You have a mistaken idea about how triggers work. The trigger bow must be within certain tolerances ( think thousandths of an inch ) to be functional in a given frame. Single stack 1911s and double stack. The trigger bow is typically fixed to the trigger shoe and is not switchable. The choice on length of pull is done by different length shoes being manufactured onto the bow. The shoe being the part your finger contacts and the part visible on an assembled weapon.
Does that help with your concerns?
Joe

 

OK, it appears I meant to say trigger shoe, not bow. I need to switch shoes on the same bow-correct? is that easy to do? I do not want to fit another trigger bow. This might be a job for a gunsmith.

 

Is it the reach for the trigger or the travel of the trigger that is the issue?
If the travel is fine but the trigger just sits too far forward you could get one with a reduced "pad", here's a couple of examples of Wilson triggers so you can see the difference... "Short Pad" vs "Long Pad"

I leave trigger work to my gunsmith, but others with more experience instal these by themselves.

 

Get the trigger you want and install it yourself. Then do the safety checks listed in this forum. If it passes, you are done. If it does not pass, visit your pistolsmith.

 

I would go with the SVI modular trigger. It will aloow you to change the shoe to fit your grip. Here are a couple of examples. They don't have to be flat ones, but that is my preference

Here's a long one

and here's a short one

 

Thanks. So it seems that I have to change both the bow and the shoe, as they are inseparable. My trigger has too long reach for my crooked finger. Overtravel is fine, and generally it is a nice trigger. I think I am going with Greider medium-SVI triggers look too complex and expensive. I will have a gunsmith install the new trigger. Just do not want to screw the otherwise nice gun.

 

That's a good choice. If the medium is still a little too long you can take it (sand it) down where it fits YOU. If you don't feel comfortable sanding the shoe yourself, and you don't want a smooth pad, then have your smith fit a short trigger. I sympathize as I just finished converting my last 1911 to fit my hand due to Scleroderma. I would probably have been better off with a short trigger to begin with. I personally see no reason for serrations on a pad. John Harrison makes a short smooth trigger that is often suggested. Good luck.