Your thumb safety needs to be fitted to the new hammer and sear. It's not that hard to do, but you'd probably be better off having a knowlegdeable gunsmith fit it for you. Should be around 40-50 bucks.

 

Thanks Smokers. If I modify the thumb safety, will it still work with the original hammer/sear ? another question I have is will the gun work properly without thumb safety ? I won't shoot the gun, just in case I want to test the new hammer for now and want to make sure the test is not a bad test.

Thanks,
1911plus

 

If I modify the thumb safety, will it still work with the original hammer/sear ?

Unlikely.

Thumb safeties depend on the safety, hammer, sear, and frame tolerances.

They rarely 'drop in.'

If you find one that does AND passes the safety checks, buy a lottery ticket.

 

THanks Brickeyee.
I decided to order a new thumb safety, an extended one from Cylender and Slide. I did look around on this forum and followed those advice. I just finished it this morning. I tested it and it passed the safety "Click" test. One new issue that I have after installing new hammer, hammer strut, sear, disconnector, thumb safety is the grip safety. When I clock the hammer and pull the trigger without pressing the grip safety, the hammer will fall. I notice that I when I pull the trigger, the grip safety moves forward itself without having to press it. If I clock the hammer, not pressing the grip safety but hold it(not allow it to move), the hammer will not fall. I have no clue why this issue occurs . Please advise. The new hammer strut is the titanium one from EGW.

Thanks.

 

I think the following the following explanation by pistolwrench is one of the most informative threads in recent memory. It covers how to - and how NOT to - fit a new TS.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=145628

It's so good that it oughta be a sticky.

Best,
Jon