Here is the info on EGW's site.

EGW explored making a ball head disconector in 1994, at the time the cost of a mold and the tolerances that we were offered just would not work for us.

This year we started machining parts from solids using Gibbscam and Solid works. Our customers are very pleased with our Heavy Duty Slide Stop and Thumb Safety.

We start with 4140 steel and machine the profile with a few changes. We made the top taller so the disconnector does not drag on the sear pin. This is important when you doing trigger work under 2 ¼ lbs since you can feel everything at that weight.

Next, we added the ball head to get rid of the click sometimes found on 1911 guns caused by the head moving back and fourth in the frame hole. Often gunsmiths' stake the hole to close it up and remove the click.The ball head is a better solution to this problem.

We also altered the geometry of the disconnector where it sticks into the magwell so it is not tripped when inserting a loaded magazine. This could cause an accidental discharge when reloading with a live round in the chamber. This alteration allows for an upgrade in the area of safety on your 1911.

We machine this in one of our 5 Made in USA Fadals. Then they go off to Solar Atmosphere for vacuum heat treat which is less stressful than conventional.

 

We made the top taller so the disconnector does not drag on the sear pin. This is important when you doing trigger work under 2 ¼ lbs since you can feel everything at that weight.

Next, we added the ball head to get rid of the click sometimes found on 1911 guns caused by the head moving back and fourth in the frame hole. Often gunsmiths' stake the hole to close it up and remove the click.

Disconnector click - VERY bad. Ball head - VERY good solution.

Is this click felt or heard? Between the actual firing and earplugs, I don't hear much in the way of action noise...:biglaugh:

 

The ball disconnector may NOT be a drop in part in your pistol. I like the disconnector, a LOT! However, I have to fit them to the disonnector hole. I would much rather do this, than to have the stupid click though!

Very good part.

 

Disconnector click - VERY bad. Ball head - VERY good solution.

 

If you have disconnector click you can feel it when you take up slack on the trigger. The old school standard fix was to deepen the slot in the slide above the disconnector with a gouge/scraper tool. Some people will try to shorten the disconnector - never do this. If shortened too much the gun can double or go full auto because the shortened disconnector will not allow the sear to reset between cycles. The click is not really a big deal but it drives some shooters crazy.

 

Hi All,

Good to see some feedback on this, thank you!

The "other" fix was to stake behind and in some cases in front of the disconector hole with a punch to swage the hole closed. It helps in some cases, causes binds in some cases too.

The Ball head fills the hole but allows the disc to pivot. When you load the trigger to fire the head has enough force pushing it forward from the trigger till the sear breaks to move, often with a click both felt and audible.

Yes the hole in YOUR frame may be a Smig (AU. term) smaller than the ball head and require polishing down .001

best to all,

geo

www.egwguns.com

 

Yes the hole in YOUR frame may be a Smig (AU. term) smaller than the ball head and require polishing down .001

best to all,

geo

I put one in my SA Mil Spec last week. I can confirm it took a little twisting the ball in some fine sandpaper for a couple of minutes to get it to fit in my Milspec. Worked like a charm, though, no more disconnector clicking.

Love your parts, George, I've got your fire control parts in both my 1911s. And more stuff on order. I'll be hitting you up later this year about threading an AR10T barrel for me, if you make another run of 'em.

BTW, grew up in Emmaus! What a gorgeous state you live in.

CJH
Las Vegas, NV

 

Big +1 for EGW parts. I wish everyone else offered the variety, innovation and level of quality as EGW. Especially the square bottom FPS. That was truly a GREAT idea. Thanks George. Long may you run.

 

Just installed two more!! One fit, one I had to twist in 600 grit like 4 times and then it fit.

I've also switched to the EGW hard sears instead of EE's too. I have to prep them by polishing the primary and adding the secondary angle, but I'm starting to like them better than the others sears I've used.

Your results may very, but I put the ball-disco, hard sear and Koenig hammer in a Trojan and without touching the sear spring it was under 2#'s. I added a bit of tension to get it up to 2.5. Very good feel tough.