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What OWB leather holster do I need?

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#22 ·
ColinClive said:
I just got a new Garrison 1911 5-inch barrel .45 ACP in SS. I just returned my second newly purchased online OWB holster. Thumb snaps did not line up as the strap was too short. Worse yet when drawing the pistol from the holster in the cocked and locked position, the safety chaffed / caught on the holster moving the safety to the fire position. Not good. Many manufactures state their holsters fit my make and model. They don't.

If you have the same pistol as I just bought and have also bought an OWB leather holster that functions as it should, would you please tell me the make and model number.

I am right-handed. I prefer a belt loop OWB full depth leather holster but one that leaves an inch of the barrel sticking out at the bottom is OK. It can be with or without a thumb snap. Not interested in polyethylene or locking LEO type holsters. Your advice is much appreciated.
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Then check out Jason Winnie J111 holsters, I have a few of them, and when I carry OWB I use them above all others. Link: Jason Winnie Leathergoods
 
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#26 · (Edited)
I have a Tauris Standard Hip Holster with retention strap. Very good quality and usually only takes about two weeks. As received, the strap needed to be slightly stretched for the snaps to engage in condition 1. Just twist and pull to elongate the strap.

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#27 ·
I've been using the same Bianchi Askins Avenger holster for either a Ransall A111 (copy of a 1911A1) or a Colt 1911A1XSE for probably 35 years. Used it when I was on the job in a plain clothes assignment and off duty. Retired now and still use it, even though I have copies of Nelson's design from other custom holster makers. That's Bianchi's version of the old style that I "think" was first made by Bruce Nelson. It's an OWB, open top, high-rise, straight drop; covers the trigger guard but not the safety. Still pretty snug after all these years. If you do an online search you will probably find some called an Askins Avenger or other name or model number that display different degrees of cant or rake. That's not the original design.
 
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#28 ·
FDM1 said:
Yeah, he is an authority :rolleyes:
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ME??? 🤨

He does have a point. Many like to say JMB designed the 1911 to be carried C&L. But (insert beating dead 🐎 here) as originally designed in 1910, the pistol did NOT have the thumb safety. Just like the 1905, 1907, 1909, and 1910. It was added later.

Still never found out if it was done by JMB or by Colt? :unsure:
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Icepick15 said:
I've been using the same Bianchi Askins Avenger holster for either a Ransall A111 (copy of a 1911A1) or a Colt 1911A1XSE for probably 35 years. Used it when I was on the job in a plain clothes assignment and off duty. Retired now and still use it, even though I have copies of Nelson's design from other custom holster makers. That's Bianchi's version of the old style that I "think" was first made by Bruce Nelson. It's an OWB, open top, high-rise, straight drop; covers the trigger guard but not the safety. Still pretty snug after all these years. If you do an online search you will probably find some called an Askins Avenger or other name or model number that display different degrees of cant or rake. That's not the original design.
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Icepick15:

Thanks for the input. I've owned many long guns, pistols and revolvers but always wanted a .45 and now i have one. I was thinking of "small of the back" or "cross draw" outside waist band. Leaning towards cross draw. In your experience. Are there any drawbacks to either positions? See attached.

I'm not the Rambo type. 71 year old trying to retire civil engineer. I do not carry every day, just when I think I should given where I am headed that day or time. I think an individuals brain is their greatest weapon. I focus on keeping myself out of potentially bad situations.

A lot of cheap holsters out there. I do believe that generally speaking, one gets what one pays for. A lot of the better holsters are North of $150. I think it's the leather that is the difference. The cheap ones all seen to be really thick when stitched together. The first one I returned, the individual leather piece was 3/16-in thick. Sown together 7/16-in thick. That's a lot of leather. No need to respond unless you want to. Thanks again.

Greg
 

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#31 · (Edited)
If you want options, the Galco Phoenix gives both strongside and crossdraw (driving, tractor, mower) in the same quality leather holster.
Can’t recommend small of back carry.

See post #14.
Garrison 5” 1911 in a Galco Phoenix, see numbers on backside photo.
PHX212
No issue carrying C&L with thumb safety disengagement by strap on draw.
 
#32 ·
mkk41 said:
ME??? 🤨

He does have a point. Many like to say JMB designed the 1911 to be carried C&L. But (insert beating dead 🐎 here) as originally designed in 1910, the pistol did NOT have the thumb safety. Just like the 1905, 1907, 1909, and 1910. It was added later.

Still never found out if it was done by JMB or by Colt? :unsure:
Click to expand...

Not you whatsoever, but I don’t agree with the holster maker you referred to in your other post.
Don’t know this to be a fact but I had an old war horse instructor years ago who had some internal interactions with various gun manufacturers who said that JMB was not at all on board with the thumb safety but had depicted a “slide latch“ (thumb safety?) on some original drawings but thought it unnecessary because of the grip safety but the military required.
 
#33 ·
Gary1911A1 said:
I recommend an Avenger type holster as most pants have belt loops to short apart to allow most holster to fit without skipping a belt loop.
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Straddle the belt loops.

Almost all of my pants have a belt loop at about 3:30. A typical pancake perfectly straddles that belt loop, especially since the loops on the pancake are so narrow.

A straight drop #1 Professional (55BN or Avenger type) with the wide tunnel loop also straddles those 3:30 loops on my pants for 3:00 wear, but the wide tunnel loop on a canted #1 Professional is a little difficult with a 3:30 belt loop.
 
#34 ·
Haven't carried a 1911 all that long but here's our take on OWB holsters. Like mods to your blaster, simpler is better IOHO. Have used Thad Rybka Rhodesian rigs for more than a few years; simple, secure and quick. A 40+ year old (1983) Rybka and a more recent clone from Rafter-L. This is our all-time favorite holster design.
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Recently however we have been using the new Thunderclap from Galco with our CCOs. It too is simple and secure and stradles a belt loop if necessary. Had to add a tension screw after about 6-9 moths of use but we like a bit more than too little retention.

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#39 ·
No spacer. Just a brass Chicago screw with a leather washer to squeeze the holster body a bit; been doing this to rigs for years. Simple and works great. However, drilling the hole in a $200 holster is a bit stressful.
 
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