I imagine it would be bad in a cheaper one, but what about a custom one? From what I have read, the cartridge uses the extractor to headspace and this might cause undo stress on the extractor. However, I have not really read anywhere of any actual problems occurring. But then again, I doubt too many custom 1911 owners shoot 40S&W in there 10mm 1911s. I look forward to y'alls responses.
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CadBane7783
I imagine it would be bad in a cheaper one, but what about a custom one? From what I have read, the cartridge uses the extractor to headspace and this might cause undo stress on the extractor. However, I have not really read anywhere of any actual problems occurring. But then again, I doubt too many custom 1911 owners shoot 40S&W in there 10mm 1911s. I look forward to y'alls responses.
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There are some that will tell you: it is no big deal. There are others that will tell you: it will be a great catastrophe.
The problem is both the 40 and the 10mm headspace on the case mouth and that will produce excessive headspace with the 40 in a 10mm chambered firearm. You are relying on the extractor to hold the case tight enough against the breech face to ignite the primer and not let it back partially/completely out of the primer pocket causing leakage/flame cutting and damaging the breech face.
Personally I would grab another barrel and have it fitted to my custom gun. It is your gun do what you think you can get away with.
The problem is both the 40 and the 10mm headspace on the case mouth and that will produce excessive headspace with the 40 in a 10mm chambered firearm. You are relying on the extractor to hold the case tight enough against the breech face to ignite the primer and not let it back partially/completely out of the primer pocket causing leakage/flame cutting and damaging the breech face.
Personally I would grab another barrel and have it fitted to my custom gun. It is your gun do what you think you can get away with.
Why would you, listen to the above comment. You can barrel to 40, and still shoot 10mm if you like.
To clarify; the reason I don't shoot .40 in my 10mm guns is the damage that IS done to the shelf in the front of the chamber where your 10mm headspaces. When those .40 bullets rattle their way forward that tenth of an inch and shave off jacket material on that shelf, after a while, that shelf is going to dull, then later if you shoot some 10mm that have slightly stretched brass, KABOOM!
I've seen this question and the varying opinions before, and my question/answer remains... why? If you want a .40 swap out the barrel.
Why? .40 S&W isn't as effective as 10mm cartridges, unless you're talking about the average, low powered 10mm cartridges loaded down to .40 ballistic ineffectiveness (in which case you're effectively shooting a .40 S&W to begin with). If you like .40 S&W so much, then buy a 1911 chambered for it to begin with. I see zero benefit with shooting .40 S&W out of a 10mm pistol and a whole lot of downsides. That's why I sold off my Sig P229 .40 S&W pistol when I retired and bought a 10mm 1911. No reason I'd ever want to go back to .40 S&W cartridges. It's like those people that have 10mm 1911's and buy .45 ACP magazines because they might feed 10mm cartridges (though not reliably because the magazines were not designed to feed 10mm cartridges). Talk about a solution for a non-existent problem.
If this is an end-of-days, ammo may not be readily available scenario, then shoot all the .40 you need to.
Like Rick says, it can be done in an emergency but isn't something you want to do just because.
Why risk breaking a tuned extractor, or scoring up a perfectly good barrel on a nice pistol, when you can have a .40 barrel fitted for not a whole lot of money?
Put a RIA .38 Super barrel in my Tisas 9mm for all of $79!🤷‍♂️
Put a RIA .38 Super barrel in my Tisas 9mm for all of $79!🤷‍♂️
Yes, it works. Revolvers headspacing with moon clips, fine. With semi-autos my major concern is grossly excessive headspace. This occurs even with the extractor holding the .40 S&W case head close enough for the firing pin to reach the primer. Grossly excessive headspace leads to flattened/flowing primers, cratered primers, pierced primers, primers leaking, etc. The breech face at the periphery of the primer, and firing pin, start to look like the craters of the Moon. Firing pins are cheap, custom slides, not so much. But if beech face damage is of no concern...
It is nearly as cheap to reload 10mm as it is .40...I wouldn't make shooting large volumes of .40 part of the plan of owning a 10mm. I wouldn't bother fitting a .40 barrel either.
I keep my old Glock 22 around to dispose of .40 ammo.
I keep my old Glock 22 around to dispose of .40 ammo.
To me, that would be like buying a new Corvette Z06 and running it on 87 octane WalMart Regular🙄
It is common for decades to shoot 40 in the 10mm. The Glock and cz clones do it with100 percent reliability.
The 1911 works just fine as long as you only chamber by letting the slide go forward in the normal way. If you drop a 40 directly into the barrel, the extractor will push the round forward and the firing pin cannot reach it. If it does fire usually it will not extract because the extractor is not properly in place.
There is zero risk to the properly tuned extractor. There is also no risk of damaging the chamber in that area left vacant by the 40. The reason is shooting jacketed bullets nothing touches. Just a tiny bit of carbon to clean out with a brush. With modern powders like cle there is no copper or carbon build up so it does not matter.
I have both the 40 and 10 barrel for my Taylors it feeds them all just fine. However. If you do not clean your guns the extractor can get gummed up and might not slip over the tim.
This thing about damaging the extractor is a myth as long as the gun is clean. Think about it just slips over the exact same size rim. Then it just holds it from falling forward, nothing more. Take a 40 in your hands and hold it by your fingernails and guess the weight or strength needed to hold the 40 from falling forward due to gravity. No power at all. Then think about the moment of firing....that round is laying in there level. There is basically nothing being held by the extractor because the lateral support and side tension of the barrel is hold the round in. Place. There is no additional wear and tear on the extractor.
I load both my 10 and 40 to 1390-1400fps with 135 grain bullets. Both get about 575 fpe.
I can load the 10 to about 1500 fps but do not
It is fine to shoot 40s in the 10 in the 1911 platform. Zero risk. And it has been common in the Glocks and Cz s for at least 20 years.
There is sometimes an issue with some 10mm magazines that will not feed the 40 depends on the brand
My 40 barrel was under $100 and it is the bull barrel type. I suggest the 40 barrel but it is certainly not necessary. I have yet to find a controlled study to prove me wrong. That said.just buy the 40 barrel.
One last note. The 40 is rated to a 4 inch barrel. The 10 to a 5 inch barrel per Sammi. So when you shoot the 40 in the 5 inch barrel you gain velocity and fpe.
.......
The 1911 works just fine as long as you only chamber by letting the slide go forward in the normal way. If you drop a 40 directly into the barrel, the extractor will push the round forward and the firing pin cannot reach it. If it does fire usually it will not extract because the extractor is not properly in place.
There is zero risk to the properly tuned extractor. There is also no risk of damaging the chamber in that area left vacant by the 40. The reason is shooting jacketed bullets nothing touches. Just a tiny bit of carbon to clean out with a brush. With modern powders like cle there is no copper or carbon build up so it does not matter.
I have both the 40 and 10 barrel for my Taylors it feeds them all just fine. However. If you do not clean your guns the extractor can get gummed up and might not slip over the tim.
This thing about damaging the extractor is a myth as long as the gun is clean. Think about it just slips over the exact same size rim. Then it just holds it from falling forward, nothing more. Take a 40 in your hands and hold it by your fingernails and guess the weight or strength needed to hold the 40 from falling forward due to gravity. No power at all. Then think about the moment of firing....that round is laying in there level. There is basically nothing being held by the extractor because the lateral support and side tension of the barrel is hold the round in. Place. There is no additional wear and tear on the extractor.
I load both my 10 and 40 to 1390-1400fps with 135 grain bullets. Both get about 575 fpe.
I can load the 10 to about 1500 fps but do not
It is fine to shoot 40s in the 10 in the 1911 platform. Zero risk. And it has been common in the Glocks and Cz s for at least 20 years.
There is sometimes an issue with some 10mm magazines that will not feed the 40 depends on the brand
My 40 barrel was under $100 and it is the bull barrel type. I suggest the 40 barrel but it is certainly not necessary. I have yet to find a controlled study to prove me wrong. That said.just buy the 40 barrel.
One last note. The 40 is rated to a 4 inch barrel. The 10 to a 5 inch barrel per Sammi. So when you shoot the 40 in the 5 inch barrel you gain velocity and fpe.
.......
Clearly we are all outclassed by a certain member here. He's done everything and we've done nothing.
My time in this thread is over. You're welcome.
My time in this thread is over. You're welcome.
Clearly we are all outclassed by a certain member here. He's done everything and we've done nothing.
My time in this thread is over. You're welcome.
[/QUOTE]
Welcome for what?
Simply asking you to provide one example of what you stated would eventually happen, nothing more. Just some proof.
Your concept does not make logical sense. Because if that little gap fills with lead or whatever, then since the case headspaces on the mouth, that filled in space will not let the round go into battery. Just like a 357 that you fire a large amount of 38 special in. Eventually, the carbon build up will be so thick, you cannot get the 357 round to go fully into the cylinder.
The same thing happens when you shoot a lot of 22 shorts in a 22 pistol and then try to load 22 long rifle, they will not fit until you clean the gun.
If you are thinking that the buildup is forward of where the normal head space is on the 10mm round, then there cannot be any buildup in that area. The reason is that the forward area is the open barrel, and every 40 cal round fired will be pushing any carbon or any shavings out of the barrel, exactly the same way it does when the 10mm is fired in that same barrel.
If you have any proof of your theory whatsoever, then just post a link to it. There is no reason to get testy about it, it is just a discussion about why not to do something. You made a very clear statement of fact that I disagreed with. I asked you to prove it and your response is a personal attack. So, once again, the simple answer is simply to prove what you stated was a fact. I have cited dozens of people on this forum who have also done it, not one of them has reported the Kaboom that you said eventually would happen.
If you tell people something is fact and you cannot dig up anything to support what you said, then perhaps your statement is not true.
So, if you have zero evidence to prove what you said was fact and want to bow out of the discussion, that tells us what the bottom line is.
Nobody thinks it is a great idea to shoot 40 SW ammo in a 10mm, but telling people for a fact that it will eventually blow up a gun, without any evidence at all, well sir, that is pretty close to BS.
I work on guns or play with them every day and I have never seen it. My gunsmith recommends it for the Tangfolio that he has had at least 15 years, so yes, I think you theory is wrong. All you have to do is provide evidence of one such blown up gun from one credible source. That's all, just one. I did a comprehensive internet search trying to find evidence of you claim because I thought maybe there could be something to it, but could not find any either.
Or if you have zero evidence and still cannot find any, that is fine, just bow out. People will understand.
My time in this thread is over. You're welcome.
[/QUOTE]
Welcome for what?
Simply asking you to provide one example of what you stated would eventually happen, nothing more. Just some proof.
Your concept does not make logical sense. Because if that little gap fills with lead or whatever, then since the case headspaces on the mouth, that filled in space will not let the round go into battery. Just like a 357 that you fire a large amount of 38 special in. Eventually, the carbon build up will be so thick, you cannot get the 357 round to go fully into the cylinder.
The same thing happens when you shoot a lot of 22 shorts in a 22 pistol and then try to load 22 long rifle, they will not fit until you clean the gun.
If you are thinking that the buildup is forward of where the normal head space is on the 10mm round, then there cannot be any buildup in that area. The reason is that the forward area is the open barrel, and every 40 cal round fired will be pushing any carbon or any shavings out of the barrel, exactly the same way it does when the 10mm is fired in that same barrel.
If you have any proof of your theory whatsoever, then just post a link to it. There is no reason to get testy about it, it is just a discussion about why not to do something. You made a very clear statement of fact that I disagreed with. I asked you to prove it and your response is a personal attack. So, once again, the simple answer is simply to prove what you stated was a fact. I have cited dozens of people on this forum who have also done it, not one of them has reported the Kaboom that you said eventually would happen.
If you tell people something is fact and you cannot dig up anything to support what you said, then perhaps your statement is not true.
So, if you have zero evidence to prove what you said was fact and want to bow out of the discussion, that tells us what the bottom line is.
Nobody thinks it is a great idea to shoot 40 SW ammo in a 10mm, but telling people for a fact that it will eventually blow up a gun, without any evidence at all, well sir, that is pretty close to BS.
I work on guns or play with them every day and I have never seen it. My gunsmith recommends it for the Tangfolio that he has had at least 15 years, so yes, I think you theory is wrong. All you have to do is provide evidence of one such blown up gun from one credible source. That's all, just one. I did a comprehensive internet search trying to find evidence of you claim because I thought maybe there could be something to it, but could not find any either.
Or if you have zero evidence and still cannot find any, that is fine, just bow out. People will understand.
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