Cool project. Yes to more pics!

 

I like STI 2011 style pistols, and have been shooting an STI 2011 open gun in USPSA for about 30 years, and an STI 2011 non compensated pistol for IDPA for about 20 years. About ten years or so ago, I started building my own pistols.....1911's and STI style 2011 high cap guns. I don't own a mill or lathe, and do everything with hand tools, files, and a drill press.

I don't believe STI sells 80% or less steel frames. I have bought STI 2011 style 100% steel frames for quite some time, since they became available once STI lost their patent on the 2011 frame. I purchased an STI 2011 100% steel frame with a W/N ramp cut through Brazos Custom guns in Texas about six months ago, and had to have it shipped to a local firearms dealer since I don't own an FFL. The frame was $350 plus shipping then I paid a $30 dollar transfer fee and filled out a form 4473 to purchase the frame since it had a serial number. The STI 2011 frame from Brazos was very good, and I only had to cut the desired length of the long extended frame rails to make a Commander style 2011 gun. I have found STI 2011 style frames for less money, however, all of the other suppliers I checked were out of stock. I also purchased a Rock Island 4.25" (blued) Commander length 9mm slide, complete with a fiber optic orange front sight and an LPA adjustable rear sight for $189.00 off e-bay. This slide did not have a cut for using a bushing at the muzzle, so I also purchases a commander length bull barrel for $89. I flat filed the underside of the slide until it was snug, then lapped the slide grooves for a very close fit..... There was very little fitting needed for the bull barrel, but the barrel was originally a Clark/Lissner ramped barrel. I modified and cut the barrel to make a W/N ramp which worked fine. I have about $1200 in parts for my build, which is now an STI style hi-cap 9mm Commander. I used a coyote tan modular grip, and with the blued slide and the gun metal gray frame, it looks pretty cool. The gun works great, and I now rotate this gun with my STI 2011 style hi-cap .38 super Commander, which I often use for concealed carry.

 

I’ve never seen or heard of sti selling 80% frames
limited-10 out of CA did sell them several years ago

 

Several years ago, I purchased an STI style 2011 100% steel frame from L-10 machine, and made my first 2011 build. The frame was very good, and I ordered a W/N ramp cut. A year later, I purchased another STI style frame from them, and made a second 2011 build. They also offered aluminum frames, but I prefer steel for optimal durability.

 

I thought the same... I couldn't recall ever seeing any STI 80% frames. I bought mine from Spectre Supply. They said they were STI frames that were basically blems due to the dust covers being thicker on one side than the other.

But surprisingly the frames I've gotten so far the dust covers are even and in spec. Everything I have fit up has been right on the money so far. So I'm happy with them. I will say that these require a bit more milling than say an L-10, Black Mtn, etc. I would say they are closer to a 65-70% frame. But nothing major, just a bit more work.

Rwehavinfunyet, I'm finishing mine pretty much the same way. Though I'm using a Router with an end mill also. Otherwise I rely on my Drill Press, Files and Jigs. Though I have made some of my own jigs at work. I burn out 3/16-1/4" stainless plate on our burn table to rough dimensions. Then I used the Bridgeport and end Mills to clean up my openings.

I have my eye on a Precision Mathews benchtop mill. I'm hoping if all goes well, to have the mill itself within the next year. Then hopefully get the CNC motors and shafts purchased and installed the year after. I don't mind running manual, just time consuming.

 

Been busy with work so I hadn't been able to update this as much as I would like. But I got some more work in on this frame, it's definitely much more work than the average 80% frame. Plus I believe some of the relief cuts on top of the frame were out of spec? In particular these toward the front:

These cuts are a little too far forward from what I can tell. But it may be more of a cosmetic thing, as I had just enough meat to be able to profile a matching frame ramp to the barrel ramp:

This is not "complete" yet, I've only roughly gotten this shaped like I want. Plus I may have to take this frame ramp back further, I have more fitting to do to figure this out. I'm thinking I'll have to push it back somewhat.

The rear of the magwell is also "roughly" shaped. I know I'll probably get ridiculed for this, but I have done all the milling on this thing by hand. A lot of file work and very careful work with a Dremel and a couple different carbide end mills. I wouldn't recommend this method per say, it's slow and easy to mess up real fast.

 

Here's the back of the magwell:

Here's a shot of what I started out with compared to what I had to cut away too:

 

It may be a good idea to check the laws about manufacturing your own gun. Taking a piece of steel or aluminum frame that will not fire, does not have serial numbers, and turning it into a shooting firearm means you have manufactured a pistol, and may require a manufacturers license.....or at the very least, you may need an FFL. I purchase STI 2011 frames, have them shipped to a gun shop, then fill out the form 4473, and the frame is then transferred to me....and I give the gun shop owner $30 for transferring the frame to me.... I only make pistols for my own use, and never resell them.....since the frame has a serial number and I purchased it through a gun shop, I could sell a completed gun, but I keep them for my own use.

 

Yes sir, understood. I have checked with several different sources, my attorney and the ATF directly as well as spoke to a few local LE officers. Luckily I live in a state with no restrictions on these, as long as I'm making them for myself and not selling them. If I were to ever get into selling them then I would need to have have a Type 07 FFL.

These are personal handguns, they can never be sold unless I were to serialize and register them via 4473 to myself first. Then I would "technically" be able to transfer one to another individual. But, then your getting into a gray area there depending on how many times you would do that in a year's time.

I transfer all serialized firearms same as everyone else, via an FFL on form 4473. These frames are for my own personal use and will never be transferred. I suppose if a law were ever passed that requires me to register them to myself, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I'll serialize them and register them like any other.

Any gun that I take the time to build, I never sell. I really don't even sell my serialized firearms but I suppose I could as they can transfer. I keep a copy of the ATF regulations on homemade "unserialized" firearms on hand in hard copy. I also follow the ATF website for any changes to the regulations as well as the WV state regulations.

Here's a link to the page on ATF website:

Does an individual need a license to make a firearm for personal use? | Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives

No, a license is not required to make a firearm solely for personal use. However, a license is required to manufacture firearms for sale or distribution. The law prohibits a person from assembling a non–sporting semiautomatic rifle or shotgun from 10 or more imported parts, as well as firearms...

www.atf.gov

As long as you live in a state/area that has no laws against building homemade firearms for "personal use only", then you are within the law according to current ATF regs. If you were making firearms for "sale or distribution" then you are required to have a Type 07 FFL, which is for firearms only.

But I always recommend covering your bases when it comes to these things. Make 100% sure you are following the law. Check local and state regulations because they can override this ATF regulation depending on your location.

 

Very Cool, I had to just create a profile here, just to say that I will be following along...

I have a couple of these same frames and have been thinking about busting out the old 1911 toolbox and finishing one up.

Curious about what you used to cut the mag well open and how you did that. I have built a SS 9mm about 10 years ago and more recently (2015, hahaha) a commander 9mm bull barrel.

 

Hey Dakine_Surf, welcome to the forum...

So to be honest, this should be done with a mill. But, if you have "hand" skills and indefinite patience, take extreme care and remove material very slow and file once you get close, then you can do this the way I did.

But I don't recommend it, lol, but it can be done. I did it this way for practice and to learn. Download the 1911 prints first, they are invaluable and you can check dimensions and angles, etc. Here's the Dim's:

1911 Prints Share - Shared with pCloud

Keep all your files safe, access them on any device you own and share with just the right people. Create a free pCloud account!

u.pcloud.link

I got dimensions from the above links, Kuhnhausen's and from factory finished frames I have on hand.

I used a small router, "Dremel with router attachment", for the machining. I used an assortment of tungsten carbide square and ball end mills. First thing I did was milled this area, "blued area" nearly flat save for 0.002 above it's finished height. I only got within 0.050 or so of the front/back openings and finished it to final dimensions with several different files:

Then once this top area is milled away, then I used the same tool without router attachment and files to slowly get the back of the magwell and the barrel ramp areas. I also used a lower grip frame and .40 magazine to help get final profile of this area. I used a .40 cal mag since this gun is going to be a .40SW.

The frame on the right, the barrel ramp will still go back a little more. Once the slide/barrel are fit, I'll push this frame ramp area back to match the barrels ramp. So it's not at final depth/angle yet.

I used the Matrix jig for the rails and used their drilling jig. The drilling jig is a great holding jig to help secure the frame in a vise/slide vise. I've had good luck with everything I've gotten from them so far. The rails are one thing I couldn't machine like I did the mag opening, they must be right.

Hopefully this helps out, I'll hopefully have my mill set up this fall/winter. I'm still building the shop it will reside in so for now I'm anxiously awaiting when I fire it up. It will make doing this so much more precise and less time consuming, lol...

 

Wow, thanks for taking the time to write that up and post the pictures... I really appreciate it!

That's not too far off my skillset, but like you, I am also awaiting a garage to build out a shop so I can get a mill. Might wait on these frames and pick one up that is a true 80% for my first 2011 build

 

Yeah I would check around and pick up a "normal" 80 to do before doing one of these. But like I said, it can be done this way it's just the hard way, lol...

I picked these up on GB, if you check around you can get the normal 80's for around the same price. I will say these have been in spec so far. I haven't run into anything that is off. Pretty happy with them so far.

If you need any help doin yours just let me know, I'm happy to help. I also forgot to mention that I use several different vise's to hold these frames. Keeping them 100% solid while cutting, no movement or chance of movement, is what you want. I will also use a slide vise mounted to my drill press. Just depends on what I need to do. A Jewelers vise and an angle vise is two others I use a lot.

 

I can't remember where I got mine... but I am pretty sure they are the ones with the dust cover that is slightly thicker... I got 3 of them years ago, might have been GB as well.

Been looking at Limited-10 and Rogue 80%'s to use on my matrix jigs. Those look to be decently made.

Might take you up on the help... Like I said it's been 5/6 years since I built a 1911.

Wonder the legality of having someone with a mill cut the magwell out of my paperweight and then I finish at home. Technically they would just be bringing it from 70% to 80%, might be a grey area I shouldn't mess around with...

 

I would be nervous to have a Smith do it, because it would technically be a gray area. Once I buy one, I do everything to it from there on including the finish. I always try to be, if anything overly cautious when it comes to these just to be on the safe side.

 

Same here, I did everything on my previous builds, but until I get a shop and mill setup (might be a couple years) might be best to pick up a few other frames and start with those... Most of the guys with mills that I know have all retired, moved, or unfortunately have passed on.

 

Rogue Tactical makes some really good 80% 2011 frames. Eric is also a member here.

 

I have been looking at theirs and it looks quality... they used to be Limited-10 right?

 

Been a little while, between work and the holidays finally over with I got a little time to work on this 2011 build. So I picked up a bald, carbon steel 5" 9mm slide and just finished up fitting it to this frame:

This one has turned out the best so far when it comes to being tight. It slides like it's on glass, definitely took a couple frames to get a feel for the process. Going easy and keeping the lapping compound off while using oil too. Worked great and is a nice tight fit:

The rails are nice and clean at the back too:

Shot of the front:

Don't mind the two dark smudges, just a little cosmo I didn't get cleaned off. Anyway I got this one fit up, on to the barrel. It's getting a stainless, 5" 9mm Bull Barrel. Sending it off to get tri-topped and slide serrations. Haven't decided on the style. I'm only doing rear serrations, Bomar cut rear and front dovetails.

Still need to get some small parts, going to pick up a SVI Stainless Thumb Relief grip safety. Going with stainless controls then have them all nitrided after fitting. I'm going to parkerize the frame then shoot Cerakote over it. Then refit everything and start shooting it in.

Got the other frame machined out and ready to go. It's getting a .40cal slide and Bar-Sto .40SW Bull Barrel which I have but need to fit up. After comparing these frames to an STI with the same rail cut under the dustcover, they do look like they're STI/SVI rejects or blems. Both companies put out frames with identical light rails. I'm going to put a single cross cut in the rail at the same location as the STI frame I'm pulling dimensions from. The reason I'm going for the SVI grip safety is because it's a nearly perfect match already. Less fitting is fine with me. Hopefully it won't be another 10 months before I update it again...

 

Ok so I wanted to throw a few more pics up and details on the barrel fitting. This is the first time I've fit a bull barrel and it was a little different than fitting a bushing barrel.

So first off, I began fitting the hood looking to achieve a "hard fit" barrel. What I didn't realize at first was that the O.D. of the bull barrel wasn't allowing the barrel to can't enough inside the slide. So I was fitting the hood, marking and checking as I went. As I filed down the hood, I wasn't reaching the point where the lugs engage. I wasn't getting that "click" because the bull barrel OD toward the muzzle was preventing the barrel from tilting enough to engage the lugs.

So I ended up cutting the hood a bit too short for my liking. Lesson learned, now I'm trying to find someone to either Tig or Microweld the hood for me. I've tried all the more popular companies and haven't gotten any responses. So if anyone can weld this hood or knows someone who can weld it for me please let me know? I would appreciate it.

So I'm running a FLGR, two piece. It's well made, but I am leary of the two piece design. It cycles pretty smoothly but is hanging up slightly when the slide is all the way back. The reverse plug is an EGW Supported Plug. After thinking it over I think I'm just going to order a closed end, supported reverse plug and run a GI guide rod/spring. I like the clean look of the closed end plug and the simplicity of the GI recoil spring setup.

Disregard the old GI grip safety. I just put it in temporarily as I haven't fit the new EGW HD Grip Safety and Thumb Safety yet. Hoping I have some time before I go back out to work to begin fitting them up.