Plated bullets are loaded using lead data.

 

I have seen this many times on the forum, and believe it is safe to follow lead data, but the guidance from Rainier on plated bullet loads is to follow jacketed guidelines, rather than lead data:

Rainier recommends using commercially published jacketed bullet load data when loading our projectiles. There is no need for adjustment when using jacketed bullet load data. Our bullets are completely encapsulated in copper, creating a “Total Copper Jacket” (TCJ) through a specialized electroplating process, and are softer than traditionally jacketed bullets.

We recommend a starting powder charge directly between the listed minimum and maximum load found in various published and reputable reloading manuals.

A slight taper or minimal roll crimp may be used with our bullets. Over-crimping plated bullets may result in decreased accuracy, and can result in the fragmentation of copper plating.

 

Now this load data is specified for a jacketed hollow point. Is it a safe assumption that I can load a plated bullet using jacketed bullet data, as long as they are the exact same weight and same shape?

yep..pretty much...with caveat

Also, it it true that you can't push plated bullets as fast as jacket bullets?
!

That's the caveat .
some plated manufactures suggest max velocity of 1500 fps
some as low as 1200fps

not sure where Extreme falls

don't know if "dangerous" above those velocities or if it's matter of tearing plating and accuracy going all to 'ell


..L.T.A.

 

At .38 special velocities, not a problem. At .357 mag velocities, maybe problem.

 

from Xtreme: http://www.xtremebullets.com/Bullet-Load-Info-s/1952.htm


Load Info

Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp

Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp

 

Thanks all, that's good to hear from the website also. So, with a velocity max of 1500 fps, as long as I stay under that, than I should be fine?

About the taper crimp, I was under the impression that revolver rounds should have a roll crimp? Will a roll crimp still work, as long as it is kept light?

 

Will a roll crimp still work, as long as it is kept light?

do their bullets have a cannelure ?

..L.T.A.

 

What you found and listed here should work fine, noting that staying to mid level or below is advised, and that 1200 fps is already supersonic and more than enough velocity. Just note that the actual COL is determined by the location of any crimp groove. Otherwise best to use pretty exactly what the load data lists. As long as there is a crimp groove a distinct roll can be used on the crimp. Otherwise, just reform the case mouth without significantly pinching the bullet (and disturbing the plating). You don't really need a taper crimp die.

 

Some data suggests that plated and jacketed bullets produce about the same velocity with the same load. It's less clear if they produce about the same pressure with the same load.

http://38super.net/Pages/How Fast.html

 

I've loaded a bunch of the X-treme 158 gr RN bullets with a stout charge of 2400 and a good crimp with great results. I didn't have any issues cutting through the plating.

I also used their 240 gr RN 44 cal bullets with a stout charge of H110 with great results.

Just make some dummy rounds with no powder/primer and test the crimp by pulling the bullet to see if it has deformed the bullet or cut through the plating.

 

I shoot Xtreme plated bullets in my M1 Carbine.
1900 FPS with no problems.
Use the Lee rifle FCD.

 

Tim, especially since you are just getting into reloading, I suggest you follow the bullet manufacturer's recommendation cited by superdude. Always better safe than sorry! I would make an exception for the crimp, though. I think you'd be better off with a light roll crimp-just don't cut into the plating. Depending on your 357 die set, you may not even be able to taper crimp.

 

Tim,

I load that very same bullet in 357Mag brass. I use a different powder(Trail Boss) as I am loading soft loads for J frame revolvers at the range. If you stay at or below 1200FPS and use a soft roll crimp into the cannalure that Xtreme puts on their revolver bullets, you will be just fine. Load them up, and enjoy!!

 

Thanks everyone for all the info, I really appreciate it! As you all already know, there is an incredible amount of stuff to read and learn before even loading loading your first round. I just want to make sure I'm doing it all right before I get started.

In regards to a heavy/light roll crimp, how would I be able to tell the difference between one and the other? Do I have to pull the bullet after (from a dummy round), to see just how heavy my crimp was, or is it a visual thing? Does anyone have any pictures of the differences. If it makes a difference, I will be using the Hornady die set (#546527) on my LNL press.

 

I always have a 10x magnifier near my loading area. What I consider a heavy crimp will show signs of abusing the brass. I just look for a distinct roll without damage to the case mouth. I have seldom used bullets with no crimp groove in revolver cartridges, but then only looked for no roll while feeling for whether the edge of the case mouth was softened to the touch. Measuring with calipers is useful also, but with varying case thickness there can be no absolute standard number. I just measure whether the case mouth is either the same as or tapers off slightly from the case body immediately below.

 

I don't crimp that heavy, Cap.
But then I'm not loading magnums, so ...

To the OP...
The CRIMP is not used to hold the bullet in place.
(Although, as Cappi pointed out, that may not be true in all cases).

But in general, the bullet is held in place by case mouth tension,
which is set when the case goes through the resizing die.

All the crimp really does is take out the "bell" that is used to prevent
shaving the bullet when seating.

 

To the OP...
The CRIMP is not used to hold the bullet in place.
(Although, as Cappi pointed out, that may not be true in all cases)..

A good roll crimp with some of the case mouth rolled down into a crimping groove can certainly help a 357 Magnum bullet stay in place in a snappy-recoiling revolver.

A taper crimp generally has only minimal effect on neck tension and can actually reduce neck tension if overdone since the brass case springs back more when compressed than does the lead bullet.

 

Your roll crimp in the photo looks to be fine for a jacketed, full power load. I would back off on the crimp for plated, and low to mid power loads. I really hope that you are having fun, in a learning type mode. Handloading is a rewarding hobby, and one that can be done for decades....if we can find components. Let us know if you closed your eyes when you lit off your very first handload!!

 

Well, I didn't close my eyes but I may have shot from behind the door at the gun club. There was a little bit of a pucker factor when I touched off my first round. After that, I was really enjoying testing out all of the loads of varying weights, with the future father-in-law.