I had to adjust the paws on mine when it was new. It sounds like a small timing issue where the shell plate needs to be full indexed prior to reaching the die.

Instructions should be in your manual.

Make small adjustments and test.

 

I am curious about why you got 45 ACP dies with a roll crimp die? Are you planning on using it just to seat and use another die to make a taper crimp?


I do not know how sharp the bottom edge of the Hornady sizing die is, but several older RCBS dies I have do not have much of a bevel at the mouth and usually require that I wiggle the case around a bit to get it into the die. The worst for this is the old 357 Magnum dies I got back in the '60's. My old 45 ACP die is just a little better. The good thing about those dies is that they size more of the case. This may not be your problem at all, but is something to check if you can't get the press adjusted so you can use your dies successfully.

 

This guy has a great series on Youtube on tuning the LNL press. Consider timing adjustment a normal maintenance item on the LNL. As you make thousands of rounds and parts wear in you should check and adjust the timing. I adjusted the timing when I pulled it out of the box and before I even made my first round. If you get a good handle on timing reloading becomes a breeze on the LNL.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXms1-ZsPnU

P.S. Make sure you have a lock washer on your shellplate screw (another one of 76Highboy Reloading videos). This will also make your life a lot easier.

 

This guy has a great series on Youtube on tuning the LNL press. Consider timing adjustment a normal maintenance item on the LNL. As you make thousands of rounds and parts wear in you should check and adjust the timing. I adjusted the timing when I pulled it out of the box and before I even made my first round.<script id="gpt-impl-0.8174241699565137" src="https://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_79.js"></script> If you get a good handle on timing reloading becomes a breeze on the LNL.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXms1-ZsPnU

P.S. Make sure you have a lock washer on your shellplate screw (another one of 76Highboy Reloading videos). This will also make your life a lot easier.

^^^This! 76Highboys video series really helped me to get my L&L running smooth. I agree with the other posters that say you may need a small pawl adjustment. FWIW I use Lee dies except for the Powder Cop and Powder drop. Use a lock washer on top of the shell plate and still check it often.
JD

 

I'm not familiar with the LNL system as I use a RCBS progressive but I used to have the same type of issue. It was solved by getting the press as level as possible. In my instance the case was "walking" out as the case was elevated causing it to lock up. By getting the press leveled or even pitched more toward the center it kept the case centered. HTH

Longone

 

Since the press is not a living thing and doesn't have paws you might need to adjust the pawls.

 

I would have to manually move the brass (usually more towards center of press) with my finger to align it to the die.

By "manually move ...towards center" do you need to rotate the shell plate? or is the brass not seated in the shell plate cutouts all the way and you are moving the brass toward the center?

If the former there are a few things I could think of (since you have already checked the plate is tight)

1) as suggested, check the timing on the pawls. I had to adjust mine when new, and again at 50k rounds or so

2) be sure there is no debris under the plate causing drag and preventing full rotation of the shell plate.

3) be sure you are seating your primers all the way - if you don't it can drag as it moves to the next station preventing full rotation of the shell plate

 

Another thing to consider for is case tipping. Because of tolerance stacking some LNLs come from the factory with a few extra thousandths between the shell plate and the drive hub. This allows the cases to tip a small degree farther. My press came pretty tight. I bought the shims but haven’t felt the need to adjust this dimension yet.
Here is a good article on the issue.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/4...ums/t_6_42/414607_How_to_tune_the_Hornady_Lock_N_Load_AP_progressive_press.html

There is also the possibility that the brass has thin rims which would allow more tipping. I guess I would rule out the simplest first.

 

I think I found the problem...

After looking at some of you all's suggestions, I tried a couple things. Removed the shell plate, made sure it was clean and than re-installed it. Tried running some brass through just sizing station, with no change. I normally sit in a chair, to the left of center of the press. When I was watching it all really slow, I noticed that this was causing the ram and everything attached to it to rotate ever so slightly CW (from top).

So, I ran the same 5 pieces of brass while intentionally holding the pull lever towards the right, instead of pulling it to the left. This surprisingly seem to make the ram not twist and instead made the press function as well as it does for me while loading 357.

As a machinist by trade, should there really be this much play within the press, that it can be allowed to be twisted out of time? Now I don't have any brass ready to load, so I'll have to wait to try this all out.

By "manually move ...towards center" do you need to rotate the shell plate? or is the brass not seated in the shell plate cutouts all the way and you are moving the brass toward the center?

If the former there are a few things I could think of (since you have already checked the plate is tight)

1) as suggested, check the timing on the pawls. I had to adjust mine when new, and again at 50k rounds or so

2) be sure there is no debris under the plate causing drag and preventing full rotation of the shell plate.

3) be sure you are seating your primers all the way - if you don't it can drag as it moves to the next station preventing full rotation of the shell plate

I was actually leaning the top of the brass towards the center as well as towards the left in order to get them to go into the die. Almost like the timing was too advanced.

Thank everyone for all the advise!!

 

Did you grease under the shell plate? there needs to be a small amount of grease on the detent balls. I had the same problem and ended up finding a video that showed lube points.
It solved my problem.

 

Also there should be a total of 5 spring washers in the ram linkage. Mine was missing one on the shaft by the toggle block. I called and they sent me several replacements and this tightened things up. Also, it is a good idea to put a lock washer under the cap screw that holds the shell plate down.

When the pawls are correctly timed the shell plate will stop right at the center of the ball detents in the shell plate. A good solid click into place. A little bit of adjustment of the pawl adjustment screws goes a long way.

 

. . . Also, it is a good idea to put a lock washer under the cap screw that holds the shell plate down. . . .

I understand where you are coming from and the lock washer has some advantages.

But IME the shellplate can appear to be tight, yet under press leverage it can lift against the lock washer. When it does lift even a couple of .001s, cases will appear to be sticking to the PTX expander, get yanked off, slam into the subplate, and pop powder. Same as if you had a loose shellplate.

Just something to watch for if you use a lock washer.

 

If it's not a timing issue, then it's probably user error. If you aren't consistent with your pulls on the AP press you can short stoke it. The shell plate won't fully rotate. I had those problems when I first got mine. I Was being extra careful when I lowered the handle.

Once you develop some muscle memory and get a really good feel for the press it should run fine.

Every once in a while, mine will still short stroke if I don't pull the handle fast enough. It doesn't bother me much. Just rotate the plate into position. You are not dropping any powder yet, given the brass is just entering the powder funnel.

Having shell plates makes changing dies very easy. The problem is the tolerance within the plate, retention spring, and dies. My station 5 has given me problems in the past with rifle loads. Off center brass.

 

Adjust the pawl

The problem you are having can be fixed easily. There are two adjusting pawls. It shows them in your owners manual. The left pawl co controls lining up the shell plate with the primer. The right pawl (the one you need to adjust) lines the cartridges with the dies. Adjust the right pawl 1/8 turn at a time and observe the cartridge line up with the dies at the top of the stroke.
I have a LNL AP Press. I know what I am talking about. Been there done that. The guys at Hornady are great. Call them with ANY press related problem and they know the answer.

Steve

 

My LNL AP worked fine for a few hundred rounds. Then I started having problems similar to the OP. Called Hornady and the tech couldn't have been more patient and helpful in getting the timing of the pawls adjusted correctly.

+1 on the need to fully seat primers. If way too high, they can tie up the press. If slightly high, they can screw up timing also.

BTW de-capping off the LNL AP is a good plan IMHO. It keeps the dirt from old primers off the press and away from the primer shuttle.

 

Had the same issue with my new machine tried everything under the sun to fix it but nothing worked! Hornady took it back and worked their magic and it has been fine ever since.

 

>Yesterday I was reloading some 45 and got my press dialed in real nice except for one periodic problem. I was having a problem where when the brass would come up to the sizing die, it would not hit the center (where the radius on the die is), instead it would hit off of center just enough to stop the press. In order to finish my reloading, I would have to manually move the brass (usually more towards center of press) with my finger to align it to the die.

Align the die!
First, be sure the shell plate is clean--grime in the slots where the cases go will make the cases off set.
Raise the ram/shell plate all the way up. Holding in the full up position, screw the sizing die down until it just touches the shell plate. If you aren't careful or hold the ram up, the ram can be lowered as you screw the die down.
Lower the ram and insert a case to be sized in the shell plate. Raise the ram and wiggle the die to get the case to go in. While the case is fully in the die, turn the lock ring down tight and lock it.
Now, the die is aligned with the shell plate/case and almost all your problems will go away.

 

Great responses. The Pawls of the LNL do need adjusted periodically and the 76Highboy vids provide some excellent tips on set-up, operation and maintenance of the LNL AP.

 

My pre-L-N-L progressive had lock bolts that locked down the adjustment bolts for the pawls. I bought my first Hornady progressive when they fist came out (late '70s?), and NEVER adjusted a pawl, until one broke.
On my L-N-L, I have never adjusted a pawl on it and it was one of the first made.
From messages, I assume that Hornady got rid of the bolts that locked the adjustment bolts in position? As I remember, they even went so far as to put paint over the lock bolts--either to see if you had been playing or to lock the lock bolts down?
There better not be enough wear to need to adjust pawls.