Did the 3.5” operate normally before you added the shoc buf? If it did there is something you did that is incorrect. Did you replace the recoil spring at that time? We need way more info to diagnose the issue.
Joe

 

Did the 3.5” operate normally before you added the shoc buf? If it did there is something you did that is incorrect. Did you replace the recoil spring at that time? We need way more info the diagnose the issue.
Joe

^^^^^^ This.

I recently bought a 1985 Colt Series 80 Officer 3.25" 1911 .45ACP I ordered a pack of Wilson Combat Shock Buffs to install on my 1989 Colt C.C.O. MK IV Series 80 4.25 .45ACP and a brand new unfired Rock Island 1911 Series 70 5" .45ACP the only reason was that the 1989 already had a black one on it that had finally deteriorated (I actually thought it was standard on it being my 1st ever 1911)
The 5" and the 4.25" have no issues with the Shok Buffs installed they rack fine and I can keep the slide back as normally intended by Colt with the slide stop engaged
However,the 1985 3.25 Officer didn't function with the buff added ... it did not allow the slide to go all the way back so I removed it but now the gun still will not allow the slide to go all the way back and let the slide stop go up into it's notch on the slide
What gives??

silvermonaro, welcome to the forum. Jolly Rogers is right... we need to know more about your problem.
You state you recently bought the 1985 Colt Series 80 Officer 3.25" 1911 .45ACP... did you check out the functionality of the slide before installing the Shok-Buff? Some think it is not a good idea to use them on Officer size pistols.
Reasons to Avoid Using a Shok-Buff on Officer Size 1911s
Potential Functionality Issues

• Slide Travel Limitation: Shok-Buffs can reduce the slide's travel by about 1/4 inch. This may lead to extraction problems, as the slide might not move back far enough to eject spent cartridges properly.
• Increased Risk of Jamming: The added material can break down over time, potentially causing debris that could jam the firearm. This is particularly concerning for defensive pistols where reliability is critical.

Manufacturer Recommendations

• Not Recommended for Smaller Models: Manufacturers like Wilson Combat advise against using Shok-Buffs in smaller 1911 models, including Officer size pistols. They are primarily designed for full-size models.
• Design Intent: The original design of the 1911 by John Browning did not include a buffer, suggesting that the firearm operates optimally without one.

Maintenance Concerns

• Frequent Replacement Needed: Shok-Buffs can wear out quickly, especially in high-use scenarios. Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds, leading to increased maintenance.
• Potential for Disintegration: Some users have experienced Shok-Buffs disintegrating, which can lead to additional cleaning and maintenance issues.

Conclusion
Using a Shok-Buff on an Officer size 1911 can introduce more problems than benefits. The potential for jamming, manufacturer recommendations against their use, and maintenance challenges make them a less favorable option for these smaller models.

 

^^^^^^ This.


silvermonaro, welcome to the forum. Jolly Rogers is right... we need to know more about your problem.
You state you recently bought the 1985 Colt Series 80 Officer 3.25" 1911 .45ACP... did you check out the functionality of the slide before installing the Shok-Buff? Some think it is not a good idea to use them on Officer size pistols.
Reasons to Avoid Using a Shok-Buff on Officer Size 1911s
Potential Functionality Issues

• Slide Travel Limitation: Shok-Buffs can reduce the slide's travel by about 1/4 inch. This may lead to extraction problems, as the slide might not move back far enough to eject spent cartridges properly.
• Increased Risk of Jamming: The added material can break down over time, potentially causing debris that could jam the firearm. This is particularly concerning for defensive pistols where reliability is critical.

Manufacturer Recommendations

• Not Recommended for Smaller Models: Manufacturers like Wilson Combat advise against using Shok-Buffs in smaller 1911 models, including Officer size pistols. They are primarily designed for full-size models.
• Design Intent: The original design of the 1911 by John Browning did not include a buffer, suggesting that the firearm operates optimally without one.

Maintenance Concerns

• Frequent Replacement Needed: Shok-Buffs can wear out quickly, especially in high-use scenarios. Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds, leading to increased maintenance.
• Potential for Disintegration: Some users have experienced Shok-Buffs disintegrating, which can lead to additional cleaning and maintenance issues.

Conclusion
Using a Shok-Buff on an Officer size 1911 can introduce more problems than benefits. The potential for jamming, manufacturer recommendations against their use, and maintenance challenges make them a less favorable option for these smaller models.

I've heard the arguments both ways. I used Wilson shock buffs on my IPSC L10 gun (Springfield) for most of the time I shot IPSC. Super high round count gun, buffs changed about every 1000 rounds (approx. monthly). Never, ever had a problem.

It was a full-size gun, but also use them in my Champion without issue.

Wish I'd have used them in my Gold Cup - which, by the way, broke in front of the trigger guard after a couple thousand or thereabouts rounds. Last Colt 1911 I ever owned.

 

recently bought a 1985 Colt Series 80 Officer 3.25" 1911 .45ACP I ordered a pack of Wilson Combat Shock Buffs to install on my 1989 Colt C.C.O. MK IV Series 80 4.25 .45ACP and a brand new unfired Rock Island 1911 Series 70 5"

Did you accidentally mix up recoil springs while switching Shok-buffs?

Using Shok-buffs is a personal choice.....But, I often wonder if the people that claim "one crumbled and jammed my gun" do periodic maintenance/cleaning and would have noticed it starting to wear? Kind of like saying "Dunlop/Continental/Pirelli tires are junk; they wore out, went bald, or lost air without warning".

 

That's what I was thinking, a full size recoil spring in a shorter action would cause a bind.

It would most likely be less evident, until you head to the range, visa versa.

 

Make sure the recoil spring plug is properly seated in the slide. The lug on the rear of the plug needs to sit in the notch at the bottom rear of the slide tunnel. If not, the plug will not sit far enough forward, and will limit slide travel.

-

 

Throw those buffs in the trash, they're BS and play hell with sub 5" guns. The Officers is a carry gun and not meant to shoot a few thousand rounds a year out of.

 

I only use 'buffs on a full size for range use.
The Officer sized pistols start out on the ragged edge of needed slide travel, they don't want anything to reduce what's already on the short side.
Although, I will say that Wilsons; "Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds, leading to increased maintenance."
is kind of a stupid statement.
"Increased maintenance"? you mean changing it while the pistols apart for cleaning?, Good grief.
Of course "Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds".
It's a wear item, Duh.

 

I only use them in vintage guns where preservation is more important than functioning. The last time I used one in a frequent shooter it failed after only a few hundred rounds.

 

I only use 'buffs on a full size for range use.
The Officer sized pistols start out on the ragged edge of needed slide travel, they don't want anything to reduce what's already on the short side.
Although, I will say that Wilsons; "Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds, leading to increased maintenance."
is kind of a stupid statement.
"Increased maintenance"? you mean changing it while the pistols apart for cleaning?, Good grief.
Of course "Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds".
It's a wear item, Duh.

If you are quoting me the statement was from talking to Bill Wilson about Shok-Buffs, my statement was as follows and is what he said:

Users have reported needing to replace them after only a few hundred rounds, leading to increased maintenance.

I think he was being completely honest and admitted feedback from users of the S-B. I certainly would not accuse Bill Wilson of making a "stupid statement" about a product he talks about and sells successfully with some caveats.
I would be interested in your qualifications compared to Bill Wilson? I have not known Bill Wilson to make stupid statements about the S-B or 1911's for that matter. Do enlighten us with your superior intellect and knowledge on the subject. What is the name of your 1911 business?
Bill Wilson has talked extensively that while Shok-Buffs can help reduce wear on 1911s, there is a risk of them disintegrating, which may cause malfunctions and require more frequent cleaning and maintenance. It's generally advised to avoid using them in carry or self-defense guns due to these potential issues.
Bill Wilson has acknowledged the potential for issues with Shok-Buffs, emphasizing the importance of regular maintenance and careful consideration of their use in different types of firearms... the pros and cons of the product.
I will be sure to let Wilson know next time I see/talk to him that "Bowdrie on 1911forum.com thinks his position on the issue and his statement specifically...your quote:

"is kind of a stupid statement."

I am sure he will want to consult with you on the subject.

 

Theoretically...the buffers make some sense. Practically...I see no reason for them. Quality control makes a difference as well...there's some cheap buffs sold that will disintegrate after a short time...Wilson buffers are least quality regardless of how long they last.

In a practical sense...I believe the chances of a buffer disintegrating at the wrong time outweighs any potential benefit they offer. In any random pistol a Shok Buff can add to the effort in retracting the slide and potentially cause a short stroke in recoil when firing due to the recoil spring not being able to recoil as it should. Now that's not any kind of regular thing but can potentially happen in some pistols with a different than stock recoil spring.

It's kinda like putting a can of STP in your car engine...rather than do that simply use a heavier weight motor oil. In a 1911...put in a heavier recoil spring.

Full disclosure...I have tried Shok Buffs in the past and found no difference in performance. I did try one in a Commander before Wilson added the warning about them in less than full-size pistols. It was a malfunction maker.

 

Didn't Wilson start with a polyfiber type buffer a few decades back? Before that, I think shooters used leather (though I can't imagine they lasted more than a couple hundred rounds).

Of course with better metallurgy, I don't think guns are as susceptible to frame failures as they once were.

I do have an Operator with an aluminum frame, but I typically shoot 750fps reloads and certainly use a buffer with it. My aluminum Colt experience taught me that - in addition to just not trusting aluminum. Nothing like blue steel and wood.

 

Ok, in order for some other forum members to not get their knickers in a twist, in lieu of using "stupid" I'll be "kinder/gentler" and use "Essentially meaningless".
When the pistols field stripped for cleaning how much "extra maintenance" does it take to put in a new 'buff? 5 seconds?, 10 seconds?.
Hey, some vehicle users report having to change the brake pads more frequently when carrying heavy loads. You think?
That's not any different from having to replace a 'buff after X number of rounds; factory loads more frequent replacement, lighter target loads less frequent replacement, it isn't rocket science.
Reduced slide travel? That's a non-starter, if a 1911 won't strip/chamber rounds from the slide lock position with only a 10>12 lb. spring somethings wrong.

 

The OP is new and looking to get answers to his particular problem with the 1985 Colt Series 80 Officer 3.25" 1911 .45ACP. Assume the new OP does not know much about this particular gun or 1911's. He is asking for input.
In addition to the potential things identified by other members other factors could be:
Accumulation of dirt or debris in the slide or frame.
Insufficient lubrication.
Worn or incorrect recoil springs can affect slide operation. Check if the recoil spring is the correct one for your model.
Check to see if the slide stop is damaged or misaligned.
His gun might not have the correct size recoil spring plug... if someone along the line of ownership put a gov't size plug in it... that plug would be too long. Often users swap parts out or in a lot of cases they tinker and screw the gun up. The wrong spring could be the issue.
To the OP...if you return--
I saw a 1911 once where it was apparent the factory had milled the slide lock notch too far forward on the slide... the factory screws up sometimes and problems get out... without more information on your particular gun we can only guess at things.
Could be a guide rod problem or barrel bushing or other part issues.
OP, Strip the slide.
Put the stripped slide on the frame, put the slide stop in.
Will it go now? If not the notch may be wrong.
If so, pull it apart, put in barrel and bushing.
Try it on frame. If it doesn't work the barrel/bushing is causing an issue.
It it does. Tear it back apart, try putting the spring assembly in.
Work it out part by part until it won't work, then you know what caused the issue.
You could also have a qualified gunsmith inspect the firearm if the problem persists after basic troubleshooting.

Bowdrie, why bother with either of your posts if your intention is to be wiseacre and demeaning? You obviously think Wilson's comments about his own product... recognizing its limitations in pistols under their recommended length are indeed "stupid." How has your sarcasm with another member aided a new member with anything useful?
Why not offer the new member your input...if you have any about what may be the cause of his problem with the gun? You started out with some input then decided to veer off to do what... exactly?
What useful information can you contribute to the new members question? He is looking for possible solutions and the SB would be a negative addition. It is actually intended to be sold as part of a system from WC.
Let's see if the new OP returns... he may not be inclined to do so if he thinks he will have an experience with a demeaning negative non-contributing member.

 

It really only takes a second to change a buff, but an Officer's is pushing the limits and a buff can cause mayhem. I jave no use for them but DSK makes a good point about using them in an old gun with minimal heat treating.

 

@silvermonaro , I understand about the buffs. Really not an item for the OACP. But, one thing I'd like to add, is the very real possibility that someday, you'll not have the tab on the recoil spring plug aligned with the keyway in the slide. Seen my share of that happening, and I have no clue how guys did it, but they did.
HIGHLY suggested top keep the stock plug for posterity, and get the excellent EGW/Clark plug, which has a thin flange on it, plus the key. It will not break. Of course less room for buffs, but... ya know, they're not really needed.

 

I removed it but now the gun still will not allow the slide to go all the way back and let the slide stop go up into it's notch on the slide

take it back apart and put it back together... I'm betting you'll figure it right out.

 

I have done that multiple times lol like I said I can reassemble it but it will not slide back fully it will feed a round in and then I have to field strip it again by removing the pin with the slide fully assembled I am no expert on 1911s but this has me baffled nothing is out of the ordinary ...

 

Remove the guide rod altogether; will it rack all the way back (actually, farther than normal)?
Install the rod without the springs?
Then the complete assembly; any change?
You're sure the slide stop pin is going through the link?

 

Great Idea! I will try that and maybe just maybe I am missing the link with the S.S.P!
Never thought about that
Thanks

 

@silvermonaro
Post a picture of the guns disassembled top end - slide, bushing, recoil spring plug, recoil spring(s), guide rod and barrel. If you please!

 

Roger that

 

You did not lose the plunger that blocks the firing pin in a series 80 did you. I bought one someone had taken the firing pin lock out and the lever in the frame that raised it up would catch in the hole in the slide not letting it go back.

 

The plunger is still there but maybe it's got an issue I bought it from the son of the deceased initial owner he had never fired it himself (son) ... not a gun person but it was in need of lubrication when I purchased it maybe I got a little to much grease in the plunger shaft thanks for the idea to examine that

 

Loose plunger would not let the slide move "forward".

Things that would not let the slide move "backward".....
Buffers (covered)
Incorrect positioning of link (covered)
Incorrect positioning of recoil spring plug (covered)
Recoil spring too long/too many coils
Problem with sizing of the bushing, which must slip over the first (front) barrel locking lug
Hate to say weak physical handing, can't pull the slide back

That's all I can think of right now

 

I wi get it out of the safe and try this step by step and no in the too weak to rack item my daily carry is a 1989 Series 80 C.C.O. MK IV Colt 1911 lol

 

Take no offense. I was merely listing all the possibilities I could think of. Could be a few more I didn't think of....

 

The OM has the least amount of slide travel of any 1911ish pistol I know of (I haven't fooled with them all) - and it has the worst recoil spring system (the Delta Elite is just as bad) - for the first few years after that model came out, I had a lot more of them come into the shop not working than any other Colt model.

The guns always worked for me but I changed out the recoil springs for a Wolff progressive single spring that was made just for that job.

Somebody gave me an expensive custom pistil that would not run Ball - I removed the shock buff and it ran fine - even offered to give it back but the previous owner was too mad at the 'smith. I did give him one of my guns so he would take too much of a hit.

At any rate, I'm with the guys above who say ditch the buffer - FWIW the only ones I ever would consider were Hietts - they don't get chewd up as soon - but I don't use them in my carry guns - they used to make several thicknesses but I think they are out of business now. They were red.

Better still, put a Commander slide on it and make a CCO

Riposte