I've been testing tw25 grease for the past 250 rounds and it's been great like eezox & rand clp. Neither harm the duty treatment at all......

 

Does anyone know if I soaked the duty treated slide (for say an hour) in Hoppes No. 9 if that would be a problem?

 

^ I am venturing a guess and saying if it looks ok now, then Ure lucky? Maybe don't do it again? I plan on cleaning it only with oil... And elbow grease.

 

Probably not a good idea. Why would you want to 'soak' the whole slide in Hoppes? A cut up t-shirt and some Hoppes solvent on the bottom of the slide and it'll be good as new in 5 minutes. One thing that I use for those hard to reach places is a dental pick with a patch and solvent.

 

I'm asking about soaking because if that's ok then I have nothing to worry about. I soak barrels and all the small stainless parts while I do the other parts and it makes them a breeze. I typically like to wipe down the slides and other finished parts with Hoppes No. 9 and then clean them up. The Hoppes makes it easy. I'm just hopping someone has experience with this and can let me know I'm good or not.

 

Hoppes9 (regular stuff) is the only solvent I use on my duty treat. Have left it on the slide overnight on some brass marks. No issues at all.

 

Thank you. This is the stuff I need to know.

 

The only stuff I can find locally is Mil Pro 7..

Is it a CLP and not safe for Duty TREAT?

If safe..I plan on using it soon

 

So I had an unfortunate run in with a damp leather holster with my Valor that left the finish mottled grey. I thought no big deal, degrease and reoil. But it didn't bring back the smooth dark black sheen. So what needs to be used to reseal the finish and bring back the deep dark non oily blackness that these have from the factory? I've tried the factory lube that was supplied with the pistol, Frog Lube, Slip2000, Howards feednwax, Silcone, no luck. Some of em will get it close but still easily smudged.

 

This is your your second post in as many threads asking for advice - and you're still experimenting without trying the advice given to you in the first post. What answer are you looking for? And who will you listen to?

 

Degreaser damage is permanant. Try soaking in Kroil for a few days, but you are almost certainly looking at a refinish.

 

All of my 1911's get Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner and Hoppes #9 Solvent for cleaning. Gun Butter is used for all lubrication.

 

As soon as I can find out where to but the FP10 in a bottle. I'm going to get some.
Glad I found the information on here that says Dan Wesson said to not use anything but FP10 before I get my weapon this coming week.

 

It's available from Amazon if you can't find it locally. That's where I ended up getting a bottle.

 

Best testing article I ever read about firearm lube and rust proofing...

Something worth exploring is that all Glocks are treated with a Tennifer process, and the finish has proven damn near indestructible.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546316

 

I have been using fireclean since it has come out with great results so far it's my goto for all my firearms at the moment cleans up quick easy doesn't ruin any finish I've put it on and doesn't stink up the whole house also stays where you put it I've been using it on my pm9 since I broke it in as well as cqb elites and Ed brown with gen 4 coating no issues but can't speak directly for the dan Wesson duty treatment

 

need help with lube question

I have Gibbs lube I got with my Nighthawk and wanted to know if it's OK to use on my new V-Bob black duty finish?
Just picked it up and want to break in per cleaning and break in instructions.

Can't wait to get to the range this weekend.
I've read and watched everything I could and just want to be sure.
Thanks in advance.

 

Just picked it up and want to break in per cleaning and break in instructions.

I've read and watched everything I could and just want to be sure.

So why don't you do just that! Don't your instructions specifically say to use the supplied lube???

 

I would use the supplied DW lube. I really like my Duty Treat and would not take a chance of clouding it using a lube not specifically reccomended. I use FP-10 to clean, lube and I bought the DW finish protectant spray. You get a bottle of that and DW lube for $10.00 now the bad news shipping is $9.00. But great stuff

 

I would use the supplied DW lube.

I agree. When that runs out, get more from DW or get some FP-10. That's all I use to clean, lubricate, and protect my DW's and it works fine.

 

I just don't understand wanting to use a $10 product so bad??:scratch: Given the possible consequences!

It has been stressed on here how important correct lube is, there is even a sticky!

But I guess if someone on the internet said it's ok then that would be Gospel?

 

Go ahead and use your stuff.
If the gun siezes up on you don't complain here.

Bob

 

Reading the manual says use FP-10, Melitec or DanWesson rail lube. I have Melitec-1 for rails.
Says not to use Rem oil, CLP or Hoppe-selite on rails...i got this covered.
I never saw only use supplied lube.

Oil base cleaner(polymer safe) for rest of gun.
solvents can discolor duty finish-Gibb's not a solvent far as I know
Kroil is duty finish safe...not sure what this is but will look up.

Please everyone I'm not looking for harsh comments and I do respect what everyone has to say.
I was just asking a polite question. And yes I did use the supplied Lube. Just asking if the Gibb's would work as well as I've used it on Nighthawks.
I will call Dan Wesson tomorrow and post their comments. If they say no then I will never use it.

 

It's apparent that you'd be happiest hearing that Gibb's will work for Duty Treatment. However, without knowing and trusting someone's personal experience it's an experiment with the possibility of a ruined finish. There are many lubes and solvents that we know will work - and a prudent owner will choose one of them. There is a vast information base regarding acceptable - and non-acceptable - cleaners and lubes in a sticky on the opening DW page. I personally use FireClean with terrific results.

You likely chose DW by following advice - I would continue re: break in and cleaning.

Good luck and enjoy your new gun.

 

It's apparent that you'd be happiest hearing that Gibb's will work for Duty Treatment. However, without knowing and trusting someone's personal experience it's an experiment with the possibility of a ruined finish. There are many lubes and solvents that we know will work - and a prudent owner will choose one of them. TheRe is a vast information base regarding acceptable - and non-acceptable - cleaners and lubes in a sticky on the opening DW page. I personally use FireClean with terrific results.

You likely chose DW by following advice - I would continue re: break in and cleaning.

Good luck and enjoy your new gun.

Sorry everyone and no I didn't want to hear Gigg's will work if it wont.
I'm not sold on the product just know Nighthawk supplies with their guns thats all.
I don't understand why everyone got upset with the question.
All you have to say is no, not sure it's safe so don't use it.

I'm not a person that want's to ruin this fine weapon and was hoping I could ask any question in this forum.

 

We have all seen the threads from guys who did something different and clouded the finish. Ironically Duty Treat probably the most impervious to wear and sensitive to cleaners. None of us want to see that kind of post from you. There are guys here who carry and compete with their DT finished pistols and those guns show no wear after hundreds/thousands of presentations. I think we are all saying the same thing. Stick with what We all know works and use. Again I for one will not test an unknown product on my DWs

 

Thanks for the post...I will listen to members that recommend staying with DW lube.
I was only asking as I have Nighthawk, wilson Combat, Kimber even a Accuarcy International AT and all have their own lubes and cleaners and just made me smile to myself they all need something different.
Anyway thanks again for your post.

 

So, you can "ruin" a DW and the gun can possibly "seize up" if you don't use their "special" lube? Sounds sort of silly to me. And Hoppes Elite oil (or MPRO 7-same thing) will somehow cause rail wear/damage and FP-10 magically won't?

 

Or Dexron ATF.....Salt Free bacon fat, etc..

My apologies to the OP but this whole lube mania has gotten outta hand.

 

So then do whatever you please...

 

OP, here are 24 pages of opinions.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=353412

 

Have we reached a consensus yet?

Hello again.
You said a lot of things in this post and drew some conclusions that are not correct. I'll see what I can do to straighten this matter out for you - and hopefully for the OP:

The Duty Treatment is a ferritic nitro-carburizing process that is, in fact, a form of rust. It's similar chemically to HardHat and Melonite. It provides a blackened surface that is amongst the toughest in the industry. Thousands of draws from Kydex, intensive shooting and even abrasions that would scratch other surfaces will have no negative affect on the DT.
In order to maintain the attractive look of the finish one shouldn't use any chemical that would de-grease it - for example, a cleaner that contains Toluene, brake cleaner and GunScrubber come to mind. Using these solvents/cleaners/lubes should not cause the gun to seize - they will discolor the finish - cosmetically. Different issues may obtain if these chemicals are used on the rails. DW Rail Lube, EB lube, Mobil1, Kroil, Ballistol, FireClean, Hoppe's No. 9, FP-10 and many, many others 'play well' with the Duty Treatment finish. I happen to use FireClean exclusively with great results both as a cleaner and lube. BTW, many chemicals that do not 'play well' with DT - would also remove the bluing from a carbon steel gun.

I hope this clears up some of what appears to be 'silliness' about this issue. I have a V-Bob in Duty Treat and can tell you it's as hard as nails and the best and toughest and most durable finish I've ever encountered in almost 40 years of shooting. After well over 1K rounds through it mine looks as new!

Very well said. Thank you.

I have Gibbs lube I got with my Nighthawk and wanted to know if it's OK to use on my new V-Bob black duty finish?
Just picked it up and want to break in per cleaning and break in instructions.

Truth be told, we don't know. Rub some inside the slide and see. No sarcasm there - you don't know til you try.

 

DW emailed me back

Before emailing me DW checked on Giddl's Lube and said nothing their would harm the gun or duty finish and went on to say it was degreasers and cleaners that are the problems not lubes or oils.
I'm glad DW got back to me so quickly all I can say what a class act DW is and I'm a fan and proud owner of one of their fine weapons.
Just to be safe if I use Gibb's Lube I will apply a small area inside the slide and wait 24 hours to be safe.
Sorry some of you that posted harsh comments but there it is.
And thanks to a few that were kind in their posts.

 

Before emailing me DW checked on Giddl's Lube and said nothing their would harm the gun or duty finish and went on to say it was degreasers and cleaners that are the problems not lubes or oils.
I'm glad DW got back to me so quickly all I can say what a class act DW is and I'm a fan and proud owner of one of their fine weapons.
Just to be safe if I use Gibb's Lube I will apply a small area inside the slide and wait 24 hours to be safe.

Thanks for following up with DW and posting on this thread re: Gibbs Lube. Please let us know how it works out after you try using it.

 

Is the oil supplied with the new DW FP-10 or something different ?
DOGG!!!

 

It's something different - proprietary to DW. The people who use it love it - but there are many other cleaners/lubes that work well with the stainless and Duty Treatment finishes.

I have a good number of handguns and don't want 25 different cleaners and another 25 different lubes. So I settled on FireClean to clean and lube ALL my guns. It's works and makes my life easier.

Read through this thread and you'll come up with lots of suggestions. Have fun with you DW.

 

I was just wondering because I read Keith said to use FP-10
I,m wondering if I should break it in with the supplied oil or FP -10
DOGG!!!

 

Either would work. I haven't taken a poll but it seems from what I read here that most start with the supplied oil - and really seem to like it. Before they had their own mixture they recommended the FP-10 and its a fine product also.