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Kinetic Bullet Puller

3.2K views 51 replies 29 participants last post by  craig cujo  
#1 ·
If any of you followed my thread titled "Dillon 750 Problem" you know I had trouble with the decapping die and created a few rounds (10?) with old (used) primers. Since I loaded 200 grain SWC bullets in 45acp, I see no way to pull them short of buying a kinetic bullet puller. I have a collet type puller but see no way it will work on a SWC. So, what are your recommendations for a hammer style puller? I looked at RCBS, FA, Double Alpha, Berry's and others. Are there ones to avoid? Is one better than the rest? Thanks! Danny
 
#5 ·
So, what are your recommendations for a hammer style puller? I looked at RCBS, FA, Double Alpha, Berry's and others. Are there ones to avoid? Is one better than the rest? Thanks! Danny
From what I have seen, just by looks the only difference in any of them is the color.
 
#15 ·
I have used the RCBS for some time (same as the Frankford Arsenal kinetic puller in green instead of blue). It is ok enough if you put some cotton or other padding in the bottom, but the side cutter method is what I use if keeping the bullet is not important. Most of the time it is not worth the extra time & effort of getting undamaged bullets in the kinetic puller.
 
#21 ·
+ 1 on removing the useless collet and o-ring, just toss them strait off the batt.
I found some high density closed cell foam and cut a plug to fit inside to protect tool and bullets.
Definitely add the foam, or "peanuts", etc - and you might find those o-ring collets suck soooo bad that you want: Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool Shellholder Pack of 11

(Yes, I forget them, too - and i will NOW try again to remember... That oring was PISSING ME OFF, the other day)

edit: OH... and there are two useful ways to empty.. Overturned into a spare scale-pan OR a shotglass (plastic is safer)
 
#24 ·
Sometimes they break. Keep in mind RCBS warranties it for life. That is what they just told me a few days ago when I had to order a new cap (got to be careful sometimes when using a shell holder inside of it). Very nice of them to send a replacement part free, for something I’ve had probably for 15 years (when my last one broke).
 
#37 ·
To me, the thing is, whatever the method used, disassembling questionable or bad reloads (or factory, for that matter) is a matter of practical safety. The responsible thing to do is to break them down into component parts, and recycle, either through re use or as inert trash. At one point, over several years, I accumulated a coffee can full of bad reloads. At that point, it became a nasty job. Done as they happen at the end of a reloading session, easy.
 
#38 ·
I'm guessing your primary goal is to save the bullet for ranging, sure. For that type of bullet you are relegated to the hammer game, for ten rounds any of them will do. If you still have a single stage press laying around and you want a more inclusive method for disassembly, then I would look in to a collet insert type puller. With a smaller diameter collet you can probably grab hold of the nose of your SWC and remove it in a more controlled fashion rather that the slam-bang method.
 
#42 ·
I have Frankfort Arsenal that I have had for years. I have never had the need to cushion the bullet, I have not had a bullet damaged from pulling. Some rounds are hard to pull, takes a lot of wacks. I use the side cutter method if I can, it wont work on short rounds because the bullet does not protrude above the top of my RCBS Jr press. The side cutters will leave a indention on both side, but it does not hurt the bullet. I shoot them for practice and can not tell a difference.
 
#44 ·
Random thoughts on inertia bullet pullers: If you are breaking your inertia bullet puller, it clear you're using it wrong! It is NOT a hammer. Use your wrist to drop the hammer-looking device that is not actually a hammer on something solid (I just drop mine on the concrete floor) and bullets should come out easy after tapping it a few times. Technically, you could drill a hole in the handle and just drop the cartridge holder onto something solid and it would work! Smashing the hammer down using your entirre arm will just tire your arm or break the tool. It's true that the heavier the bullet, the easier it is to drop out... it's called "inertia for a reason! The cartridge case stops suddenly and the bullet tries to keep going. If you have crimped rounds, or rounds that have been loaded for a long time (neck weld), just seat the bullet a little deeper with a seating die, then use the inertia puller. .22's are the worst due to their light weight. I can't imagine anything smaller! I've had my 2 RCBS inertia tools (honestly they should drop the "hammer" name completely! It gives people the wrong impression of how to use it) for many years, my oldest over 30 years (the second I aquired in a trade) since I learned the proper way to use them. RCBS will replace broken parts/or complete tools if you break it. Keep the cap on tight and the collet will remain in pristine condition. My oldest puller has the original collet but the o-ring has been replaced due to the rubber rotting from age! If your collet comes apart, set all 3 pieces together on a flat surface and roll the o-ring down over the top for easy assembly. A bit of tissue in the bottom of the cartridge holder will save soft point bullets from being deformed when they hit the hard plastic. Dump the contents of the cartridge holder into a small pan or box to save & reuse the contents... but only if you are absolutely certain of the powder type! I have pulled hundreds (maybe more!) of bullets from .223 up to .338 WM and my tools still look new, other than being a bit dirty. I like the inertia puller because it doesn't leave marks on the bullets. If that doesn't bother you, the side cutters or a collet type puller works probably just a bit faster. Use yours (no matter what brand) properly and it should outlast you by a couple of generations!
Cheers,
crkckr