Kroil, Hoppe's #9, Chore Boy for cleaning. Any light synthetic oil.

 

I use aerosol automotive brake parts cleaner in the "nook-and-cranny" areas like the magazine well and the interior of the slide, Butch's Bore Shine in the bore, on the gun's exterior and the other surfaces my fat fingers can reach and Kimber's recommended lubricant, Shooter's Choice FP-10 on the moving parts.

Ed

 

I use aerosol automotive brake parts cleaner in the "nook-and-cranny" areas like the magazine well and the interior of the slide...
Ed

Brake cleaners certainly do the job -- sometimes too well, considering the parts are absolutely denuded of oils and lubricants.

My 2¢ tips on Brakleen™:
-Use only chlorine-free brake cleaners. Chlorine makes small steel parts brittle and prone to breaking.
-Use compressed air to completely dry those "nook-and-cranny" areas, otherwise any lube you reapply will be partially dissolved by the cleaner.
-Lube well with a light lube like Eezox or Ballistol, then use compressed air to blow it into the "nook-and-cranny" areas to prevent corrosion.
-Compressed air note: When air compresses condensation develops, particularly if your compressor is in a cold garage. Be careful you're not blasting your freshly-cleaned pistol with atomized H2O. I prefer to use the canned compressed air for computers, etc.

 

Hoppe's #9, REM-oil & lots of former tee shirts.

 

Then I lube with CLP, Hoppe's Oil, or Outer's Gun Oil. Whichever bottle is closest at the time. My 1911's function the same with any of the three.

 

For general cleaning, I use Eds Red. For copper fouling of the bore, I use Hoppes 9. For general lubrication, I use a " modified " Eds Red again.

 

I use Hoppe's for cleaning, RemOil or other quality lube for general rust prevention, and a light coat of Mobil 1 for bearing surfaces. MOBIL 1:scratch:!!??? Yep! Think about it....it's designed to stay in place, it retains its viscosity and lubricity at extreme high and low temps, and it does NOT burn off like other oils will. I use it in all of my semi-auto weapons on bearing and high-heat areas.

 

I use Hoppe's for cleaning.

 

Why would cleaning a Kimber be different than any other pistol?

 

Ditto. Or rifle, or shotgun or carburetor....ok maybe not carburetor.

 

I use Strike Hold to clean, and Frog Lube to "oil", never had an issue with this combo.

 

A lot of my high-volume shooting friends really like this stuff.

 

Regarding brake parts cleaner's stripping of all oils, I do reapply oil to the places that need it as well as a light coating on the exterior of the barrel. I've been using it for many years on all kinds of quality firearms with no problems. You do have to be careful not to get it on any wood as it will erode some finishes.

It's also great for shotguns. If you ever find plastic fouling from shotshell wads in your gun's choke or forcing cone, brake cleaner will make the plastic shrivel up and come right out with a bore brush.

Ed

 

It's just best to try several different cleaning solvents. You will see the difference when you clean your gun. Some of the new stuff looks nice on paper. Some of the old stuff works much better. Even on a Kimber.

 

I use Frog Lube and love the stuff! It cleans very well and then I apply a light coat to parts and it's ready to go. Smells good too lol

 

Okay, here's the sacrilege. For the barrel and all smaller parts, I will use a Harbor Freight sonic cleaner with either Simple Green, or Hornidy parts cleaner. For the slide and frame I keep a small bucket of kerosene for a quick soak. A dozen passes with a brass brush on the barrel and a little scrub with a toothbrush on the slide and frame followed by a blow job with compressed air and all four of my stainless Kimbers are ready for a light lube (rails and wear surfaces) and back to the range bag--at least for three of them. IMHO, gun lubes and such remind me of the tale about fishing lures, made to catch the fishermen.

 

Hornady One Shot spray Cleaner and Lube to clean all parts.
Wilson grease for the slide rails.
Slick 50 one spray lube for the remaining contact surfaces.

 

essox for cleaning mobil 1 for lube keeps mine running and reliable.

 

/\winner winner/\

I use Hoppe's for barrel and general cleanup, if it is stainless and just kind of funky I might use some Simple Green. I then use a mix of dexIII (auto trans fluid) and STP engine treatment as a grease on sliding/high friction points (slide/frame rails, top of barrel, barrel bushing) and just dexIII for oil on rotating/non high friction points (disconnector, sear spring, trigger bow, mag release, slide stop, sear and hammer).

 

Good, old Hoppes. I don't know if it is the best, but the smell brings back memories. I even ask my wife to put a dab behind her ear.:biglaugh:

 

I use Frog Lube. It's a great CLP. I use their solvent after heavy range days, then use their paste for CLP. I use their liquid Frog Lube on the barrel and slide. I've tried different cleaners and lubricants but this is the best stuff. Everyone has their preferences.

 

Slip2000 carbon killer for the chamber and Slip2000 EWL for everything else.

 

Hoppes #9 and lube with Mobil One. All of my firearms get the same treatment.

 

Quick and easy for me. Hoppes #9 is good stuff. For cleaning the barrel I like Shooter's Choice MC#7. For cleaning the slide and frame M-Pro 7 works the best for me. For lube I like Shooter's Choice FP-10. This is Kimber's recommended lube. I like Rem-Oil. It's a very good lubricant. Outer's make some good lubes also. But these are thin lubes. My gun would seep oil like a torpedoed oil freighter. FP-10 is a thicker lube. It doesn't seep. A few drops on a Q-Tip goes a long way. And after shooting a couple hundred rounds the FP-10 is still there when I clean the gun.

 

Hoppe's on the bore and SIMPLE GREEN on the frame and slide, water rinse and blow dry then a good coat of ATF works good for me.

 

Hoppes #9

 

I like Simple Green. I use it to clean my diesel tractor once a year. Not something that I would want to put on a nice gun. Or ATF either.

 

Hoppes and Kroil for cleaning. Lubriplate and ATF for lube.