Is that the original hammer strut or a new one? Is your sear spring installed properly? ...Also what do you mean by "wont cock at all" hammer is frozen or just not catching in the notches?

 

It's a new strut. I'm pretty sure the sear spring is in right, cause the stock hammer works fine. The hammer will go back, but it wont catch.

 

Make sure on the sear spring first. Even though it worked fine with the stock hammer the leg for the sear could have slipped under it when you re-assembled with the new hammer.

 

Ok thanks. I'll give it a shot.

 

Are you using the original sear or one that is matched to that hammer? Sounds like the sear is not engaging.:scratch:

 

Same thing. Hammer goes back but won't catch. I took a picture of the two hammers while i had it apart.

 

Also, if the grip safety has no relief cut the burr hammer may be hitting the top of the grip safety, assuming that the original hammer was an original type. Perhaps a photo of the assembled gun could be shown?

 

I'm using the sear and disconnector that came with the hammer. I just took the grip safety off and put pressure on the sear spring, and it cocks just fine. Do you want a picture with the new hammer installed?

 

You can't use a commander hammer with the GI or mil-spec GS as it hits it before going back far enough to cock. To see if this is correct assemble with out the GS and see if it doesn't cock then.

LOG

Relieve the obstruction of the GS or install a beaver tail GS.

LOG

 

You're right. The grip safety won't let the hammer go down all the way. Can i get a safety with a notch in the bur?

 

I didn't know the difference between a Commander and GI hammer when i got the kit. I ordered the gun and kit at the same time.

 

Owning and working on a 1911 is a learning experience for us all. Enjoy!

LOG

 

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

A few minutes with a woodruff cutter in a mill would suffice to make clearance for the hammer. Of course, if the original GS is blued you have to refinish afterwards.

 

You other option is to order a relieved grip safety from Kings Gun Works or something like a drop-in beavertail from Wilson's

 

This pistol has a Nowlin drop-in hammer-sear combintion and a Wilson grip safety. (And Novak sights and a lot of other stuff...)

Before

After

-- Chuck

 

Is that an ambi safety? What make is it?

 

C&S trigger pull kits are mated. The hammer is mated to that sear. Replacing the hammer with another may not give you as smoooooooth a trigger pull. My suggestion would be to replace the GS with one that works. You should be able to get one used from someone. I recently did that.

Another option is to call C&S tell them the problem and see if you can return it for the Marine setup they offer. It has a spur hammer, I think.

 

I did this mod on a friends Springfield when he wanted to fit a new hammer, sear, and thumb safety.

I used a dremmel with a large sanding drum to remove most of the metal, then finished with 320, 400, and 600 grit Wet/ Dry sandpaper. Degreased the part and applied some spray and bake finish. (Pardon the mismatch in finish of the thumb safety, hadn't done that prior to the pic.)

 

ah ok. i didnt know you were fitting a hammer of a different design. makes sense now.

btw is that an EGW or Nowlin hammer?

 

Gunsite low thumb safety. Single sided.

Close up of the saftey and how surprisingly well the Wilson drop in grip safety fits. Previous grips. Went back to thin alumagrips.

-- Chuck