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Well you guys have me hooked. I am going to either checker or stipple this msh from my little 9mm Stingray. I have a 30lpi checkering file begging to see some action. If I screw up, well...practice. And it's a cheap part.

 
First ( and last ) hand checkering attempt. I proved I could do it but I don't have the urge to do more. The other SA and my Colt 1991 Commander went to a machine shop for machine checkering. I just had to dress the edges to my taste.
Joe
OK without hijacking the thread.... what turned you off?
Im gonna try my first attempt at it soon, so I wanna be prepared.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
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First ( and last ) hand checkering attempt. I proved I could do it but I don't have the urge to do more. The other SA and my Colt 1991 Commander went to a machine shop for machine checkering. I just had to dress the edges to my taste.
Joe
Good job on that checkering.
 
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My hands are getting soft and sore as I get older. That was 8 + years ago and I was still wrenching on cars full time. It is very hard on your fingers. Took a month or so to restore my fingerprints. If you do try it use plenty of chalk on your files and tape your fingers. Also pace your efforts and don’t work when you are tired. Stop before you lose your strength and concentration. One factor was the excess IMHO chamfer in the magwell of the Colt. No way to stop the checkering verticals at the bottom by hand. Machine checkering can stop where the front strap is thick enough. So I had to send the Commander anyway and just shipped the SA 9 mm with it and got both done. My son is a FFL so I caught a break on the shipping.
Those facts are why I haven’t tried again.
That said I won’t own a 1911 without any front strap traction. I like the tiger stripe stippling though. Not nearly as tedious I bet to do a good job!
Joe
 
My hands are getting soft and sore as I get older. That was 8 + years ago and I was still wrenching on cars full time. It is very hard on your fingers. Took a month or so to restore my fingerprints. If you do try it use plenty of chalk on your files and tape your fingers. Also pace your efforts and don’t work when you are tired. Stop before you lose your strength and concentration. One factor was the excess IMHO chamfer in the magwell of the Colt. No way to stop the checkering verticals at the bottom by hand. Machine checkering can stop where the front strap is thick enough. So I had to send the Commander anyway and just shipped the SA 9 mm with it and got both done. My son is a FFL so I caught a break on the shipping.
Those facts are why I haven’t tried again.
That said I won’t own a 1911 without any front strap traction. I like the tiger stripe stippling though. Not nearly as tedious I bet to do a good job!
Joe
Thanks Joe. Exactly what I wanted to know.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
My hands are getting soft and sore as I get older. That was 8 + years ago and I was still wrenching on cars full time. It is very hard on your fingers. Took a month or so to restore my fingerprints. If you do try it use plenty of chalk on your files and tape your fingers. Also pace your efforts and don’t work when you are tired. Stop before you lose your strength and concentration. One factor was the excess IMHO chamfer in the magwell of the Colt. No way to stop the checkering verticals at the bottom by hand. Machine checkering can stop where the front strap is thick enough. So I had to send the Commander anyway and just shipped the SA 9 mm with it and got both done. My son is a FFL so I caught a break on the shipping.
Those facts are why I haven’t tried again.
That said I won’t own a 1911 without any front strap traction. I like the tiger stripe stippling though. Not nearly as tedious I bet to do a good job!
Joe
Yeah, tender finger tips. Like you, I spent my career in auto repair. Much of it in parallel with instruction of such. But one is still a technician. Then, as now, don’t know how many times my fingers felt the file…from applying pressure above the cutting… and on the same plane with it.
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
Well, I like the pistol so now I need some sights I can see. I was going to pop for a send it to Novak to machine a front dovetail and install a tritium with circle front sight. I found a .055” tenon front sight…and the rest is history. Oh, I installed a longer link which still coincides the rear of the bottom lugs and the feet with the perimeter of the link big end. All timing checks muy bueno. Gives me .002” - .003” play when the slide is a few thousands of an inch out of full battery position.

  • Pic of new sights with the removed rear sight.
  • Pic of the bottoms of the rear 10-8 NM sight and the Tisas sight. Tisas sight is hollow.
  • Pic of some elementary math to get the replacements sights close.
  • Pic of the new rear sight with the corners of the dovetails filed off.
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Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
Next, trial attempt install the rear sight was unsuccessful. Rear sight shown bottom up with file laid against it to show filing in two diagonal directions corner to cormer. Equal number of strokes used Then the sight is turned 180 degrees and filing same number of strokes in both diagonal directions. Check fit. Lots of this filing was needed. Pic of the cross hatch on the bottom of the rear sight.
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Discussion starter · #51 · (Edited)
Finally got the rear sight to enter the dovetail. File fitted until the rear sight entered the same amount as the stock sight. Both pics shown.

For those curious the rear sight started life at .314” tall. Finished fit height is .289”. So I lost .025” in sight height. This additional amount will also be taken off the front sight.
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Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
Rear sight pressed in. Blue Loctite applied to lock down screw…doesn’t need it with this fit. Sctew installed and excess Loctite wiped off
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Discussion starter · #53 · (Edited)
Front sight prepared for install. Front sight fitted and installed with Red Loctite applied.
Front sight tenon swaged. Front sight tenon swaging excess removed and smoothed.
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Discussion starter · #54 · (Edited)
Pic of front sight swaging tool I made 30 years back. I later bought then sold the armorers tenon swager. I like this one.
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Pic of front sight swaging tool I made 30 years back. I later bought then sold the armorers tenon swager. I like this one.
I use to help my boss’s dad, swage GI front sights with a tool that he’d made years before, but didn’t quite have the hand strength to use anymore. He’d come up front at the gun counter, and enlist my aid when he needed it in our Gun Smithing Department.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Cudos…at my age my eyes are always sayin’, “Need help…”
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Tidbit…
I removed the wood grips and reinstalled the original grips just as a “let’s see..”. They work so the original grips stay with the pistol.

Considering contemporary values and market prices…
Bushing, trigger were used…$11
New sights, frt & rr…..$51
New sear spring and link…..$14

Total out of pocket to modify, sans on hand supplies…..$76

Experience, tooling, and parts to get to this point…$4.5 billion
 
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