Thank you for making this particular info a 'Sticky" .... With the popularity of the Dan Wesson guns at an all time high, especially the Duty Treated guns, there's been a ton of inquiries concerning this very topic as of late.

 

I've mentioned this in other threads about this topic: I'm pretty sure Keith is referring to Break-Free CLP by Safariland. If you read the packaging of FP-10, you will see that it is another type of CLP (cleans, lubes, protects) product.

 

Break Free CLP is what I have. And used on my Kimber.

 

Great thread!

 

Eezox and rand clp have been perfect for my specialist

 

Yes, this would be the actual Breakfree CLP product, and not a catch-all for all products that clean, lube, and protect. Although I can't say if other all-in-one products have the same effects on Duty Finish or not.

 

Another product that will pull the oils out of the finish and leave it dull is tape. I used some low adhesion blue painters tape from 3M to mask an area on the slide and when I peeled it off it was permanently dulled in a perfect line where the tap was. Soaking in WD40 for a couple of weeks helped a little but still there.

Duty Treat/Hard Hat is still my favorite finish and it is the toughest finish IMO.......it's just a different product than the garden variety coatings. It reacts to certain things that pull the oils out of the finish whether it be harsh solvents of even something as benign as tape.

Harsh solvents are not required to keep up the finish anyway. The tape mark took me by surprise.

 

People may get the impression that Duty Treat is a very delicate and easily ruined finish. This NOT the case. Only a few products will negatively affect DT - and I believe that all products with toluene should be avoided. If you read the warning label of some products it is indicated that there may be negative reactions with wood, polymer, bluing, etc. - I stay away from them. Gun specific oil based products (DW rail lube, EB lube, FP-10), Hoppe's No 9, FireClean have proven safe in a test I did on DT scrap. There are many others but it's a good idea to test in an out of the way area. Duty Treat is a terrific finish that will stand up to most oil based cleaners. Readers should post what has proven SAFE for them.

 

Great thread to be a sticky. As specified, I've only used FP-10 on both DW's. For all of my other guns, I use G96 Gun Treatment with no issues including the oil rubbed bronze nitron finish on the Sig 1911 Spartan. Can anyone confirm if G96 will be safe on the duty finish? I can try some underneath the grips but prefer not to.

 

If the DT on a DW does get a little cloudy in a few spots will letting it soak for a few days in kroil,fp-10 or others return the oil back into the finish and bring it back to its blacker color?

 

I haven't had to do that but Glenn @ DW customer service recommended Shooter's Choice FP-10 for everything & Kano Kroil for stubborn stains.

 

^^cool I will soak the slide with kroil,let it set for a few days and let you all know how it comes out. thx

 

Sounds good! I'd like to know as well. Before & after pics (in same environment & lighting) would be great!

 

FIRECLEAN....Safe to use ????? I have a brand new CCO and sure hate to ruin my FIRST 1911...Man what a shooter this gun is

 

I've been using FP-10 for lube, and Break Free (quicker to spray some on a patch) for wiping for a long time and haven't seen any adverse effects on the Duty Finish, which still looks like new. I will heed the reccomendation and switch though.

 

Is there any way to get a touch up pen for Duty?

 

I ordered a small bottle of Militec 1 and it kind of scares me after reading the bottle and it talking about permanently changing the metal

 

Duty treat is a process like Tennifer, it's not like you can use a paint pen to touch it up. If it looks dry, try oiling it and letting it soak in for a bit? If it's on Carbon, cold blue MAY work, but I am not sure.

 

Tw25?

Anyone tried tw25 yet? Came with my Sigs and I've used it on all my 1911 rails and barrels/bushings. All the other pieces/parts that turn and slide get Rem Oil.

Nick

 

Anyone tried tw25 yet? Came with my Sigs and I've used it on all my 1911 rails and barrels/bushings. All the other pieces/parts that turn and slide get Rem Oil.

Nick

I used it as recommended by Sig Sauer on my Sig 1911's, P238 and P938 with no problems at all. I also used it on my S&W Shield ... performed perfectly.

Different manufacturers and different gunsmiths will all have differing opinions on how to lubricate a 1911. Some gunsmiths actually swear by Gunslick. I don't think there is any single, correct answer. If it works for your weapon, it works. DW even goes so far as to recommend not just that oil be used, but that one of only 3 or 4 specific brands be used. I've sure never had a problem with M-Pro7, but I switched based on their recommendation because I don't want any warranty issues.

 

^ I've used TW25B on certain pistols, in certain areas, for over 20+yrs now .... no complaints yet .... doesn't take much, a little goes a long way.

 

SpartyME I've not used anything but Militec 1 inside and out on my 2 DW RZ's, 1 Guardian and my 6 DW revolvers the few years. Also use it on my Colt LWC Talo Special I use as truck gun which I often carry in the woods. The two Commander's are accurate, but the DW rested easily bests the Colt. That said in real world they both shoot with very deadly accuracy.

 

Sounds like Kieth doesn't have a very good grasp on what lube is supposed to do. Why is this a sticky??

 

Keith DW - if that's who you're referring to - has great knowledge about lube as well as which ones work effectively with Duty Treatment.
This thread was originally intended to build a knowledge base for what lubes and cleaners worked with DW Duty Treatment - and that's why it was made a STICKY. There are several cleaners and CLPs out there that have stripped the oils from the finish which resulted in blotches and 'rust' spots. Unfortunately, posters have turned this into a 'lube' and picture post! In other words, the thread has been hijacked.

 

You know so far I can't tell any difference between my Militec 1 and the Mobil 1 0w-20 then 0w-40 I moved up to about 15 years ago. I never had any dirt build up, gun freeze in sub zero weather, rust/pitting problems.

Over the years I've taken a lot of kidding about changing the oil in my guns, but I think about all the money I saved. None of the cars or trucks the last 35 years has ever missed a couple ounces in their oil changes. :rock:

All that said over the years I tried a few of the "new miracle lube's" and never found anything better or cheaper the Mobil 1 synthetic oil, some seemed as good like Militec 1 which smells like my Mobil 1 0w-40 oil I use in wife's car. When the Militec 1 is gone I put Mobil 1 in the bottles...hummm the both are M-1 when abbreviated. :scratch:

 

Also my RZ-10 started out with Mobil-1 oil and later switch over to Militec 1 after reading about off and one for some time. I saw some at a gun show and bought a bottle, about the first thing I noticed was it smelled just like my Mobil 1 I've used for years in my cars and on my guns. That said a smell test is not a chemical test.

 

I don't get it. Why use anything but what the manufacturer recommends? It is inexpensive and available at every gun shop and online retailer and it works. I have been shooting lead SWC out of my Specialist. I run a wet patch through the barrel first, then a bronze brush wrapped with a small section of Chore Boy five or six times and follow up with dry patches until clean. I gently brush the breach face with a nylon brush. The rest of the gun inside and out just wipes clean. I do not even own any solvent. I even use it on my TRR8 and that just wipes clean. And it smells good too.

 

Old fashion?

Call me old fashion but Hoppes No. 9 for bore cleaning fouling and Triflow for general lubricant. Never has let me down and both are very reasonable in price.