I wouldn't use the term "fail" but if I was to stock spare parts I'd have an extra hand (preferably several in different dimensions) and star. These, of course, just for when the timing begins to go wonky.

I've owned/shot many, many S&W revolvers over many decades and never had a parts failure of any kind.

 

I have read of broken floating firing pins, I have squashed a couple of similar Colt firing pin springs. Those are cheap and readily replaceable. I have not even heard of a broken mainspring.

 

Nada zilch zero,

 

The rebound slide springs are still unnecessarily stout, probably as a safety/liability concern. A Wolff kit will give you a better trigger pull.

The only S&W parts I've 'had to' replace were those that were 'modified' by some hack playing gunsmith!

Mainly those great old FORGED hammers & triggers with the thin color-case hardening that the sear surfaces were 'stoned-thru'!

Don't let 'Bubba' do a trigger job on your S&W revolver!

A few dropped J-frames with the hammer spurs broken off.

And a few triggers swapped in favor of the med-width smooth 'combat' trigger.

Keep it clean and lubed, it'll outlast you!

 

Where are you able to buy S&W parts? Every place I look only has one or or two items like pins or mainsprings.

 

I ordered some springs and grip from MGW (Midwest Gun Works). I am going to order extractor rod and few other tidbits like end shake washers from Midway. For some reason they let one guess what barrel length extractor rod will be compatible with so I went to where barrel length is specifically listed.
I have to replace "💀 crusher grips" (thin wood grips with open backstrap and bottom" which S&W puts on PC N-frame because they know everyone who buys their Mag will only shoot .44 Special Cowboy loads through the gun🤦
My primary goal was to get my hands on those made for S&W grips they use on current Model 629. They feel great and for some reason are not easy to find. Glad I got last one from MGW.

 

When the MiM parts with lock started showing up, lots of people scarfed up a good chunk of the above mentioned forged and CCH NOS parts.

I don't doubt the latest MiM parts will prove more durable than the 70s~80s CCH parts.

 

Here is my favorite source for S&W revolver parts.

USA

USA

usagunsandgear.com

 

So S&W “new revolvers” may need backup parts? Never had any issues with my older S&W revolvers and I shot the snot out of them. Carried one for years and still do on occasion when I think I may need a BUG.

 

Here's my experience with keeping spare parts on hand. You could have everything to fix every possible broken component... and the one part that fails will be the one that's supposed to NEVER fail and you didn't keep a spare.

 

the only thing i've ever replace is the grips. i had one k-38 that belonged to seattle pd that had so many rounds the firing pin bushing was oblong. that was 50 years ago, it's still shooting just fine. that bushing is replaceable. my brother wore out 3 m-29 barrels. there were a few frames that the hole for the barrel was drilled off center, he got one. replacement barrels were $15 at gun shows, so he just replaced them. some years ago i found a clean 629 and he traded up i think the old one was late 60's production. i have put in a few spring kits, years ago, but don't do that anymore. i do polish the sides of the main springs sometimes. my newest m-69 is in springfield getting the factory tune.

 

My primary goal was to get my hands on those made for S&W grips they use on current Model 629. They feel great and for some reason are not easy to find.

Paulskj-have you looked on the S&W website to see if they sell the grips you are looking for. I have bought a few sets to replace magnas. I can't shoot with those at all.

 

I bought moon clips and J-frame combat grips for 940 few years ago. I could not find such items at their site recently.

 

I ordered firing pin, spring, mainspring kit and the thing I was really after the round to square butt N-frame rubber grip with S&W logo.
Putting stuff in basket is not as easy as at Midway. At one point grip disappeared from basket and could not be placed in it again saying insufficient quantity. 🥵 Miraculously it slowed up in basket from another screen, shipped this am.🤠

 

Back in the 80's a fork piece broke on my Rossi coach gun so I ordered extras. Never needed more than the one that broke.

 

I shoot my 929s, 627s and 617s a lot. When I am shooting them they get hot, so I am not delicate with them. All my shooting is DAO.

Even though the hammers are made by Apex, the rest is OEM. I have yet to break any parts.

 

I don't keep spares for my revolvers.

 

Bought my S&W model 10 snubby around 1982 and have had no reason to replace a single part. It has several thousand rounds through it and is still as tight as the day it was new, except for the trigger which has only gotten better with use.

Now if it was a Colt, I would suggest a spare cylinder lock and spring. I have replaced several for friends over the years. They tend to round over on the top and fail to lock the cylinder. Poor metallurgy IMHO.

 

I keep a couple of mainsprings for my older S&W''s. <$20>If a little out of time a new hand is a quick fix on most.<3 sizes-a new factory size one will likely work>. If you replace a cylinder<$150> try to buy an assembly with the same barrel length. eBay works for me.

 

I bought couple firing pins with springs and Wolff mainspring kit, I am done.🤠

 

I always preferred the smooth med. width triggers for my S&W revolvers. Most came with the wide serrated target triggers. Used to see parts dealers at gunshows that had dozens/scores of brand new S&W triggers, hammers and other parts. Well-established gunsmiths also often stocked 'fire-control' parts.

Many gun companies wouldn't sell hammers/triggers/sears to individuals for liability issues, but sold their entire stocks of 'obsolete' parts to Numrich Gun Parts Co.

 

I am not sure what is your concern. I assume you are talking about the rubber grips on most of the current 629s?

The traditional 29 and 629 came with the nice Magna Grips, nice looking and deep checkering. About 50 rounds would eat the skin out of your palm. Most people replaced them with the Hogue finger grove grips, which let you keep hold of the gun when firing top end loads. They are just plain plastic, like these on this gun from Cabelas. All of the new entry level Smith and Wessons come with a version of those, the fine wood grips are extra and usually from the Custom Shop.

The normal model 629 they now call the Classic. With the wooden grips and nice polish they will cost over $200 more than the current dull finish guns. Actually the older guns came with nicer grips than those shown on the SW web site.

Except for the hammer nipple in the older guns, there is nothing to break on a typical model 629. The red ramp from sight might fall out but no real loss, replacements are everywhere. I collect Smith and Wessons and have some over 100 years old and never had a spring wear completely out. You can shoot them loose and need end shake shims if you shoot enough magnum loads.

As far as grips, I do not consider Smith and Wesson factory grips a top of the line product at all, there are dozens of companies that can make a custom grip for any of the Smith and Wesson revolvers. I have factory grips I have taken off of several to customize or a couple I have add Crimson Trace Laser grips for walking out in the dark in bear country. Other than that, I cannot think of any parts that I worry about.

There are some guns, like a single action army that have springs that will fail over time, but not the wheel guns. Same with Ruger, I have never had a Ruger wheel gun, SA or DA have a part that failed. Guess that is why so many people trust them.

My only SW in 44 mag is the model 29 from 1981, it came with the big walnut grips, target trigger, target hammer and all in a wooden display box. None of that applies to the off the shelf guns anymore.

If there is something about the newer versions that are failing, I would sure like to know the source of your concern. Some guns like 1911s and ARs, I do see the need for spare parts, buy them, and keep them handy. Just saying. Enjoy your 629, not much finer a gun on the planet.

Forgot the names but a survey was once done among gun writers and they were to choose only one handgun and that was all they could have for life. Some said a 357 SW, which would be me, one went with some 22, a Ruger semi auto I think, but several chose the model 29/44 mag Smith and Wesson. The reason was, it would defend the home against anything, it could be used to hunt deer, defend against bears, snake shot for snakes and 44 specials for rabbits and squirrels.

I have carried the model 29 four inch a million miles on the belt is seems, it is not much for concealing, but if there is a threat, and I did face a bear at 3 am once, there is no better handgun to be in your hand.

Enjoy that big guy.

 

I am glad I got those grips pictured on 629 above. Last ones from MGW, item status still out of stock. These are surprisingly hard to find.

 

i disagree with 'grips are easy to find'. maybe if you are looking for more modern designs, the older are harder. took a couple of months to find what i was looking for. most of old grips are $200 or more. finally found a fellow on gb (i am sure e-bay has some as well). got some new 'cokes' in english walnut for $65.

 

The prices for old stuff in top shape is high. I am tempted to sell original N-frame rosewood combat grips.🤑
I have both Houge and S&W rubber grips for my gun.

 

IMO, the only spare parts you should have are the 'smalls' that 'disappear' when you are tinkering (disassembling) wit it. You know, springs and pins.

 

I have used S&W revolvers for a very long time, and have experimented with springs, grips, etc. But, IIRC have only seen a couple things that put the revolver out of service. One was the hammer nose on a friend's well used S&W model 19 breaking off, 40 years ago. Another was a LNIB model 19 I purchased even longer ago. The gun was pristine, and showed little evidence of being fired post factory. Firing .38 Spcl. ammo, function was normal. But, firing factory .357 ammo caused the primer to flow into the frame hammer nose bushing, immediately preventing any further cylinder rotation. Someone had obviously dry fired the gun a lot, and upon examination, the hole in the bushing had became enlarged to an oval shape. A new hammer nose bushing installed at S&W, and all was well.

I like to have extra parts, but other than trying this or that because I wanted to, have used very few due to some failure..

 

yes there are some grip makers. no they don't make what i want for a price i am willing to pay. so i got mine from gb and ebay. the worst is herrett doesn't make any of their customs now. i still have a couple of made to measure and wanted some more.

 

Other Brand Gun Parts Found this site today.Looking for sw pistol parts( polymer) for another member.This may be helpful, with a array of models covered.New and Used