Try a 200 gr. Hensley and Gibbs style SWC over 5.5 gr. Tight Group. I have shoot thousands of these in all my 45 ACP hand guns. Easy to load and fun to shoot.

 

What's accurate in one pistol might not be in another. I've seen bullets sized .451, .4515, and .452. Experimenting to find the most accurate load for your pistol is part of the learning process, and fun, of reloading.

 

First, find all of the components that are available to you.
I do not recommend messing with a SWC yet..they can be finicky. Just start out with a FMJ RN.
Make several loads beginning at the low end of your data source. Jump up by .2 and make 5 more. Do this perhaps 5 times as long as your load stays below max listed. Shoot through a chrony, you will have no idea without it. You will then have a good idea of which load has the smallest deviation. From there, you can play with accuracy, then you can switch up projectiles using the same process.

 

First, find all of the components that are available to you.
I do not recommend messing with a SWC yet..they can be finicky. Just start out with a FMJ RN.
Make several loads beginning at the low end of your data source. Jump up by .2 and make 5 more. Do this perhaps 5 times as long as your load stays below max listed. Shoot through a chrony, you will have no idea without it. You will then have a good idea of which load has the smallest deviation. From there, you can play with accuracy, then you can switch up projectiles using the same process.
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😆 keep in mind that Kjvav (OP) only has 1K rounds of experience. He’s way better off starting with ball than SWC or HP stuff. That can frustrate the bejesus out of a guy…..😗

Well, most of the experience I have with loading 45acp (maybe 600 rounds) has been poly coated 200gr SWC from Badman bullets over 5.5 gr of Bullseye and I really haven't had any feeding issues. As far as overall length I try do do the "plunk test" in the barrel of the gun I'm using and as long as it's longer that the min. OAL in the manual I'm using I've considered myself good to go.
I really appreciate all the advice here. Someone mentioned using a chronograph to measure the spread in velocity from one round to another. That seems pretty smart (although I don't have one or access to one). Would you guys say that that may be one of the most important factors in accuracy, the spread in velocity from shot to shot? In other words, once I found the powder that was best in that test my search for Powder’s would be over and I could then concentrate on bullet type and weight?

 

The USMC team did well with the 185 gr Nosler JHP and 4.1 gr Vihtavuori N310.
Zero and Hornady bullets are good and other fast burning powder like Bullseye will work.

That said, my most accurate RELOAD was a no longer made brand of cast SWC and a moderate load of Win 231.

 

H&G 68 200 gr SWC has already been suggested as well as WW 231a combination that you will find to be quite accurate say 5.0 to 5.2 grains of either WW231 or HP-38 which are the same powder just different containers. You didn't mention if you cast your own if not look for a cast bullet maker that has a close facsimile of the HG 68 and you'll be happy.

 

Accurate molds 45-200H is a very good clone and Toms molds are a work of art.

 

You said accurate loads. I bench a lot in my older years. I have tested lots of powders over the years and still come back to Bullseye when things are said and done. When it gets serious I drag out my old Fred Kart bullseye 1911 made in the early 70's. Bullseye--E3--American Select and Titegroup--are about all I load anymore in 45acp. Most people don't shoot over 50 yards. I drag the gun out every 2-3 years to check the 0. . A 200 grain H&G 50 is what this was shot with. The Lyman 452460 200 grain flat base is good also and I have these molds. I'm still trying to beat the 4.5 Bullseye load.

. I got this gun from a shooting buddy before he went to the old folks home who was on the Coast Guard shooting team on Governors Island and Fred Kart tuned his pistols. They were in the same area. Forgive the Goodyears- They shoot better for Me.

 

I came up with a load using Nosler's 185 grain Custom Competition driven by 4.8 grains of Bullseye for my first 5" 1911. It also works really well in my other four, and will probably work really will in any future 1911s I own. I use Remington or Starline nickel plated brass for this load.

The same situation exists with a load using Unique to drive 230 grain Gold Dots. This one's a max +P load, so I'm not going to give the powder charge.

 

Best group I ever shot was with a Springfield Mil Spec. It was an FMJ bullet (don’t remember the brand), but I do remember the powder and charge: 4.7 grs of Bulls Eye!

 

I used to shoot higher charges of Bullseye but dropped back to 4.5 for the most accurate. I have one 1911 set up with 3.5 grains of Bullseye. I have an aluminum LEE 200 grain H&G 68 style mold that the base wasn't round and filed the bevel off and now weighs 188 grains and does good as anything I've tried. James Clark senior<Clark guns>before he passed on told two of my shooting buddies he shot 5 grains of Bullseye in bowling pin matches.

 

I’d go 5 grs for pins; you need all the umph you can for clearing pins. I’ve got a real light target load with Berry’s plated using Titewad at 3.7, but I don’t have a super accurate 1911 like the Mil Spec I had years ago—every pistol is different and sometimes you just get lucky with a good combination!

 

😆 keep in mind that Kjvav (OP) only has 1K rounds of experience. He’s way better off starting with ball than SWC or HP stuff. That can frustrate the bejesus out of a guy…..😗

 

I like a 200 gr SWC (Laser Cast or Precision are my "go to") over 4.0 Grains of Hodgdon's CLAYS.

 

Ya gotta have a chrony in your equipment inventory! At least that’s my approach. The smallest deviation in velocity gets you “close” to the best accuracy. It doesn’t always = it though. Along that road you will determine exactly where you are in comparison to published load data. You are now ready to whittle away at the finer points….OAL, Headstamp, type of projectile, this powder, that powder, and since it’s Christmas, a partridge in a pear tree!

 

Thanks, I guess I need to get a chronograph (don't you just hate buying shooting equipment?😁).
I would have thought that projectile weight and type would have been the most important aspect of a load, but the standard deviation makes sense.
I appreciate the advice.

 

I've had pretty good luck in the accuracy department with 6.2 grains of Hodgdon CFE, Speer 230 grain copper plated round nose bullet in Starline brass and CCI large pistol primers.

 

Let’s not forget that the same load does not shoot the same in a different gun. That is the reason the generic load in cheap target fodder off the shelf is awful. A tiny tweak to the loads mentioned above may yield far better results in a different weapon. A chrony can be had for $100……it really does tell you a lot. I will say though, the scale is far more important, but it’s not a “one or the other” discussion.🙂

 

the most accurate load is the one you tailor for your gun and your shooting style

 

I guess more than "what would be the most accurate load" I should be asking "what are the steps to finding the most accurate load".

 

Now ya got it!!
There is no replacement for “laddering” loads. One other piece of advice….if you can afford VV powder and have access to it, that’s not a bad place to start! I can’t shoot that good anymore…..

 

What is "laddering"? And by VV do you mean Vihaturi powder (I probably spelled that wrong)?

 

Yes, and laddering is slowly increasing groups of loads from bottom to perhaps 3/4 maximum of the published data. Example, 5 rounds each @ 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8 & 5.0. That’s just an example, NOT actual data for anything. Carefully record the velocity of each round in a group. Notice the deviation between low and high in each group. As you work through each group, you will notice a tighter deviation somewhere in there. That is a good place to start fine tuning and go back and do the same with .1 increments, this time paying attention to grouping on a target.
All of this depends on your reloading practices. Take your time, make sure you are weighing accurately. Above all, DO NOT shoot the chrony…..😗

 

There are some pretty standard loads used in bullseye circles. I have found them to function in most guns out of the box.

Zero 185gr JHP (the #187), 4.5gr Bullseye, 1.200-1.210” COAL, 0.469-0.470” crimp.

Same load as above with Noslers. There’s also the Marine Load, similar but with N310 in a different measure (4.1gr, depending on the source).

200 gr Zero LSWC, 4.0gr Bullseye, COAL determined by seating bullet should 0.030-0.050” off the shoulder (I have had multiple high masters describe checking seating depth with a fingernail), 0.468-0.469” crimp.

 

I'm another fan of the Hensley and Gibbs 68 SWC. I cast my own. I use pure lead and linotype for a Brinell hardeness of 15 Lyman #2 alloy.

Several years ago when I was working at an electrical utility they switched from pure lead meter seals to plastic seals. I ended up with five 5 gallon buckets of unused lead seals.

 

I’ve had a 4 pound jug of VV N-310 for a couple of years without ever opening it. I wanted to try some 185 grain LSWC for a light load that I could use in both my Springfield TRP and my old Kimber lightweight Commander. I bought a 1000 Missouri Bullet Company to try. Using 3.8 grains I was shocked at the accuracy of this load in both guns. Very easy recoil in the Kimber and much better than I ever thought I could shoot. I’ve just ordered an other 1000 rounds to reload while it’s comfortable in my garage.

 

Fact is, 45ACP is so easy and pleasant to load for.. Over the years I've used Bullseye, Red Dot, Clays, Unique, VVN310,
WW231 and probably a couple more. I haven't noticed a big difference in any of them. Of course we're always fooling around with bullet and powder charges, so...... FOR ME they all shoot well. The essence of the problem now is my eyes are 73 years old and sights are just fuzzy. I'll have to fit up a red dot one of these days just for fun..

 

Yeah, that’s what I did with a couple of them. It certainly brings the fun back, instead of the frustration of realizing you’re old! I highly recommend giving it a try!