the "average" guy, Log

years of dealing with dozens of different workers has taught me that not all are created equal when it comes to mechanical aptitude

some guys have trouble changing a lite bulb, some are able to build the light fixture...most are somewhere in between

some can't "feel" threads thru the screwdriver and can't tell if just a little resistance or cross threaded

..L.T.A.

 

Always watch for a bushing coming out when removing the screws. If you catch it before it is completely unscrewed from the receiver (you can see it lifting the stock), just tighten it back really tight, then remove the screw. The screw should come out just fine. Stock screws almost never strip when being tightened. They usually strip when being removed. Once the screw and stock are removed, remove and clean the bushing and Loctite the bushing back in place. Be careful to not get Loctite in the bushing inside screw threads or you may really have a mess! This problem can usually be avoided by carefully applying a thin film of oil to the inside bushing threads, then cleaning the outside bushing threads with a little acetone on a piece of cloth (like a cotton patch), then applying the Loctite.

 

Or clean the frame threads. Put some Loctite on a Q-tip and wipe the frame threads.

 

Both times this has happened to me I put some Loctite on the bushing and screwed it back in via the grip screw. Let it sit for a few hours (more is better than less) and then unscrewed the screw.

 

If the manufacturers would stake the bushings in - this wouldn't be happening.

 

But imagine the whining about not being able to easily change the bushings!

 

All very true.

 

I don't know much about 1911 pistols, but I have been dealing with Loctite a long time. A couple of hours isn't going to set the Loctite. Over night and use BLUE; clean good, bushing and hole in frame, alcohol or lighter fluid should do it. If you want to use pliers, you might put a piece of thin leather in the jaws to try to protect the threads on the bushing, or just get that sucker off and trash it. As mentioned above, I wouldn't take a chance of screwing up the frame threads for a $2 bushing.

 

242 Blue Loctite does take a set in 10 minutes, and fully cures in 24 hours, but the shear strength in a couple hours is surprising. I like to always use the primer as well, as Loctite goes off better especially with SS. Alcohol yes, lighter fluid is too oily.

LOG

 

As long as the frame is CS, or SS and not alloy, the frame threads are much harder than the bushing threads, you'd really have to be a goof to be able to screw up the frame threads with a soft bushing. Over tightening a bushing in a steel frame will shear the threads off the bushing. The frame hole will then look stripped, but if you pick the thread out with a pick, they are intact, and the bushing thread resembles a coil.

LOG

 

My concern is - why did the bushing twist out (why is it so tight on the screw)? Did it pick up a thread on assembly and seize the two together?

Suggestions to get them apart? My thought was to reinstall the bushing in the frame with drop of locktite. Hopefully that would then hang onto the bushing and the screw would break free.

That is possible, if you are good. Use Blue, then when it is free re-do it and the other three with Red, so you will be sure it never happens again. (Red will dissolve with a soldering iron, if you ever want to remove one.) Then use Purple on the grip screws themselves, so that you will never have to over-tighten to keep them from coming loose.

 

If you do not have an assortment of hand tools to grab the bushing properly use what ever pliers you have at your disposal, but place a piece of leather around the bushing so you do not damage the threads and back out the screw.

Should be able to hold down on the bushing without a problem to get the two to separate.

Then degrease bushing and frame threads, reloctite, done.

 

Here's the technique I use when removing grip screws for the first time.
First start with correct screw driver. Then put slight clockwise pressure on screw, then immediately turn counter clockwise quickly. The initial clockwise motion combined with the counter clockwise motion almost always works.

 

I wish I would have posted this question before putting the grip back on the gun. The bushing threaded in OK, but I wasn't aware of the possible risk. I will get a new bushing and locktite and get them secured.

Thanks for all the responses.

TR

 

The bushing threaded in OK,

then your golden

..L.T.A.

 

Happened to me, used pliers to hold it, bought new bushing and locketited it in the frame.
it happens.

 

A spare bushing or 2 in your parts bin ain't a bad thing.

 

TRfromMT:

As in all things 1911 there are several solutions to each issue and each must be addresed by the user based on their training, experience and resources as in the above posts.

There are a few things that every 1911 owner should have in their "kit" or parts drawer that streamlines the maintenance and repair process.

A copy of a "1911 Shop Manual" is also helpful.

Replacement:
pin set
spring set, (2@ recoil springs)
grip bushings and screws
mag catch and lock
recoil spring plug
slide stop plunger, safety lock plunger and spring

All these parts are available from Brownells at reasonable prices and quick shipping.

This list might seem elementary to most but I have found that these are the most common parts I've handed out at ranges during training and competitions over the years.

All the best,