Hey guys, how about a thread where we talk about upgrading Tisas 1911s. I think it will be fun as well as educational. Members can tell us which model they have, what upgrades they made and include a couple of photos. If you want to share problems you encountered or other details, include those as well if you wish.

 

This might be better suited to the Tisas forum rather than general. There’s already mods discussed there but not under one thread. So, yes

 

This might be better suited to the Tisas forum rather than general. There’s already miss discussed there but not under one thread. So, yes

dankwell’s suggestion is a good one, but as SJ781 said, the post thread would be better suited in the TISAS forum section. In my opinion.

 

Has anyone had front & rear checkering put on their Tisas B9 or B45?

 

The only upgrades I've done is change out the sights which I think is pretty common and I think will be much easier now that Tisas is providing their upper level sights for sale on their site page. And just a little throat and action polish that I would do to any new to me gun.

I just picked up a MAC 1911 DS yesterday. It is as advertised. Tight as a drum but still smooth. Trigger is heavier than advertised at a very consistent 6.5 lbs on my scale but I am sure it will come into spec with a few rounds down range. So I don't see myself doing much to it either.

FWIW I could have picked up a lightly (broken in) used Prodigy at a local store for a few $$$ less.

 

A Wilson tactical magazine release and Tisas own fiber optic front and U-notch rear sights are about the only parts replacements. As Tom mentioned, breaking the edge on the throat of the barrel and a little polish on the action are not a bad idea. I'd only add tuning/fitting of the extractor and possibly a flat bottom firing pin stop (for stout 45 and 10mm loads) might be considerations.

 

D10
EGW Flat bottom firing pin stop. Not really flat. Changed 22 lb recoil spring to 20 lb.
EGW Barrel Bushing fitted to barrel and slide.
Wilson 0.200 Slide Stop. Rear lockup loosened up after 200 rounds of Sig Elite FMJ with OEM.
Nighthawk solid trigger. Took out up and down movement and side to side play in trigger.
Stoned trigger bar, disconnector face, trigger slot in frame.
Colt sear spring. Only adjusted grip safety tension.
Polished top of hammer. Felt rough when rubbing on the bottom of the slide. Wear in finish is triangular, much wider on left compared to right side.

Match
Wilson gunsmith fit barrel bushing. Both OEM barrel bushings were very loose to barrel and to frame.
EGW slide stop. 0.200 OD. The original felt right enough at first. Loosened up and barrel rear could be pushed down after a couple hundred rounds.
Nighthawk 17 lb recoil spring
Nighthawk solid trigger, fitted in height. Zero slop now.
Polished trigger bar, disconnector face, and trigger bar slot in frame.
Colt sear spring. Only adjusted the grip safety Leaf.

Triggers in both break at 3 1/2#. With fitted barrel bushings, hard rear lockup, and acceptable slide to frame fit both are good enough for anything short of Bullseye use.
The extractors, barrel throat/ramp, and sights have been fine. Rear sights have LocTite now.

 

I have a few and minor upgrades are fine … I replaced a barrel bushing and plug from EGW , grips as well but dont dump too much into one . There low price will carry over into resale if you ever decide to pass it along.
Just my opinion

 

This should be moved to the Tisas section.
OOPS! Never mind.

 

Excellent posts guys! They're teaching those of use who don't yet own a Tisas what sort of upgrades we may consider when we get one. Obviously it wouldn't pay to invest too much money in the gun, but spending 2-3 bucks to increase it's function and reliability seems appropriate. I'm going to buy one in a few months when I have some extra money. I don't know what the hell extra money is because I never had or have any!

Add a couple pics if your guns are pretty!

By the way, I couple days ago I learned Tisas sells complete build kits. That's convenient, leave out the parts you don't want and install the upgrades right from the get go.

 

Stingray and B9 with rail

 

I personally am not big on rails, but absolutely love the gray model. Everything about the gun syncs up wonderfully: First the three tones of gray make it really pop. The textured grip panels mate very nicely with the fish scale cocking serrations. Nothing is over the top, radical. You have a very classy looking, beautiful gun I'd be pleased to own!

 

Some folk probably wouldn’t consider these upgrades, but this is what I have done to make the Tisas ASF a bit more USGI-ish.

The grips it came with were replaced with some reproductions that are closer to the original WWII color, the trigger was replaced with a USGI stamped trigger, and the grip safety was replaced with one that is closer to the WWII profile. Replaced the mainspring housing with a Remington Rand one that was in the parts box and the magazine release was changed out with a GI mag release from the same box. Also replaced the sear pin with one that has a rounded end, as some sharp-eyed individual saw a picture of it and noticed that it came with a flat-ended sear pin.

 

I'd call those upgrades! Gun looks totally battle ready.

 

So far just replaced the plastic grips… couldn’t stand ‘em.

 

I seem to have taken a liking to Cylinder and Slide Shop's medium length, smooth-faced triggers, and I've been replacing all my triggers with that length, be they long or short.. That includes my Tisas pistols, Tisas sells some pretty decent 100% checkered walnut grips that I like (and they're only $25/set). That's about it, all the work on my Tisas seem to be swapping out those triggers and grips, and lightening the trigger pull on a couple of them (the D-10 was egregiously heavy). Beyond that, nothing much needed or desired, but I didn't buy any GI types, either, the Tank Commander 9mm is the closest thing I"ve got to a GI gun.

 

I'm not big on plastic grips either, but I read the original M1 1911 grips were make of bakelite, plastic's forerunner.

 

Monkey see, monkey do…

View attachment 718048

 

Nice job. That turned out well. Ever since I shot a DCM 1911A1 back many many years ago, I have been infatuated with the GI look. 😀

 

Agree, gun looks great! I didn't know Tisas stamped their 1911s with the original A1 U.S. property mark. That's what makes the gun that much cooler!

 

Anyone have luck with a drop-in magwell/MSH replacement whether one piece or two?

 

I'd think an S&A magwell would fit, it might take a little filing on the back, though. One went on my Ruger without a hitch, but when I decided to put them on my Garrisons instead, I had to file a litlte on each one. No big deal, about 10 minutes on each one, and they're good.

 

Well…
My B45 carry was so well fit, smooth, locked up like a bank vault, that I went to town on it.
Even had the barrel flush cut and crowned to an EGW bushing.
Internals are all Harrison, with an EGW slide stop and thumb safety.
Woodcalber grips.

 

Has anyone bought the EWG extractor for the 1911 and if so, did you have to tweak it to work or
was it a drop in with no work? Thanks for any reply.

 

I've used them on Springfields, and you have to blend the back into the slide.
There's quite the protrusion.

 

Not a Tisas 1911 owner yet but am seriously debating getting a Night Stalker, likey a 9mm as shown below. What I am thinking about doing would be to swap triggers and put on a tiss's skeletonized trigger. I also understand that the mag release is crap and that probably would be an item to look at.
Not having any gunsmithing experience, in your opinion how difficult is it to swap a trigger or a mag release button and any other associated components needing swapped out?

 

None of the upgrades are particularly difficult, in response to the above questions. Kuhnhausen volume 1 is a great book. Steve in Allentown has a sticky in the gunsmithing section on extractors that is superb. A few other sticky’s too. Sear spring prep comes to mind.

Best to start with a functioning gun, and improve it one thing at a time. You will make mistakes. You will wreck parts. The more you pay attention, the less parts you will wreck.

The stock parts may be fine with a little bit of work. You can get a great pistol with a bit of effort and not much money. You can wreck one too.

On my usual soapbox now. Most 1911’s can be ammunition and magazine insensitive with a bit of work. As in, run (about) any mag, and (about) any ammunition without hiccups. No kerchunk when they feed. Just a snick that is almost frightening in its efficiency as it feeds.

Pretty hard to get that out of the box for $400-500. It does happen. I have not had it happen to my satisfaction.

 

The mag release is super easy. The trigger is pretty easy but a little more difficult on a DS 1911s. You have to remove the grip module and tuning takes a bit longer due to having to remove and replace the grip module multiple times. I’ve used Red Dirt and Bul Armory triggers in my DS 1911s. I like the modular trigger shoe in the Bul but the pre-travel adjustment on the Red Dirt is very simple.

 

D10
150 rounds new. Re-cut/ Polish sear (2.5# Crisp), polish trigger bow, hammer disconnect foot, and pins. Added a 2 piece guide rod. Needs nothing but ammo and a shooter.

 

I have a thread below that shows what I have done so far, but here's the list:
Nighthawk magwell. Required fitting.

New mainspring and internals.

New plunger spring.

New better ambi safety..... The factory was mushy.

New sights. Purchased from Tisas.

Next will be a short trigger.

 

looking to get a new trigger for the Tisas Night Stalker. Any specific recommendations?

 

Single stack or double stack? For single stacks, I like Cylinder and Slide triggers (length is up to you). I haven't switched out a trigger in my one double stack, so I'm opinion-free on that.