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OK, what’s the trick - Recoil Spring Plug

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5.4K views 19 replies 14 participants last post by  1saxman  
#1 ·
I just f’d up the front finish on my recoil plug. It’s on my newest gun, a Les Baer Monolith Comanche. A couple of times it’s failed to return to battery. Since the number of rounds through it is unknown, replacing the recoil spring seemed like an obvious place to start.

Since the bushing is quite tight, even after oiling, I pretty much always have to use a bushing wrench. Today, with the added resistance from the new spring, I had a hell of a time getting this very simple job done. My wife chattering at me while I did it didn’t help. When I finally got it done, the finish on the serrations of the plug were buggered up on one side. Pissed me off even more.

is there a simple trick to this?
 
#2 ·
I would suggest a different method of field stripping your gun for two reasons. The first reason, is now obvious to you. The second reason is that turning the bushing while the gun is locked up will degrade the close fit between the bushing and barrel on a gun fit to be accurate.

Remove the slide stop and slide the slide assembly off the frame, being careful not to launch the spring guide into your face or across the room, by containing the assembly in your hand. Release the spring pressure and remove the spring. Push the barrel out of battery and now use your wrench to turn the bushing.

There are several videos online showing this method.
 
#3 ·
A dumb question first. Are you absolutely positive that you have a Commander length recoil spring?

One test for this is to remove the recoil spring, pull the slide fully to the rear, put a piece of tape across the slide and frame, cut the tape so the slide can move, draw a line on the tape across the slide and frame. Put the recoil spring back in the slide secured by the slide stop plug, pull the slide fully to the rear. The two lines should line up. If the line on the slide is forward of the line on the frame, the recoil spring is too long.

I like the Present Arms bushing wrench because it allows me to use it to push the recoil spring plug down into the slide rather than using my thumb.

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#8 ·
No offense intended but I suggest that you watch this video, and adopt the method of disassembly and assembly demonstrated here. A 1911 with a tight bushing can be difficult to disassemble and reassemble at times. This method both makes it simpler, and induces less wear on the bushing.

 
#16 ·
My PO of my colt series 80 government 5” in 45acp in nickel followed the video about he put a idiot scratch under the slide stop lever. He probably used a screwdriver to pull the lever out. The bushing is so snug in the slide a bushing wrench is needed to turn it.

My norinco project proved to me the fit between the slide, barrel and bushing if it’s snug that’s where the accuracy comes from in a 1911.
 
#18 ·
A barrel bushing should be snug with no play, but if it is too tight to turn with a bushing wrench, it is too tight! It needs to be refitted, but the first step is to find out if the bushing nub is binding or if the outside diameter of the bushing is too tight for the slide.....perhaps it has both issues? I had a Clark Custom 1911 with a snug bushing, and the gun was extremely accurate. The bushing was not so tight that I couldn't turn it for proper disassembly......
 
#19 ·
Watch this video and with some practice you will never ruin and recoil spring plug again.
How to Field Strip a 1911
i own 4 Baers, until I started using this method of slide disassembly, the checkering on my spring plugs were all crushed. I had someone show me this method but Rob‘s video is excellent.
 
#20 ·
There is a quick and easy method for checking for spring bind in a 1911 with traditional set-up. Lock the slide back and hold it all the way back with one hand. Do not just lock the slide back - get every bit of movement because that's what it will do when firing. Now just take a piece of wood dowel or other non-marring object and push on the spring cap - if it moves ANY at all, its okay. If it will not move at all, the spring is bound. If it fails this test, you need to take it apart, check for a buffer and do the regular test with and without the recoil spring to make sure.